Bit O Welding - Best Course

[citsncycles]

I suspect when you remove the sill trim, you may find the rear of the sill is shot - fairly straightforward to repair if so, although if it's also spread into the inner sill you may have to remove the tank. I suspect if you cut back as much as I tend to those bottom 2 holes are going to turn into 1 big hole. That top one looks like it's just starting spreading into the outer wing too, and that you are going to have to at least let in a new piece along the leading edge.

For visible areas, I always try to butt weld the joins between new metal and old, as it's easier to beat into shape afterwards if you distort it when welding. If you can't, joddle the joint so it looks flush when you've positioned it, you can then locate it with either some proper pins designed for the task or some self tappers. If you can't exactly match the original shape, indent is better than proud, as it can be skimmed over afterwards.

I can't remember for certain, but you may be able to reach that top hole from in the wheel arch aswell, which would at least make it easier to paint afterwards.

[citronut]

i think you will need to at least release the front end of the wing body kit section, so you dont melt it whilst welding,

i agree with Mat on the drilling the spot welds out, at least down the vertical return of the rear wing, then cit out the rust from the shut vertical section,

im certtain you will be able to attack it as three separate repairs, i belive this would be the easiest and neatest repair,

regards malcolm

[BX Bandit]

Thanks guys. I must admit Malcolm, that initially I thought it would be a 'panel' job,but looking at it again, doing it 3 sections will have the benefoit of retaining 'integrity' to the area, but possibly at the compromise of reduced access to the rust behind.

Citsncycles, mostly, I've overlapped welds and occaisionally butt jointed (which I find more pleasing aesthetically, but damned harder prep wise). When you say " let in a new piece along the leading edge" where exactly do you mean. I know it's hard without actually being by the car!

The one thing that consistently puts me off this work is the difficulty in ensuring that the weld and surrounding area wont rust away again in about a year (or less). Some of these places seem impossible to waxoyl in the first place, let alone treating a weld!

[citronut]

The one thing that consistently puts me off this work is the difficulty in ensuring that the weld and surrounding area wont rust away again in about a year (or less). Some of these places seem impossible to waxoyl in the first place, let alone treating a weld!

if you look at the end of the door sill in the rear wheel arch there is a metal bung stuck in place with sealer, if you pull that out you have easy access to weather proof you work after wards

regards malcolm

[docchevron]

whats the timescale on this one mate?
I have a few BX's to break up at the farm, some of which have perfect wings / innerwings / doorshut / sills etc etc etc...

I have 2 weeks off in May too, if it'll keep that long.
I'm quite good at getting sill skirts off without mullering them too. And wings etc..

[BX Bandit]

Timescale? Not sure.
Plan A is to resurect the valver by May and take my time doing the white TGD.
Plan B is to do the White TGD by May and the valver can take as long as needed.
But, the white one will have to be the workhorse and not need welding every MOT, hence my desire to be thorough and push the valver through for the summer months and take her off the road by winter for a thorough dose of tlc.

[citsncycles]

Citsncycles, mostly, I've overlapped welds and occaisionally butt jointed (which I find more pleasing aesthetically, but damned harder prep wise). When you say " let in a new piece along the leading edge" where exactly do you mean. I know it's hard without actually being by the car!

Sorry, I meant the leading edge of the outer wing. I suspect that once the spot welds are drilled out you'll find that the flange you then peel back will be very thin, and if you're very unlucky it'll have started speading back along the inside of the panel.

[BX Bandit]

/\ Ah I've got you. That very joint has been 'repaired' previously, so you may well be correct. I think there you've pointed me the right way to go. I shall drill out the spots and let in a repair. That way I can get to the rear side of that flange.

[BX Bandit]

I found on mine that when I cut out the seam sealer between the inner wheel arch and the outer skin (on the inside roughly where your scratch is) I got water pouring out. So obviously water had been getting into that seam from inside (don't yet know how) and rusting its way out. Perhaps the same on yours?

It's always been bad there, fortunately I've not used it much in the rain. Can you post a piccy of where you mean?

So, that bilt hammer deox gel - how does that work? As in, you apply some, wait, wire brush off, if still rusty repeat until shiny?

[mat_fenwick]

It's the gap between the piece of metal with holes in in this picture, and the outer skin. (Ignore the two large cut out holes - they were just where a previous owner had put in some self tapping screws, and caused rust to start).



It appears to be bonded to the outer skin inside the wheel arch:



This picture was taken with my head inside the N/S wheel arch, looking forwards and slightly outwards. You can see where I've poked the seam with a knife, and water ran out of it!

The BH stuff, basically yes. Clean off any loose rust, brush on, wait overnight or longer (don't let it dry out - instructions say it helps to cover in cling film but I found in doing this the thickness of the gel layer was reduced) and wash off with a stiff brush and water. It does turn the rust to a dark brown/black substance like usual rust converters, but whatever it changes it to is water soluble, so can be washed off. Repeat until shiny.

[mat_fenwick]

This might also be useful:



(From this thread).

[BX Bandit]

Thanks mate, I'll have a look at that thread in detail. /\ That looks an utter night mare....

[citsncycles]

Er... Yes, it was interesting! Luckily I have about 18 years experience resurrecting motors that would have otherwise have gone to the scrappers, and have accumulated some useful tools and skills along the way. Timex will never be a show winner (except for shed of the show of course!) but I should be able to keep it ticking for a long time to come.

[BX Bandit]

Shed of the show?! That's my trophy! Well, it won't be when the white one is on the road I guess, so shed shed away!

I was taught to weld about 4-5 years ago and of course as you say, it's experience along the way also that teaches you also.

I'm confident in the more structural/unseen areas, but I really don't want to make a balls up of a visible section, even if it is a door shut. But the Valver is pretty precious really, so I'm keen to take my time, consider any advice and carefully proceed.

Doc I think I may take you up on a section off one of those scrappers - good excuse for a beer

[mat_fenwick]

I found on mine that when I cut out the seam sealer between the inner wheel arch and the outer skin I got water pouring out.

I just saw this on Chevronics' Facebook page, and added an arrow to it to show where I mean.



I slid a sharp knife up the seam inside the wheel arch where the arrow is, and found water had collected at the lowest point. So it seemed like there were two causes of the rust; this, and the C pillar seam being attacked from behind at the bottom where it is exposed inside the wheel arch.