can you run engine with pressure relief screw undone ?

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 1:43 pm

I've got a leak in the rear suspension above the rear exhaust box and I want to turn the car around to be able to work on the back more easily.

LHM pisses out even on low suspension, so can I undo the pressure relief screw and move it like that ??

If not then I'll have to take off the pump belt ffs.

Post by **Defender110** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 3:07 pm

Yes but LHM will p-ss out of the pressure relief valve then; So no!

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 3:32 pm

/\ thanks, I thought so, I'll have to remove the belt then

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:33 pm

I would have thought you will have difficulty moving it on low as the car is probably "grounded" on it's exhaust system.

Sounds like you have a fracture in a front to back HP line where the lines pass over the rear subframe.

My sympathies on tackling that. You need to hinge the subframe down to achieve access otherwise it is almost impossible to thread the new pipe through.

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:10 pm

Yeah you're right, it was difficult to move but the exahust system was not grounded (I fitted it myself a year ago, which is why).

I'm going to reverse it onto ramps and remove the back exhaust box, it's only been on a year and the car has not done many miles so it should come off.

If the pipes are as difficult to do as you say, then I may not bother and sell parts on here and then scrap it.

Mick, you may get a "round thing" (or if you pay for low-loader hire you can have car complete).

EDIT: although, a few years back I did replace the rear brake supply pipe that runs from the front to the T-piece and the other suspension pipes run with it.

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:20 pm

Way2go wrote:You need to hinge the subframe down to achieve access otherwise it is almost impossible to thread the new pipe through.

I did this a year years ago in the street in a half day, I didn't touch the subframe. I did however use kunifer piping (very flexible) rather than a new 'pre bent' pipe.

Actually, once the exhaust was off, i found it pretty straight forward to do. The hardest part was tracking down a pipe flaring tool.

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:34 pm

/\ makes sense from what I remember of doing the rear brake pipe (the one to the 3-way T). When the exhuast was off it was easy to get to all the pipes. The four that run down the side (HC main supply, HC return to reservoir, HC return to brake cyclinder, brake cylinder pressure to rear T-piece) were easy to see and run fairly nicely round the rear sub frame to their respective places.

However, the nasty bit was getting the union undone, I managed to get the pipes going to the rear calipers off the T-piece and then cut the feed that was leaking and put the T-piece in a vice to remove the old union. If the union for the one that is now leaking will not come off in situ on the HC then that will be the mother of all nightmares.

Mickey taker · Post by **Mickey taker** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:45 pm

owning a meteor is such fun isnt it Brian

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:01 pm

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:32 pm

BX Meteor wrote:
However, the nasty bit was getting the union undone,

Erm, i failed on that, actually i need to do something with it.

Ultimately i put an in line union and joined old and new pipe at the splitter.

bx petrol auto saloon · Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:34 pm

Dear Mr Meteor.
I am so sorry to here this Brian

can you get new unions from
Pleiades or Chevronics Brian

Can you let me know what part/s you are worried about Brian

I can see if I can help you " On-line " Brian

Hope this helps.
Vince.

citsncycles · Post by **citsncycles** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:12 pm

My experience of front to rear pipes is that if one has gone, then the rest is probably not far behind. If you're planning to keep the car then it may be worth dropping the subframe and changing them all.

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:07 pm

Then I might get it going long enough to drive it to Syd's

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:10 pm

bx petrol auto saloon wrote:Dear Mr Meteor.
I am so sorry to here this Brian can you get new unions from
Pleiades or Chevronics Brian
Can you let me know what part/s you are worried about Brian
I can see if I can help you " On-line " Brian
Hope this helps.
Vince.

Hi Vince
Not to worry, there are places to get pipes made up
Alternatively I could do what Vanny says, get a flare tool and leave the remnant on the union
When I've got it up on ramps and removed the exhaust,
then when I can see more, I will make up my mind on its fate

thanks, Brian

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:48 pm

This could indeed be a nightmare to fix

Steps taken so far:
1. remove alternator belt and slacken pump belt (easy)
2. turn car around (fraught, as no power steering and no brakes)
3. get car up enough for jacks (annoying, had to tighten pump belt and run engine just enough to lift car to get jacks into position both sides)
4. jack car up on both sides and put axle stands along both sides (easy)
5. remove both exhaust boxes (easy)
6. Unions on the HC look problematic. Leak may be main pressure feed into HC. I'll have to see which ones I can undo. Nightmare

See here for 15 second video (two short clips and two photos thrown together)
First part of video is with engine running (no exhaust boxes) with suspension set to low

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can you run engine with pressure relief screw undone ?

can you run engine with pressure relief screw undone ?

Can you run engine with the pressure relief screw undone ?

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