Suspension leaning to one side (EDIT - failed drop link)

[mat_fenwick]

On the way to the ICCCR yesterday I rounded a LH bend fairly quickly, and there was a large bang, and the car started leaning over to the right at the rear. I made it the remaining 100 or so miles, as I could see no visible problems, and it rolled a lot more than usual going round any LH bends. It's probably sitting about 2" lower at the O/S rear corner, and correspondingly higher at the N/S front.

The anti roll bar doesn't look twisted, and both clamps were tight although there was a little bit of play between clamp and ARB - fixed with a shim. Got some spheres at the show and fitted them but the problem remains (but may be slightly better?) The pushrod from the suspension cylinder feels to be intact on both sides, and if you put it into high it sits level. No loss of fluid.

Previously when the pushrod has snapped the car has still sat level, but when put into high the piston is pushed past the hydraulic seal, allowing the return pipe to see full system pressure. Suspension is supple and not stuck.

I really can't see what the problem could be - any ideas? Back out now to have another look...

[sdelasal]

just thinking aloud here....As the car comes to a steady height, so the rear height corrector must be happy. The car has a lean on normal setting but is okay on service high setting - so I'd be looking for something that is bent/twisted/damaged in the normal position but okay on high setting ... Is the hight corrector even used in hi position ? maybe the suspension cylinders just get full bore pressure until the end stops. Broken anti roll bar would be the obvious one!

[mat_fenwick]

Broken ARB was actually my first thought! But it's definitely not broken, although I can't say for certain it's not twisted.

Again thinking out loud, any time the suspension is not level, the ARB must have a (permanent or temporary) twist in it. I suppose if I jacked it up and allowed the wheels to dangle, if they sit at the same height the ARB must be OK - if still different heights then the ARM must have a permanent twist in it.

It seems very unlikely that it would twist rather than break though!

[Tim Leech]

Just a suggestion but do you think the arm bearings given way? I did notice how close the nsr alloy sits the to wheelarch itself to one of the gang.

[mat_fenwick]

You're not the only one to suggest that, but I replaced them about 20k miles ago, and when I was changing the spheres today I checked to see if there was any undue resistance to movement of the arm. I've had to tease out the rear wings slightly, so it's possible I've given more clearance one side than the other.

[MULLEY]

Is it possible that the rear subframe has cracked/split due to corossion?

[mat_fenwick]

Ah.



This may have something to do with it. After chatting over with Doc he mentioned he had a drop link fail after 200 miles, with similar results to mine except he went off the road. Mine lasted 2000 miles and a month to the day, so not very happy really.

So instead of the rear O/S being too low, it was actually the front N/S that was too high (as it no longer has any link to the height corrector so is trying to extend fully). I have a used spare, but bed is looking more appealing than fitting that in the rain at this hour...

I had already checked subframe mounts and the like, as that had also crossed my mind!

[Defender110]

That's just pure crap, I've had this so many times with aftermarket parts they are simply not built to standard which is why I always try to buy genuine or OEM parts where still available.

[Tim Leech]

That would do it!

[MULLEY]

Mat, can you remember what manufacturer made that part? I want to avoid buying anything like this Glad you've found the issue though & at least its easily repaired

Regarding warranties on parts, is there ever any comeback when something like this fails?

[themildbunch]

ooh, nasty...

I just replaced these on my auto and got the last in stock at our local GSF, one was in a TRW branded box, the other in a First Line box, so far so good after 1000 miles - where were these from?

About a year back I bought a pair from AEP, unbranded bags, and while torquing up the link to the wishbone the thread gave up on the link!

A sticky list of better quality / OEM for BX parts or even anecdotal evidence would be good...

[mat_fenwick]

I initially bought a pair from AEP; one was a First Line boxed part, the other unboxed and rattling around in the packaging (minus any locknuts). More concerning to me was the fact they were two different lengths:


So I got a refund, and bought some Veco parts from my local factors (who normally deal in Motaquip, but got these in for me).

They look remarkably similar to Doc's failure, although his came in a Lemforder box.


Just phoned the dealer - NFP As for comeback - I WILL be getting a refund for the failed one although I suspect I can't legally claim a refund for the one that has not yet failed. I will be changing both as soon as I can find better quality ones.

[Defender110]

From your picture the top First Line boxed part looks a far superior quality to the other and the ones you have subsequently fitted, perhaps try First line if OEM / Genuine are NLA?

[mat_fenwick]

After a bit of phoning round dealers, I found two who each had one in stock. £80 each though, but managed to haggle down to just over half that! Agreed that the First Line part looked better quality, so that probably would have been my next choice.

[MULLEY]

£80 each, holy cow, i've just fitted a genuine citroen one to the txd & then found out the one i took off was ok, i think i'll put the old one back on & put the genuine one in a glass case to appreciate in value for my retirement fund....