P.R constantly open?

[Kitch]

Since switching the FDV on BAH to get the PAS working again, the car doesn't really have a tick time on idle - it just continuously hisses, unless you bring the revs up where it starts ticking like normal.

I've also noticed it's a bit lazy to rise and the brakes aren't as good as they used to be. On the flip side, the warning light doesn't stay on very long.

I'm thinking either a lazy pump, or a totally screwed accumulator sphere (so that the PR is constantly open). Any opinions on it?

[RobC]

Mine does that at idle - solved by raising the revs to 1500.

I'm assuming it's a poor pump, but also curious as to other causes before i go shelling out on a re-con one!

edit: just thought maybe there's a bit of air in the system and the bleed screw could be opened for a little bit?

[Way2go]

Is this requiring Jeremy's favourite old posted fix? The one where he advocated the reseating of the ball valve in the PR?

[citronut]

as he / \ says

regards malcolm

[Kitch]

Is this requiring Jeremy's favourite old posted fix? The one where he advocated the reseating of the ball valve in the PR?

Any links? Can't find anything on here....

[Way2go]

Is this requiring Jeremy's favourite old posted fix? The one where he advocated the reseating of the ball valve in the PR?

Any links? Can't find anything on here....

Here's one of the posts:

A guess - is the system pressure relief valve in the regulator assembled and adjusted correctly?

This is the screw plug arrangement in the middle of one side. If you take it out I think you should have a spring, a plastic support with a cup end and a ball bearing in that order. The ball can be seated by putting it on its seat in the casting (locate with grease if necessary) and striking it ONCE using a BRASS punch. (Steel may put a flat on the ball which won't then seal.)

I had no end of problems with my DTR Turbo and eventually re-built a FDV which didn't work properly (Steering worked but the light kept coming on, went out when steering turned, wheel had to be held against resistance to get car to rise.)

I took the valve out of the original one I'd removed to see what size of brass rod I'd need to re-seat the bearing - and found it was assembled incorrectly - put it right - and re-fitted and its still there 6 years later.

The screw adjustment should not be disturbed - ie slacken the collar a touch, undo plug leaving the collar in position, screw home till collar bottoms, undo centre a touch and tighten collar. This adjuster controls the max system pressure I think.

Workshop manual available in English on Bob Smith's site.

http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The link to Bob Smiths site is dead which is a shame as there was a lot of good stuff detailed and well presented on there. Still, the above contains the info I think you are looking for.

[mat_fenwick]

I've used the copper tip from a MIG welder, plonked on the end of a standard steel punch.