squeaky rear suspension

Nat · Post by **Nat** » Sat Feb 11, 2012 8:36 pm

I've been noticing the last few times that I've been out in the BX (don't get out in it often enough as I seem to take it apart far to frequently to get to use it, but I digress) that the rear drivers side suspension is squeaky on the rise, ie after a bump (or if you jump on the boot...) it squeaks as it comes back up.

what is this a likely symptom of? its a 4x4 so slightly unique rear subframe and suspension set-up so don't tell me anything I can't replace please...

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Sat Feb 11, 2012 8:55 pm

If its a creaking sound, then its rear arm bearings

Nat · Post by **Nat** » Sat Feb 11, 2012 9:25 pm

is that a problem solved by this and a few hours of graft?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-BX19- ... 627wt_1139

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:46 pm

Yes - I've never attempted to do these myself as they are a bit awkward to do, having a welder helps speed up the process. If you do a search i think there are a few posts on whats involved.

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:07 am

It is one those jobs that I need to do to the 19TRS I have to keep it on the road.
One that I know I can not do myself and if the garage does it will cost an arm and a leg.

I will take a guess that once and if I can get the arm off the car that a ocal engineering firm can do the bearing part a whole lot cheaper than the local scalpers.

Mickey taker · Post by **Mickey taker** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:11 am

take the mother in law out of the boot, that should sort it

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:17 pm

MULLEY wrote:Yes - I've never attempted to do these myself as they are a bit awkward to do, having a welder helps speed up the process. If you do a search i think there are a few posts on whats involved.

A welder?? Hows that then?

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:23 pm

Run a bead of weld around the inside of the outer race; once it cools it will have shrunk and a lot easier to get out. May even pull out with fingers depending on the size of the race, but even if not the weld bead means you have something more to tap against.

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:25 pm

it's all explained in a very good FAQ here

I changed both rear arm bearings on my car last summer, and used the FAQ. I took the arms to a friend with a MIG, and used the technique mentioned a bit further on in the FAQ, here

If you're going to do one bearing, it's worth taking the trouble to do the other one too, you will find it easier as any repeated job is easier to do straight after having done it the first time.

Oilyspanner · Post by **Oilyspanner** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:05 pm

When I did mine I used one of the pivot bolts with the end cut off square as a drift, they were actually pretty easy.

Post by **Defender110** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:59 pm

BX Meteor wrote:If you're going to do one bearing, it's worth taking the trouble to do the other one too, you will find it easier as any repeated job is easier to do straight after having done it the first time.

/\ good advice.