rear arm bearings.

[tim]

Back again.... the rear exhaust section rusted out on the Red One and while it was up on the ramps, both myself and Mothperson couldn't help noticing that the lh rear wheel looked like it had a bit of a tilt to it. I always intended to do them this summer but with a trip to Wales pending I didn't fancy leaving it any longer so I ordered up a couple of bearing kits and attacked the job yesterday.
I decided to do the rh wheel first as this looked OK and therefore might be easier.... I printed off the two articles on this forum and got stuck in. No real problems but a few points that might be of use. The caliper definitely doesn't need to come off and can simply be tied out of the way. Why make work? The rear strut pin was rusted in place but I managed to get the little sod out in the end; however, the steel pivot that the pin goes through and which sockets into to rear arm had rusted firmly in place. I didn't realise that the bolt that secures the arm had a nut on the inside. A deep socket was suggested but I found an open-ender much easier, and a suitable length of steel bar under it locked it in place while I undid the bolt.
Off it came, and onto the bench. Jeez...hit me with a kipper and call me Mary.....what a state. The outer bearing had broken up totally, and out came a handful of burnt rollers followed by bits of cage. No grease was visible anywhere, and though the inside bearing was in one piece, that was all that could be said for it.. Both outer races drifted out easily, all you need is a decent length of steel rod with a good crisp edge on it. The outside outer race came out in three pieces. Rebuilding it was easy, and I found the old shim and was able to reuse it. And this one was the one that LOOKED ok from the outside.....
Moving on to the lh side I found that in fact it had been rebuilt quite recently in mileage terms, though seven years standing hadn't done it any favours. And no shim... I had a few shims from Triumph m/c engines and was able to get one to fit with a lot of filing. How essential ARE they?? Anyway, it all went back together OK. The only silly problem was the way the lh brake pipe runs, it was almost impossible to get the arm back in without snagging the pipe every time. Scream, rage, abuse etc. Fortunately I could call upon my Beautiful Assistant to hold the thing out of the way.
So moral, do yours before it's too late, and evidently appearances can be deceptive. I suspect the real problem is the seal at the end not doing its job properly and letting in water and salt. Also, taper rollers in that situation don't roll; they can't clean themselves.....
Lastly much to my amazement I was able to get all the bolts undone on the splash plates and remove them. Question - how essential are they??? They are pretty rusty and flaky but with a bit of work I can recon them. Do I need them? Citroen obviously thought so.

[Mothman]

Well done bud, sounds like a job well done.

Can we have a go at mine soon?

Andy

[Dollywobbler]

Is it possible to fit a grease nipple to them? Our Mini has some very convenient grease points for the rear suspension arms. When I got The Green Tiger gone, I was appalled at the state of the bearing. No wonder it was creaking!

[tim]

There's some talk of this in the 'archive'. I don't think it would help much but it is probably technically quite easy. But you can pump in as much grease as you like, it has to go into the bearing a full 360 degrees and in my experience this simply doesn't happen; the grease finds an easier way out, usually past the seal. Also, grease has a limited lifespan and the only sensible option is to strip the thing every so often, and clean and repack the bearings by hand.
I forgot to add that it may just be imagination but I am sure the back end goes up faster now, and the ride is a bit less bumpy. OK Andy, you're next.....

[MULLEY]

You're not imagining things, because you've done the rear arm bearings, you now have more travel & therefore a smoother ride

[tim]

fair 'nuff. But only one was truly stuffed - amazing what a difference this makes. Note to puddlehead who worked on the lh side; what on earth made you think that the other side could be ignored if that side had fallen to bits?

[MULLEY]

TBH, unless both sides were leaning, most would presume that as long as there was no creaking sounds, then if it was just one side, the other good side should be ok. Was there any creaking sounds emanating from the non leaning wheel?

[tim]

Not a creak to be heard - and also the leaning wheel was actually in better shape inside.

[MULLEY]

Fair enough, it probably makes sense to do both sides if one is looking knackered as you've suggested & have found out.