Speedo head

ghaddon1701 · Post by **ghaddon1701** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:03 pm

I have spent much of the afternoon disassembling the dashboard pod on my GTI. I managed to get the speedo itself out on its own in the hope I may be able to grease the speedo drive. It feels a bit stiff turning with an appropriately sized screwdriver bit. However after disassembling it all I find that you can only really grease is from the speedo cable pushes into the back of the speedo. I have tried injecting grease in to the head. I think I have made it a bit smoother but I am still not convinced it is as smooth as it could be. I have managed to source a speedo cable from a forum member and I don't really want to ruin it by using it with a stiff speedo, considering cables are now difficult to source. Does anybody have any advice on how to grease the speedo head? Or does anybody have a replacement speedo? Thanks.

Regards Graham

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 3:32 am

I don't think grease is the best idea. A light instrument oil is best. I took the exterior off the speedo to expose the works and lubricated it with 3in1 on the boss and in particular the pawls and gears of the Odometer. Sorted all the noise and it's been running quiet and smooth for a couple of years now.

I also filled the disconnected connection cup of the speedo cable with 3in1 and allowed that to run down the cable overnight as I thought that would be a good preventative maintenance approach too.

Geoffrey Gould · Post by **Geoffrey Gould** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 12:53 pm

Hi grease anywhere near a speedo head is a Bad idea. The advice is withdraw the cable, if possible, from the inner wipe clean with non fluffy cloth, lightly grease the cable apart from the 8" next to the speedo head and if you must lube the cable next to the head use sewing machine oil or 3 in 1 sparingly. A drop only on the bush that the cable goes into is OK don't flood it.
If grease works its way into the head all sorts of horribleness will occur.
Cheers.
G.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:05 pm

A related topic. I've got to do this on mine as it's quite 'ticky'. I've also got an issue with the trip reset, which doesn't. Is there a known cure? This job will also involve replacing all of the bulbs while I've got it all apart.

Geoffrey Gould · Post by **Geoffrey Gould** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:42 pm

Hi well the ticking and no reset may be connected, as sometimes it does not fully reset and the teeth on the 'gears' click against each other, it may be worth giving the reset button a few good prods to see if the noise stops. You may find that it is quite simply worn out.It is possible to replace the trip/mileage mechanism if you have a spare other wise junk speedo.
I must say that I am my own worst enemy as I zero the trip when I fill up with fuel so it takes a fair pounding.A paper and pen may purlong it's life, nah I would forget.
Cheers.
G.

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 3:06 pm

Wouldn't lithium grease be safter to use on the speedo cogs?

Geoffrey Gould · Post by **Geoffrey Gould** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 8:07 pm

Hi, lithium grease wouldn't be bad as such the problem is the grease getting where it shouldn't be. There is no mechanical link between the speedo cable and the rest of the bits and pieces, it's all done by a drum/disc and one being dragged round by the other, by eddy currents. Its almost like a slipping clutch sort of, wear in the part driven by the cable can mean that there is mechanical contact which upsets everything, grease should it get where the gap (very small.) in the drive is causes drag etc.
Not going into great detail but that is the bare bones of it. It is almost like a watch, the tolerances are quite small and critical.
Cheers.
G.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 3:11 am

MULLEY wrote:Wouldn't lithium grease be safter to use on the speedo cogs?

Probably the worst stuff you could use as the odometer drums are not shielded from the cogs. You would likely see bits of that whitish-grey crap deposited on your numbers when viewed from the driving seat.

3in1 is transparent, does the job well (tried & tested) and is more likely to cure a long term problem than cause one. If any accidentally does get on the eddy current cup (shouldn't normally happen though) it will probably dissipate before long (may get a higher than actual speed reading for a while until it does).

ghaddon1701 · Post by **ghaddon1701** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:26 pm

I have cleaned the grease away and used 3 in 1 as suggested. I have re-assembled with a good second hand cable and it seems to work ok. Speedo needle wobbles a little at lower speed sometimes but that is possibly the cable. Thanks all.

Regards Graham

Birotor · Post by **Birotor** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:24 pm

I thought we knew the answer to the wobble with the brazing rod insert at the gear box?

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:46 pm

Cheers for the info on not using lithium grease

I won't try any of that if i have this problem.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:44 am

MULLEY wrote:Cheers for the info on not using lithium grease I won't try any of that if i have this problem.

It's strange stuff that lithium grease. I bought some way back as an aerosol when the front height corrector linkage was playing up as I thought that would sort it. It didn't so bought some 3in1 penetrating spray which did. Sprayed again with the lithium for after coating and good measure.

The whitish grey look didn't matter on the HC linkage but I didn't like the look of it on the door hinges and staybar.

RamoBX19s · Post by **RamoBX19s** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 3:09 am

I have removed and refitted several cables in a 16TRS, 19GT and the 19TRI Estate. My observations and knowledge for what its worth. It is possible top replace just the speedo part of the instrument cluster. When you have it accessible/apart fit all new light bulbs. Re the mechanisim - Record the mileage if you are changing it. You need to be able to track the timing belt life. Definitely do not get oil near the discs and definitely dont use a spray lube on the mechanisim. To see if the speedo is working (with access to the back of the panel) simply place the tip of a small 3mm tip screwdriver in the drive and spin it. The speedo should kick up about 10km/hr if spun in the correct direction. If it does that it works. If the speedo is erratic in opereation, its almost certainly the cable or the cable to speedo connection sticking.
A common fail area is the plastic coupling of the cable at the speedo end . A plastic slide ring (part of the coupling) locks the cable to the speedo. This is often broken by mishandling/alignment problems. Sometimes the coupling seperates from the cable. It isnt very noticeable and if the coupling is not 100% then the speedo cable will disengage.
The BX19 TRI ( RH Drive) cable is in two parts. Its held into the gearbox by a rubber taper pin. If you are buying a new cable purchase a new o-ring for the bottomeend. Its a B to get at and align the cable to gearbox. The cables pass through the firewall per a very tight and tough rubber grommet. A small amount of silicone lube on the cable will help fit and remove cable and grommet. Make sure that you tie a stron string or electrical wire to the cable being removed so that the news cable can be reinstalled without removing the dash (19TRI).
I have recently received a retail quote for $88 in Australia for the bottom cable. Top cable not available - Cable repairers can probably make up cables as the end fittings are common with 80-90s Peugeots. I anyone has a good scource of BX Speedo cables in the UK please let me know
Cheers
Ramo

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