Rear wheel bearings

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Defender110
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by Defender110 »

Wonder what's happened to Rmattila?
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citronut
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by citronut »

i thought one side/part of one of the inner or outer race,ies were formed/machined stroinght into the drive flange,
thus why the likes of GSF only sell complete flange and bearing assemblies,

even citroen only shows the complete unit below are part No.'s for with and without ABS

3701 42
REAR HUB BEARING

95 035 532
LE-0405
WHEEL HUB
- WITH ABS BRAKES

im 99% sure that ebay listing for the bearing on its own is actually a front bearing not rear,

regards malcolm
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by KevR »

citronut wrote:i
im 99% sure that ebay listing for the bearing on its own is actually a front bearing not rear,
100% sure! They're going to revise their listings - it is indeed a problem with someone's cross-reference database.
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by Way2go »

KevR wrote:
citronut wrote:i
im 99% sure that ebay listing for the bearing on its own is actually a front bearing not rear,
100% sure! They're going to revise their listings - it is indeed a problem with someone's cross-reference database.
Another case of Caviat Emptor in the world of BX parts buying! [-X
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by KevR »

Yep, got to do your homework!
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Thread Bear
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by Thread Bear »

I have Homer's rear hub off. The bearings in this item are clearly built into the hub and not part of the hub. They are a pair of ball races sharing a cage that places the ball bearings half a position out in respect to its nieghbour, thus giving maximum surface area to the circumference over a pair of bearings. The centre can be removed as the two inner races are held together by a snap ring, which can be shocked apart if they have not parted during removal from the axle. The ball bearings can then be removed from the cage individually, keeping the two sides sets apart. The cage is then loose and can be withdrawn. The grease seal comes off with a sharp tap on a soft blunt drift, bit of wood in my case. On cleaning you can see that both the outer races are pressed in. Not an easy pair to remove as they offer little lip or edge to press onto, but it could be done. Leaving a loose parted out used bearing scattered on your bench and a naked hub.

Note, as with most ball bearings, tensioning the retaining nut holding the assembly on will not alter the bearing clearance, as in a taper roller bearing. If its got play in it, its duffed, as the two central inner races offer a solid contact between axle back face and retaining nut. Neither does this retaining nut need to be excessively tight but it must be located in place to prevent it backing off. The nut is designed to be disposable, a one use wonder. I think an old fashioned lock tab washer could be made to get round that if needs be.

In Homers case the seal has not kept the water out of the bearing. Probably not helped by a lack of grease to aid this function. The inner of the two races has lost its hardening to corrosion and is now chaffing away as bearings will. The inner of the two races is in perfect condition. Such is the construction of this bearing another similar hub in the same condition could donate its inner race to became a replacement outer and a complete serviceable bearing made out of two part worn ones. I suspect it is normally the inner race that fails for the reasons above. Rebuilt with bearing grease there is no reason why a pair of hubs should not yield a perfect singleton that will do 100k miles of fault free service. Those scrapping cars might bare this in mind for the future even if the hub feels a bit crap. Especially if the bearing set is unavailable as a part in its own right.

I have not the time or tooling to press the outers from the hub and see if there is a number to be quoted. I need to get Homer to MOT. Secondly, it is likely that the bearing spec altered over time so clearly only identical bearings are going to match up into a home made replacement.

Hope this helps.
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mat_fenwick
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by mat_fenwick »

Very useful, thanks. Must admit I'm struggling to visualise it 100%, but the important thing is that the races are not part of the hub but a separate item. It's likely that I'll have this job ahead of me at some point, as all 4 wheel bearings are original after 225k miles! Yet I had to replace a set on a previous BX after only 90k miles :?
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Thread Bear
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by Thread Bear »

I have pics but I have the wrong PC with me, as always.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work

'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by Defender110 »

I never thought it could be part of the hub, the races are much harder steel that the casting of the hub. If your bearing is knackered a little trick for removing the old pressed in race (if you have a welder) is to do a run of weld all the way round the race, when it cools it contracts the race which will then virtually just fall out when you turn it upside down.
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by KevR »

Good info. In the end, with RXBX's help I cross-referenced some part numbers and ended up with some hubs listed as Xantia for about £19 posted, which I thought was ok. I bought two pairs which should keep me going for another twenty years or so!
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by Thread Bear »

For £19 its not worth knobbing about, is it? Still I wanted to know what was in there.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work

'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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mat_fenwick
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by mat_fenwick »

Defender110 wrote:I never thought it could be part of the hub, the races are much harder steel that the casting of the hub.
As an aside, you could do it as one complete unit if you so wished, atlhough I can't see an advantage. In a previous job there were some componants that we induction hardnened only the bearing surfaces, leaving the rest of the material with the original properties of the steel. I'm not certain of the application, although at the quantities we dealt with it certainly wasn't volume automotive!
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by KevR »

Still I wanted to know what was in there.
Me too, and since you've done it, that saves me having to pull mine apart!
Although I probably will anyway, because I'm like that.
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by Defender110 »

KevR wrote:
Still I wanted to know what was in there.
Me too, and since you've done it, that saves me having to pull mine apart!
Although I probably will anyway, because I'm like that.
+2 :wink:
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Re: Rear wheel bearings

Post by MULLEY »

Whenever i've bought a bx, i always clean out the rear bearings & apply fresh grease, jobbed :) Never had to replace a single bearing.
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