Pedal Box replacement

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Dominic
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Pedal Box replacement

Post by Dominic »

Found a pedal box in a junk yard to replace my collapsed one, came out without too much drama, despite the donor car wearing an Alfa and an Allegro on its roof. However, putting it into my car looks potentially like a mission of biblical proportions.
I can see (just) a rubber boot in the engine bay/bulkhead which covers the clutch cable actuation lever, and I'm guessing that the way forward is to unhitch the cable at the clutch end to create some slack, and then somehow manipulate the pedal lever end into place from above (probably even less accessible from below), Anyone got any useful shortcuts?
Dom
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mat_fenwick
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Re: Pedal Box replacement

Post by mat_fenwick »

What engine do you have? I've only experience of a TD, where access in the engine bay is tight. The plastic clip at the pedal end is difficult to pop back on after it's been removed once. I didn't find it possible to fit the cable to the pedal assembly fully and then fit that to the car - I had to do it down the back of the engine. With hindsight I'd have shifted the engine forwards slightly as it's only one mount to undo.
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Dominic
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Re: Pedal Box replacement

Post by Dominic »

Its a TDZ, removal of sundry pipes might help. The old box came off a partially dismantled GTI, and looked a doddle!
Dom
91 TZD
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'12 DS5
83 Moto Morini 500
70 Fiat 850 Spider
Anything that turns money into noise...
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mat_fenwick
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Re: Pedal Box replacement

Post by mat_fenwick »

Taking off the intercooler helps, as does (IIRC) removing the pipe from intercooler to turbo. I just about managed without though. I wrote a bit about the job on my blog so will dig that out and see whether there are any tips.

EDIT - Here you go. No real tips though, but you can share my misery...
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1993 1.9 TZD Turbo Estate
1996 3.9 V8 Discovery
1993 VW LT35 campervan
1985 Hyundai Stellar V8
2016 Hyundai iLoad
Dominic
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Re: Pedal Box replacement

Post by Dominic »

Hi Matt. Thanks so much for the link. Inspired by your pic of the clutch cable inside the cabin, I unhitched the gearbox end of the cable, hauled through about 6 inches into the cabin, and attached it to the pedal assembly - easy peasy. No need to fiddle about under the bonnet at the bulkhead. The most time-consuming part was taking the air box and associated pipes off to get at the clutch actuation lever. Thanks again!
Dom
91 TZD
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'12 DS5
83 Moto Morini 500
70 Fiat 850 Spider
Anything that turns money into noise...
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nige
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Re: Pedal Box replacement

Post by nige »

glad you got it sorted, i had the same prob on my bx for years, i welded up the pedal box - it never was right, then one day did the scrappy thing like you and not had probs since - they are a bit flimsey :(
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Re: Pedal Box replacement

Post by Defender110 »

Dominic wrote:Hi Matt. Thanks so much for the link. Inspired by your pic of the clutch cable inside the cabin, I unhitched the gearbox end of the cable, hauled through about 6 inches into the cabin, and attached it to the pedal assembly

Great tip =D> It's also a good idea if changing the cable to make sure it is the right length first before fitting it to the pedal box end isn't it Mat? :lol:
Kevan
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mat_fenwick
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Re: Pedal Box replacement

Post by mat_fenwick »

:oops: Oh, the benefit of hindsight! Fitting the cable with slack pulled through is ideally what I'd have done too, but the (pattern) cable didn't have a lock ring, and the lock ring on the old cable didn't want to stay put upon re-fitting - while you're trying to put the pedal box back in the cable is trying to bend very sharply which just pops it off again.
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Re: Pedal Box replacement

Post by KevR »

I had the same problem with the lock ring - my replacement had one but it was rubbish. IN the end I did without - so long as a helper keeps some tension on the other end of the cable while you fit the pedal box, and you keep tension one while you fit it to the gearbox end, once in place it stays in place.
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