Oil Pressure switch repair

[kiwi]

After establishing the Oil Leak is located on that switch on the front of the engine above the Oil Filter on the TZS, the next question is how!

If as I suspect it is the gasket seal does anyone know (before I take this thing off) what size the washer is or would I need to replace the whole switch. The sensor is reading so dont think it is faulty just leaky.

[citronut]

i dont think the switch is repairable as they are a sealed unit, and they usually leak around the base of the terminal,
so it makes the switch terminal

regards malcolm

[Jaba]

Not sure the pressure switch actually has a washer. Its a 10mm thread anyway. If you are talking about the oil pressure warning sensor then that is 16mm and does have a washer I think.

[Birotor]

Classic item to fail - GSs as well. I always carry a spare on rallies.

[smiffy1071]

Not sure the pressure switch actually has a washer. Its a 10mm thread anyway. If you are talking about the oil pressure warning sensor then that is 16mm and does have a washer I think.

The Oil pressure light "switch" is the M16 unit. These should have a copper washer, but I just use a dowty washer, which is a washer with a bonded rubber seal in it.
The Oil pressure gauge "sender" is the M10 unit, and again these mostly use a copper washer.

[RamoBX19s]

Gday Mate
If there is an oil leak at the switch replace it. They fail at the diaphram. In Melbourne they can be supplied by European Auto Imports. ( see internet )

Details from my BX19TRI records

Oil leak from pressure Sw Sw citroen Pn 96 052 662
EAI # P113114 P405>93 $18.00 Australian
Sump & Press Sw Gasket(Crush Type)
Citroen Gasket 77 03 062 062
Crush Type Sump Seal EAI P/n 16430 fitted 2 $1.16
If you have plenty of moolah also replace the
Oil Gauge sender EAI # P113169 $125.28

If your car is EFI you will need to remove the Alternator & induction manifold.
mark the injector wires #1 cyl is at the distributor end.
Alternator removal - Disconnect battery first. Mark the alternator wires. Bat+ and Field and sketch where they go. Loosen off the belt & disconnect from pulley. You need a spline type tool to fit into the head of the stepped Alternator Retention Bolt. Once you have it moving ( put the slined bit into a ring spanner ), you will after a few turns be able to get a bigger spanner on the head. Undo the bolt as far as you can and the Alternator will be abble to be pulled off. Do not over tighten the bolt when refitting.
If necessary remove the Injector Rail and Induction Manifold.
Undo the leaking switch with an open ended wrench. Fit the new one with a new crush washer.

When refitting the Induction manifold, you will have to replace
Induction Manifold gasket. EAI P/n P034891 A$ 10.80 Qty 1.
Injector Gaskets-O-Rings P/n P198125 Qty 8 A$7.85EA Maybe you can reuse these.
On refitting make sure the surfaces are spotless, suck out any coolant from the headand use a little Blue Max only where the head - coolant openning meets the manifold- each side of the gasket.

Caution:- When refitting the induction manifold - make doubly sure the lead to the starter solenoid wire ( spade connector ) is firmly on the male solenoid connector. It is easily pulled off during the above.

The gauge sender has its own gasket. The switch uses the crush washer.

The AEI parts supplied are also are suitable for the Puegeot 405 - same 159 engine.

That should assist. better late than never
Cheers
Ram

[kiwi]

Update on this

No washer!

The fault as the garage suspected was with the upper part of the sitch/sensor what ever you want to call it. Basic description is to say the green plastic cap was leaking. So swaped it with one I found in my box of bits n pieces. Seems to be working fine.