16v Cambelt change

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 9:04 am

There's only two camshafts to break this time..

I've read the instructions : stepped pins and Seemtronic 87 tensioning device, neither of which I've got. Any advice? Leave it, or proceed with a strong heart?

Also, while I'm here, any advice on bleeding the cooling system once I've shafted the engine?

Thanks again V-fans

Mike E (uk) · Post by **Mike E (uk)** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:18 am

Bleeding the coolent system is easy on this car, there is a header tank to top up, and a few bleed screws to let the air out.

I doubt you will have any problems here.

I would flush out all the old coolent 1st if it is more than a year old, as it looses its anto-corrosion properties.

There are some good notes by Alan S on the cambelt.

You don't need the tool and remember to remove the set pins!

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:42 am

Thanks Mike. Where do I find these notes by Alan S? That would be a help.

Re the pins, is it imperative that I have exactly the same stepped pins as pictured in the Haynes font of wisdom?

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:56 am

There's two tensioners on the 16v, so you can get the timing out of sync unless they are adjusted equally. I use the manifold to exhaust bolts as my 'stepped pins' as they are a good fit.
I don't know whether this is classed as a bodge or not, but what I do is leave one tensioner in position, and slacken off the other (the easier one to access). With the cam locking pin removed on the same side as the slackened tensioner, I simply adjust the tension until the locking pin fits back in perfectly again.
To lock the crank I use a tight fitting bolt laid in the slot. I've only done it a couple of times on the 205, never on the BX but would hope there's more access in the BX engine bay!

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:57 am

I would strongly recommend getting some pins made up.

The haynes 'schematic' for the pins is wrong and if you use it to make up the pins, then you'll end up with two lovely pieces of scrap.

Not at home at the moment, but i'll get you some pics of the pins when i can. There was a group buy on the BX16v forum a few years ago so quite a few of us have them. There well worth getting made up, and very simple, 10 minutes on a metal working lathe.

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:02 pm

Spoox sell the pins;

http://www.spoox.co.uk/catalog/product_ ... d0fb6e102e

have a search on the BX16v Forum and there are quite a few posts on it.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:19 pm

Thankyou for all the replies. I'll invest in some of those pins from Spoox ( anything to do with the CIA?) then as I haven't got a lathe.

How about Haynes insisting in using this special machine to fine set the tension? I'll have a look over at the 16v club as well.

Post by **docchevron** » Tue May 01, 2012 2:52 am

Pins really are a must.
SEEM meters are all well and good, I actually have one, but it's an entire PITA to get it on the belt with the engine in the car, and I've always used the old twist method. Longest run of belt should twst 45° under firm thumb / finger pressure.
You'll know if it's to tight as the belt will howl, if it's too slack it'll slap the cover.
To be honest it's easier to do a valver than a Diesel. Once you've done it once you'll find it piss easy next time.
I usually tension up the rear firs, thent he front one, and 99 times out of 100 with the tension on the belt ok the pins are a perfect sliding fit. This is quite important. If they are tight, then you'll need to move the tensioners which will alter the cam timing a tad until the tension is ok and pins slide like a nuclear knife through butter.