Removing and fitting an interior.

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Philip Chidlow
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Removing and fitting an interior.

Post by Philip Chidlow » Mon Feb 27, 2006 10:37 am

I am considering changing my BX's interior from GTi to 16v. Is anybody with experience of removing and replacing seats and doorcards able to give me a few pointers / hints and tips??? (before I get myself in fix or break something I shouldn't!)
• 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo saloon, White, 94k miles
• 2003 Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur Tourer, BRG, 145k miles.

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Barnsley BXer
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Post by Barnsley BXer » Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:02 am

Nothing to point out really,it's pretty straightforward,changed a mate's interior in a Sunday morning
1990 GTI 4x4
1992 TZD
Dear Drooper............................

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Philip Chidlow
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Post by Philip Chidlow » Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:03 am

Hope he recovers! :D
• 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo saloon, White, 94k miles
• 2003 Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur Tourer, BRG, 145k miles.

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Barnsley BXer
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Post by Barnsley BXer » Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:58 am

Owner and car were both fine.Funny thing is,my initials are D.R. which is sometimes mistaken for Doctor :D
1990 GTI 4x4
1992 TZD
Dear Drooper............................

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DavidRutherford
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Post by DavidRutherford » Tue Feb 28, 2006 11:45 am

Barnsley BXer wrote:Funny thing is,my initials are D.R. which is sometimes mistaken for Doctor :D
I get that a lot too... quite amusing at times.
this might be a signature

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Mike E (uk)
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Post by Mike E (uk) » Tue Feb 28, 2006 7:53 pm

Swapping interiors is very easy (far easier than some modern cars) this is a very worthwhile upgrade for some bx versions.

Only trick I can suggest is the Draper trim removal tool is very handy, else you can end up breaking all the little clips off the door trims.

This is only a flat piece of metal, bent 40 degrees halfway, with a notch at one end.

Mike

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Tim2cv
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Post by Tim2cv » Tue Feb 28, 2006 9:27 pm

its easy! Ive had 4 interiors in my car and they al change very quickly! Just remove the bit your bum sits on the front seats headrests and boot internals before you start and youl save time and swearing.
Also a good time to check under the boot carpet for rust, damp and holes! On 2 cars one of the bolts holding the rear upright sheared off. both the same ones different cars. just a damp spot i think!
TIM
p.s good time to clean the carpets thouroughly too!
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Post by Philip Chidlow » Tue Feb 28, 2006 9:43 pm

I feel I could take the plunge now. Thanks, chaps. There's one more question... are paasenger and driver's seats interchangeable?
• 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo saloon, White, 94k miles
• 2003 Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur Tourer, BRG, 145k miles.

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Tim2cv
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Post by Tim2cv » Wed Mar 01, 2006 7:42 am

Err. i dont think so as the seatbelt would be on the wrong side as they are attached to the seats.
Good luck!
TIM
2CV6 1986 Dolly

MEHARI 1976

DYANE 6 1981 - GF'S CAR!

www.bx16valve.co.uk/forum

www.myspace.com/tim2cv

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Philip Chidlow
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Post by Philip Chidlow » Wed Mar 01, 2006 7:44 am

D'oh... #-o
• 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo saloon, White, 94k miles
• 2003 Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur Tourer, BRG, 145k miles.

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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold » Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:14 am

The seat cushion can be interchanged with no problem.

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DLM
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Post by DLM » Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:50 pm

Yup - drivers and passenger seats are not interchangeable. But it's still not impossible to find your way around a problem that can't be solved by changing a seat squab. It just takes longer.

It can be a little fiddly, but it all depends what you need to do. Apart from the seat base, you can mix and match in a variety of ways. I'm assuming the basic 16v seat frame is the same as the the Gti. If the underlying frame is different, then what I'm saying may not hold true.

(1) Front seatback frames can be transplanted to replace a twisted one.

(2) Seat back foam and covers can be transplanted.

(3) A welder-equipped BXer COULD consider welding a new seatbelt mounting point into the recess provided on the frame (if you're skilled enough and it's legal). BX front seats have the mounting recess on both sides, but a threaded mounting-point will only have been welded onto one side.

A ratcheting 11m spanner is very handy if swapping rear seat bolsters, but it's worth tying it to your wrist in case it should drop into the void behind the bolster mounting-panel, where the securing-nut lives. Rear hatch side-panels need to come off.

Beware when swapping rear seat backs: the 10mm bolts which go through the hinged securing plate can rust badly. They poke straight out underneath, and pick up road muck. Use plenty of loosening juice and a light spanner-hand - the bolt-heads break off surprisingly easily.

Alternativele method: on MOST BXs you can swap out the individual seat backs leaving the securing-plate in situ - use long-nose pliers to push through the hinge-pins and pop off the retaining washers. Don't lose them, though.

Earlier Mk 2s have a completely different hinged securing-plate, and a different means of attaching the seat backs. Check before starting.
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