Snapped tzd clutch cable

[mikesg]

Hi folks.
Just over a week ago the clutch cable on my tzd snapped , so I called out the rescue service. (The AA courtesy of PD James insurance!!!) I was expecting a tow home but the mechanic proceeded to remove all of the air trunking etc from under the bonnet and made up & fitted an inner cable. Wow, I thought thank you very much and away to go. The next day I had to take my wife to hospital in Bath, due to an accident at home. She spent 6 hours there to find out if she had suffered a slight stroke or not. She hadn't thankfully but had damaged her left knee.
However, on the way home from Bath and about 6 miles from home I had just changed up to fourth gear and the clutch pedal went down to the foot board again. I managed to drive to within a mile of home then pulled into a selected layby to be towed home. It appears that the clutch cable had become disconnected from the pedal end. I've since reconnected the made up cable but I think that it's a slightlly bigger diameter than the old one and is sticking a bit.

Right, after some of my life story, I have bought from a local Cit dealer a brand new cable (part No 96081710) and my question is how easy or difficult is it to fit? Or do I get my local no VAT garage to do it? Or are there any forum members near Chippenham who could possibly oblige? I'm also after a throttle cable to fit.
Thanks for any advice
Mike

[Dollywobbler]

Funnily enough, I was discussing this job with Mat Fenwick today as I've got a new cable to go on my TZD. Quite fiddly apparently, but it sounds quite do-able. There's a long pin on the clutch that goes between the lever and some other part. It is only held in place by pressure, so can easily drop out (assuming it's the same as an NA clutch). Be very wary if you're on a gravel driveway!

[JayW]

It's only particularly difficult if you've been eating too many pies and get claustrophobic in footwells.

Asside from the pin in the clutch pedal, the only real broblem i find is getting the damn grommet in properly, quite fiddly getting enough leverage on it!

[BX Bandit]

If it's an NA then you'll have the pin jobby, if it's a turbo then there is no pin to speak of.

in a turbo access to where the cable passes through the bulkhead on the engine side is a bugger. It may be worth removing the engine mount on the drivers side and the lower mount so you can move the whole engine forward and give you room. But you'll need a jack under the engine to support it and help you fit the mount bracket back on.

You'll also need to remove the pedal box.

The REAL awkward part is clipping in the small white plastic locking ring at the the clevis pin end in the footwell. An utter b&stard.

My 16v came with a new clutch cable fitted by a Citroen dealer (with receipt to prove it) and they such an utter horlicks of it that I'd never trust a garage to do it properly. Just be prepared to give it a whole day and make note of the cable routing when you remove the old one.

Good luck!

[mat_fenwick]

I'd never trust a garage to do it properly.

If it wasn't my car and if I'd quoted for the job without having done one before, I can see how the temptation to cut corners may arise!

[DavidRutherford]

I agree, the clutch cable on a TD is a bit of a swine of a job. It caught me somewhat unawares, as the previous clutch cable I'd fitted was to a Mk2 cavalier, which is a 10 minute job, including the cup of tea. Cue the BX, and it took me about 3 hours, and some fairly impressive swear words.

Also, make sure you get the cable back into every single routing clip and wire clamp. If you don't, there's a risk the cable will touch stuff and you'll be doing the job again.

Throttle cable is easy peasy though.

[really?]

i do them when i take the engine out. which i will do even if its not necessary, ever since i bought my engine hoist. gives you a chance to pimp your engine bay and find and fix any oil leaks ie replace the rocker cover gasket and breather hose, they are like 20 odd year old bits of rubber that get hot and cold and have oil against them etc... cheap too. i did the clutch cable, handbrake cables, octopusseseses, clutch, timing belt, water pump, top hose and temp sender, bit of paint, 7 pin multiplug thing on both of the bx's shortly after purchase. much easier with the engine out, and silly not to do everything while you can see it all, and even touch it with both hands. clutch cable is still a bit of a pain at the pedal end, even when you have unrestricted access. worth checking if your pedal box is starting to crack while you are there. the one in my turbo estate now sports a fetching reinforcing plate of thicker steel.