Leaky heater tap?

[oilybox]

Okay, after 2500 odd miles in my recently acquired BX Meteor Diesel, I have a very tiny leak above the pedals, only enough to dampen the rubber mat, barely noticeable loss from in radiator filler next and my heater tap won't turn onto maximum, or minimum, just part way between these. When set to warm is when the leak occurs, but not when cold. Tim mentioned another chap who could advise me, but I didn't manage to catch him. Is this an easy fix? Are the taps repairable? Or is it a new one/adapt and improvise ?

[mat_fenwick]

This might be useful...

[pmh]

And if like me you missed the embedded link in the first place try

http://www.bxproject.co.uk/phpbb3/viewt ... f=2&t=3771

[oilybox]

Well, not as bad as a Daewoo Matiz!.... Did a matrix replacement on one just before I got my BX, it was a total nightmare, I came to the conclusion a Matiz is built around it's matrix!.... Now is the tap easy to remove from the BX?... I'm guessing it'll make things easier for my 6'1" frame if I remove the drivers seat to make access a little easier....?

[Vanny]

The key things to remember are;

1) The leak will come from one of three places;

• The union between the heater core/matrix and the tap

• The union between the tap and the pipes to the engine bay

• The seals around the tap operating shaft

You need to identify where the leak comes from and that will determine how hard life is about to become.

2) There are two seals between the heater core and tap, these can be changed with the very minimum of effort with the tap in place.

3) A leak from the tap operating shaft is near impossible to fix. The shaft has a double O-ring seal on it, they are held in place by a cap plastic welding into the tap block.

4) The tap shouldn't leak. It will only leak once it has been forced, usually as a result of silting up following the use of radiator or head gasket sealant. You need to ensure you resolve the underlying problem first.

Once forced, the tap body is distorted which starts the leak, usually only a small and occasional leak. To resolve this sort of leak you really need to remove the tap, strip it down and reassemble probably with a copious helping of sealant.

5) To remove the tap you need to undo the hidden bolt between pipe union and HVAC, disconnect the engine side pipes, the linkages to the tap, and the 4 bolts holding the heater core to the tap body. You will need to remove the two screws holding the heater core to the HVAC and slide the heater core out about 4" to allow the tap to be removed.

6) Access can be improved by removing the steering wheel, removing the upper steering column (including indicator and wiper stalks) and ultimately taking an angle grinder to the car en mass (trust me, there is a point you WILL want to do this.

Personally I've never needed to remove the seat, but then i'm a short arse!

[mat_fenwick]

There are two seals between the heater core and tap, these can be changed with the very minimum of effort with the tap in place.

...but as mentioned on the other side, they (95610724) would seem to be NLA according to my local dealer (who also said they've NEVER ordered them in )

[mat_fenwick]

taking an angle grinder to the car en mass (trust me, there is a point you WILL want to do this.

After doing the job last night I can agree 100%! Removal isn't too bad - it's putting it back in with the control cables that's the 'fun' bit. I would suggest pulling the tap out as far as you can with the cable still attached, then swapping it over onto the replacement tap before wriggling the tap (with a kind of rotating motion) back into position.

Removal of the seat made it slightly easier but I removed my spare one without bothering so is doable either way. Tap to matrix seals might be an issue though if they really are NLA - I suspect a standard round section O ring if thick enough to seal, will be too thick to fit in the groove. The correct ones are more like a rubber band in section.