Headlight Modification

[David]

Hi all, Thanks electrokid for the wiring diagram, I assume "doom" & "mood" at the bottom are the lights, If so it makes perfect sense now.
I'm glad you liked my diagram, even though it wasn't as technical as yours.

So that's 2 ways of doing the same mod.

Its amazing how much of a difference this mod makes (regardless of which way you go to achieve it). If you look at my diagram, just for a comparison; on the dipped relay I put the 12V to the battery as shown on the diagram & (just for a test) put put 12V through the original wires, & the difference in the brightness of the lights was very noticeable when I switched the relay on & off. So this mods well worth doing.

Thanks everyone for all the input.

[Tinkley]

Thanks for the diagrams and the heads up on dim dip. On bikes the mandatory lighting is IMHO a waste of time preventing accidents which is it's sole purpose. In good light it is much easier to judge vehicle speed if the vehicle does not have lights on. However in bright sunlight and say you ride under heavy tree overhanging growth you need to put your lights on to be seen against a 'dark' background. My preference is to use bike lighting judiciously to make yourself have maximum understandable visibility (and road position) at all times.

To me the regulations are a 'safety blanket' which do NOT address the real problem. Added to which now the insurers will probably not be too keen if you had an accident and your lights were not on. I believe research on the subject in Sweden, on cars found daytime lights caused accidents to fall for the first year and afterwards went back to the same level as before.....nuff said.

[KevR]

Ah, ok - I understand now. Seems pretty pointless to me (no, I don't buy the idea of it making bikes less visible either) and I'm reasonably sure mine doesn't work anyway!
So, next question... If and when I finally get round to adding relays to the two TZDs, do I need to do anything specific to disable the system, or can I just trigger the relays from the two bulb feeds?

All new bikes since exactly erm, quite a few years ago, have DRLs hard-wired so you don't have a choice. Here in France DRL for bikes has been compulsory since at least the mid-eighties. As to whether it's actually any use....

[mat_fenwick]

I don't buy the idea of it making bikes less visible either

The 'logic' was that if a bike was say filtering through slow or stationary traffic which all had their dipped beams on, the bike could be lost in the car headlights. My logic is if I'm filtering, I assume absolutely no-one has seen me! (And have still been caught out by a pedestrian running out )

If and when I finally get round to adding relays to the two TZDs, do I need to do anything specific to disable the system, or can I just trigger the relays from the two bulb feeds?

If you just feed the coil of the relay from the dip and main beam feeds, everything will work normally when headlights are selected. IF your dim-dip is functioning, then when sidelights are selected with the ignition on, the feed that would have gone to the dipped beam via a resistor will operate the relay coil (little current flowing so bugger all voltage drop) and close the relay contacts.

If so, remove the dim-dip relay (near to washer bottle) or resistor (cannister behind front bumper).

[KevR]

My logic is if I'm filtering, I assume absolutely no-one has seen me!

Mine too!

If you just feed the coil of the relay from the dip and main beam feeds, everything will work normally when headlights are selected. IF your dim-dip is functioning, then when sidelights are selected with the ignition on, the feed that would have gone to the dipped beam via a resistor will operate the relay coil (little current flowing so bugger all voltage drop) and close the relay contacts.

If so, remove the dim-dip relay (near to washer bottle) or resistor (cannister behind front bumper).

Ta for that - really must get round to it soon, along with adding a relay for the starter solenoid as well.

[mat_fenwick]

a relay for the starter solenoid as well.

I've just done that, for the second time. Initially I'd mounted one on the injector pump, which did the trick but on some occasions after a long run it wouldn't restart. I'd put that down to heat soak from the engine affecting the magnetic field of the relay coil, so a relocation was called for.

I'd been getting voltage drop in (amongst other things) the ignition switch which I think was the cause of my ABS light illuminating dimly. So it made sense to take the load off that with a bank of 4 relays under the dashboard - as an added bonus I get less dimming of the clock with the brake lights I might do a write up if I can get some neat photos!

[citsncycles]

The problem I had with my first bike is that the alternator output was roughly the same as the engine plus lights requirements - you could see the lights dip whenever a brake was applied!

The Honda is much better in that respect, and I'll be uprating the Urals to ensure the're the same, but the CZ could be fun - apparently it was common practice at night to switch to sidelights when stationary in order to avoid running out of power, and if you ran the battery flat you were stuffed because at kick start speed the dynamo didn't produce enough power for a spark!

[KevR]

Initially I'd mounted one on the injector pump, which did the trick but on some occasions after a long run it wouldn't restart. I'd put that down to heat soak from the engine affecting the magnetic field of the relay coil, so a relocation was called for.

Jolly good - I'll try and avoid that then!

[Tinkley]

On my Morini 31/2 the ignition coil was separate from the rest on its mount behind the flywheel. This separate circuit meant it could start without need for the battery. You have to know which wires to pull out the back of the ignition switch though... It is actually quite a good get you home system as if you cracked a battery or whatever the bike would still run perfectly and hand signals would do at a pinch.

[electrokid]

I assume "doom" & "mood" at the bottom are the lights,

Well - yes they are... the "oo" in each of those is situated on the vertical line - IE: each "o" is the symbol for a filament: D and M refer to Dip and Main filaments.

do I need to do anything specific to disable the system, or can I just trigger the relays from the two bulb feeds?

If you're working to my circuit Kev then all the references to "side, main (3 connections), dip (2 connections), are the original feeds to the bulbs, and ignition is an additional feed from any convenient place, for example, the stop solenoid. For the diodes I recommend 1N4007.

[David]

Hi all, That all makes sense Thanks for that.

Looks like I've started a right debate here

So, next question... If and when I finally get round to adding relays to the two TZDs, do I need to do anything specific to disable the system, or can I just trigger the relays from the two bulb feeds?

As already mentioned you just need to remove the dip beam resistor from behind the front bumper, it can be access by removing the grill & its on the RH side of the car. (to your left when your in front of the car).

After you have removed the resistor, You can 'just trigger the relays from the two bulb feeds' or if you feel more adventurous you could try to use the more sophisticated diagram posted above.

Hope that helps.

[kiwi]

And these dim dip devices are also fitted to the NZ marketed BX but no regulations regarding the use.

[citsncycles]

I wouldn't mind betting that they were standard fitment on RHD BX's after a certain date, simply because the UK was their biggest RHD market.