Seeing Jaba's pics of his self-detaching rear subframe mounts has made up my mind that I'l take advantage of the white one being up on the ramp to strip it all out, blast the subframe, rustproof, paint, fit new mounts and arm bearings and re-pipe the whole rear end at the same time.
Trouble is, that wasn't part of the original plan, and I've got the whole front end in bits as well - struts, wishbones, hubs etc all out. So I can't pressurize the system in order to crack off the rear spheres....
So.... is there a way of cracking the spheres with the system unpressurized, or do I have to wait 'til the front is all back together, then pressurize, then start dismantling again? All suggestions gratefully received....
Rear subframe removal
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KevR
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Rear subframe removal
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!
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JayW
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Re: Rear subframe removal
The rear spheres can be reomved unpressurised.
As the cylinders are loose in the mounts you can pull the cylinder across so the pipe union will lock into the hole on the side of the mount. Then you can wind the spheres off.
But, you don't need to remove them to get the subframe off.
As the cylinders are loose in the mounts you can pull the cylinder across so the pipe union will lock into the hole on the side of the mount. Then you can wind the spheres off.
But, you don't need to remove them to get the subframe off.
I have zero patience for your tedium.
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KevR
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Re: Rear subframe removal
Thanks for that. I want to take the cylinders out so I can blast/paint the subframe and swing arms, as well as checking over the cylinders themselves.
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!
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KevR
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Re: Rear subframe removal
The problem at the rear is that if the system's not pressurized then the cylinders can flap about and get damaged as you try and crack the spheres off. It's better to crack them fractionally with it pressurized, then de-pressurize before actually removing them. In the past I've completely mangled a cylinder trying to get it off an already-dismantled subframe - didn't want to risk doing the same with this one!djoptix wrote:The HBOL is full of dire warnings about removing anything on the hydraulic system without depressurising so I think you're OK...
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!