drop link

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citronut
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Re: drop link

Post by citronut »

KevR wrote:
BX Bandit wrote:I also think OE ones have more travel in the lower ball joint of the drop links but that could be my warped mind!
I noticed the same last time I changed one.
what the warped mind bit :shock: :twisted: :lol: :wink:
BX Bandit wrote: Be very careful if you're only changing one - like Mat I've come across ones that are shorter than standard. Took me ages to work out why the car was constantly steering to the right and wearing tyres even though the tracking was right....
un/equal anti roll bar cant cause the wheel track to be out

regards malcolm
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Re: drop link

Post by KevR »

citronut wrote: un/equal anti roll bar cant cause the wheel track to be out
No, but it can make you think it is! Pulled so badly to the right and scrubbed the outside edge of the front right tyre so bad that I assumed I'd bent a track rod or something.
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Re: drop link

Post by Tinkley »

I had not intended replacing the drop links but on replacing everything, one of them will not do up at the top. Just can't seem to get enough 'grip' on the flat. It undid OK but will it reverse, like hell. Oh well a new pair and out with the hacksaw.....or angle grinder.
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mat_fenwick
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Re: drop link

Post by mat_fenwick »

Can you tighten it onto the taper with a plain nut, then once seated replace with a nylock?
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Tinkley
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Re: drop link

Post by Tinkley »

It's the top of the droplink that's the problem not the lower taper. It must be undone 10-12mm you can see clean thread below the nut to the ball joint. Will that nut shift - no way in either direction. I was using a pair of adjustables, one on the two flat sides above and the other on the 16mm flats nut. Unles of course its a left hand thread, but their is no designation to that effect ie groove in centre of flats. Now when I came to undo it, it moved OK if a little stiff, probably crud all round the thread but I left penetrating oil on it overnight and still no joy.
I could split the nut ie angle grind it off. Thread type? 10X1.25? It's not 10X 1.5 (ISO coarse std) and its not fine enough for 10X1.0. Good chance it has been changed in past at 157k. The links are shot on my other Athena at 117k, never got round to it before crunch No2, but these ones are OK no rattle at all.
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Re: drop link

Post by BX Bandit »

Mole grips are handy for this sort of thing but it sounds like its seized up proper. Grind away!
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citronut
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Re: drop link

Post by citronut »

try jacking the arm up to put weight onto the top swivel joint, it might just push it home tight enough to wind the nut on

regards malcolm
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Re: drop link

Post by barry badger »

BX Bandit wrote: Be very careful if you're only changing one - like Mat I've come across ones that are shorter than standard. Took me ages to work out why the car was constantly steering to the right and wearing tyres even though the tracking was right....
That's interesting, the tzd i've just put back on the road has been pulling to the left for a couple of years now. Because i've got so many bxs and my other half drives this one i can't think whether it coincided with any suspension parts being replaced.
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Re: drop link

Post by Tinkley »

Resorted to angle grinding off both drop links. Fitted a pair of 'First Line' brand ones from Euro 20 quid each. They are about 5-6mm shorter than the others which were about 1.5 - 2.0mm different to each other.
We shall see. I would rather have the matched pair. My experience of front tyre wear is dead even and most wear on outer and inner shoulders compared to center. If not like this the tracking is out.
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Re: drop link

Post by rutter123 »

grinder, good job easiest way to get em off, worth checking lower ball joints as well these can also knock when worn.
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Re: drop link

Post by Tinkley »

Interestingly I think there may be different length droplinks for different models. The new, about 6-7mm shorter ones seem to make the front quite a bit stiffer. The car even looks a little lower at the front. I suspect there is a difference between the 'normal' ones and ones for the GTI and 16V'er. The car steers fine absolutely spot on no wobble or noises and tracks perfectly. Just at low speed over speed bumps and erm the wonderful surfaces we have to traverse it eems unforgiving.
I am aware that the shorter link will put more load on the anti roll bar and so stiffen it up. Either that or the spheres need regassing/replacing. Fronts have done about 40k - Amteks from GSF and are 4 years old. It is not that unusual to fully bottom the car (both ends at worst) on some of the local potholes especially in the wet even at sub 30mph speeds. Any thoughts?
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Re: drop link

Post by BX Bandit »

The problem with spheres is age not mileage. You may of only had them four years but how long we're they on the shelf for?
Also what size spheres do you have? The lower pressure 400cc types will reach an uncomfortable ride sooner than the 500cc spheres.
Best of going to Pleaideies IMO.

Also, despite the drop links being a tad shorter, it won't make any difference to ride height, or any difference at all so long as both sides are the same length. There aren't different drop links for different models afaik.
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citronut
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Re: drop link

Post by citronut »

BX Bandit wrote: Also, despite the drop links being a tad shorter, it won't make any difference to ride height, or any difference at all so long as both sides are the same length.
i think if the drop links are a different length to what were on the car, this will affect the ride height, as it will in fact rotate the anti roll bar to a different angle to were it had been, so in turn affect the height corrector,

an easy check for the cars ride height is with it set to normal and with engine running, look at the line the drive shafts are at,

as they should be sitting level to the center of the hub,

regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special

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H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
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Re: drop link

Post by BX Bandit »

Hmmm, I need to shut up then, I forgot about the h/c being connected to the arb. I'll stick to drinking cider - it's what I do best
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Re: drop link

Post by Tinkley »

I changed the drop links as a matched pair (it made sense after some comments on this thread) so that it would be even and a 'known'. To get the ride height adjuster to give the correct angle on the drive shafts, I assume it is adjustable as per Haynes etc?
It's definitely stiffer since the drop link change and more like a coil spring car at the front. Whilst I am aware of the slight drop in performance of the spheres (Planned to be changed/regassed next year) this trait is quite easily felt plus the visual of the car sitting lower at the front. Quite a sort of lean meaningful pose but not normal for a 16TGS!.
Thanks for the input Malcolm. I reckon these drop links are 7mm shorter. All nice and quiet at the front though it was not actually knocking before!. Now I worry about other noises, probably without reason.
She's running OK at the moment not leaking any fluids and low 40's upwards on fuel. Not bad for an engine not run for 4 years just sat outside. I confess the plugs have not even been removed! Straight through emmissions 0.16% Co - better than 09 C4!!!.
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