front suspension arm removal

[nige]

trying to replace suspension rubbers on the front suspension arm - need to remove the threaded bar, the nut in the attached pic is seized on to the threaded bar. Have tried the double nut method on the end of the thread - no go, cant get an angle grinder in to cut the nut, think its too big for a nut splitter, have tried chisles, heat, useizing fluid am at the stage of welding a nut to one end of the thread. Have noticed though on the thread where the arrow is pointed there is a groove in the thread like it has a woodruff key? so didnt want to go down the welding route just yet..

any ideas???!!! thanks again

[mat_fenwick]

Only thing I can think of is to drop the subframe for better access. You may be able to drill and weaken the nut so it splits, but access will still be a problem. I've been lucky on the ones I've done as I've managed to loosen the back nut before the front one cracked undone.

[nige]

thanks Mat, i had considered dropping the subframe, would get some good access for a slit disc on a angle grinder at the nut, would have to look at what dropping the subframe entails - wouldn't fancy undoing all the hydraulics, although i think they may only be plastic clipped into the frame, off memory is dropping the subframe a nightmare?

[citronut]

no they are not keyed,

try Mat's idea of drilling holes along one face of the nut this should release it,

hope you didnt melt anything you wished you shouldn't have whilst you were heating the nut up

the safety valve is just behind that nut and it has a plastic end in it

regards malcolm

[nige]

cheers guys, will drill the nut, should be able to it without dropping the subframe with a long drill bit. Car still drives fine so am assuming still all ok

[KevR]

Have you undone the front nut first? If so do it back up again... very tight. I've so far always managed to get the rear nut undone, but they've always been VERY tight to get moving initially, then easy once started. You need a really good-fitting spanner and a lot of leverage to get it cracked.

[nige]

guys.. i have to admit i ran out of time and patience it had to go a fantastic old school garage we have up here. Big up to Riverford motors Conon Bridge near Dingwall a real old fashioned proper garage. In the end they had to drill/grind the nut off, however the threaded bar was stuck fast, so the had to weld a tool on that could be pulled out with a puller.. and of course the bar isnt somthing thats readily available so they had to fabricate a new one. At the same time they spotted a weep of LHM from a pipe - sorted that, handbrake was sticky sorted that, brake sliders were stick sorted that too.. am delighted, and even more as it passed the MOT with flying colours this evening!

[JayW]

The bar is high-tensile alloyed steel (10.9 eqv), did they fashion a replacement from similar or just regular 8.8? If it was 8.8 i'd have concerns about long-term durability. Always worth checking!

[nige]

to be honest i don't want to know the answer to this!!

[Defender110]

. am delighted, and even more as it passed the MOT with flying colours this evening!

well done Nige, enjoy mate, I can't see why it would need to be any more than 8.8 I'm sure it will be fine and last the course.

[citronut]

as nout rotates around the pivot pin it should not wear at all,

the arm just flex's on the bush's

regards malcolm