Rear Height Corrector

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sleepy0905
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Rear Height Corrector

Post by sleepy0905 » Mon Feb 27, 2006 9:44 am

Does anyone know how long it will take to change the rear H/C as mine is seized also i have got to replace the part that is called the "Reversing Lever" in the haynes manual as mine is absolutely knackered but what i want to know is in the book it shows the lever with notches L1 L2 but the replacement one i have has no notches in it is this normal and if not does anyone have one i can have.

This is the reversing lever with no notches.
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Post by ken newbold » Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:47 pm

The thing looks normal to me.

As for changing the HC it's a straight forward job and there's plenty of room under there to get at it.

THe only thing that ca nbe a bit tricky is setting it up once fitted. You might be lucky and getit right first time :D on the other hand :evil:

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Post by sleepy0905 » Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:57 pm

Ok ken thanyou i will have to do it soon as my rearend is permanently on intermediate hight and it is a bit bumpy.
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Post by ken newbold » Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:03 pm

Are you sure it's not just stuck? I've only ever had to change one of these and thats because it was leaking.

There is so little movement on the piston itself, they can easily sieze up, I think I'd try getting under there with a large can of WD and get your youth to sit in the cab and work the lever back and forth for ten minutes or so. Once freed up and good dose of spray on grease should keep things in order for a while. (a Xantia trick) :oops:

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Post by sleepy0905 » Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:13 pm

Already tried that one with no luck all it does is bend the linkage but the corrector dont move. :(
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Post by sleepy0905 » Wed Mar 01, 2006 12:21 pm

Before i start the job has anyone any ideas of adjusting the rear ride hight without a pit as i DONOT want to be layed under the car while playing with the ride hight or is it a job that can only be done over a pit. :?: :shock: :roll:
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Post by Stewart (oily!) » Wed Mar 01, 2006 6:14 pm

I have done them with the rear end on ramps, its just a little alarming when the thing hisses and comes downwards, small adjustments and allowing the car time to settle seems to be the key.
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Post by sleepy0905 » Wed Mar 01, 2006 6:35 pm

Ok i will have to see if i can locate some ramps. :D
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Post by sleepy0905 » Thu Mar 02, 2006 2:38 pm

Right well i have studied the exploded diagram and read all the literature on how the H/C works now if the dash pot or damper valve is blocked with crap then that will make the suspension hard as there is nowhere for the Lhm to go from chamber c or d so the piston cannot move does anyone else agree with my theory :?: :o
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Post by DavidRutherford » Thu Mar 02, 2006 5:43 pm

A blocked height corrector cannot make the suspension go hard, as the height corrector only adjusts the volume of LHM in the system overall. Suspension movement due to bumps etc is taken care of by the sphere, and nothing else.

Most of the time, the HC is in it's "closed" position, thus having no effect on the suspension.
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Post by sleepy0905 » Thu Mar 02, 2006 5:48 pm

Oh bugger i wonder what else can be causing the hard rear suspension then as the spheres are brand new and i have checked them on the front so they arnt duff ones Hmm now i am :? any ideas anyone :?:
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Post by DavidRutherford » Thu Mar 02, 2006 5:51 pm

Siezed rear arm bearings mebbe? or I wonder if the ride height is too low/high and you're encountering the stops.
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Post by sleepy0905 » Thu Mar 02, 2006 5:56 pm

Arm bearings are fine and the ride hight is out a fraction but not by enough to encounter the bump stops this one has me very :? even with the car parked up you stand on the tow bar it only moves about half an inch it is very hard.
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Post by Stewart (oily!) » Thu Mar 02, 2006 7:39 pm

Sounds like you could do with getting the pressure checked in those spheres, they could have been on the shelf for a while mate.
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Post by jeremy » Thu Mar 02, 2006 7:39 pm

Sounds mechanical to me - bits that could be concerned are the trailing arm bearings and the struts themselves. Since that trailing arm bearings are OK then are the struts OK.

Isn't there a problem with the pistons sometime? I'm sure I've seen something somewhere about this? - does anyone know?

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