rear wheel splash plates replacements

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Tinkley
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by Tinkley »

Yes you could 'fibreglass' them, but remove all the rust first. Grind it off with a Dremel or similar and small conical stones. Use structural Epoxy not polyester and really clean the surface, degrease with acetone. Best Epoxies to use are WEST sytem and SP Systems 320 product, both fairly widely available from good marine Chandlers and commercial Fibreglass places. You will need a dry and moderately warm place to do it. The resins are quite slow cure - 8+ hours and absorb water whilst curing so humidity is important. Also 15 degree heat + is needed at least to start the exotherm. Of course in summer in 30+ degrees the reaction is much faster, in fact never put the just mixed resin in the sun or you will have a smoking pot... :lol: Some of the resins give a working life of anything from 15 mins to 1.5 hours with the 2 part mixed solution.

For cloth, my own preference would be a layer each side of 200 gsm glass woven roving. This will be pretty even. Another coat of resin over the cloth after the initial one should give something that can be sanded and painted. You will become familiar with amine bloom in the process.....

Poyester resins are OK but not a patch on the more expensive epoxies when it comes to this type of work. There are also a lot of fillers and other things that make epoxy a much better choice. An awful lot of marine stuff has been built with it over the last 50 yeras or so, not to mention car shells.....

Yes, the little ridges in the shields do quite significantly stiffen the plates and stop ringing and distortion.
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by Thread Bear »

This is a sad story of a con. Finnigans used to manufacture and sell Hammerite. It was an enamel, cover all in one, paint that was tough, and while it did not solve rust issues it was strong and not permeable so would stay put till the metal beneath gave way. Trustan was the best rust inhibitor on the British market. Both these products got bought by an American company who seem to have the idea that if you buy a successful brand, you alter it and make it cheaper to produce and then count your profits while trading on the previous glowing product reputation. Can I say like Kraft and Cadburys? Yuk! Both these products are crap! Trustan got withdrawn in the end. I cannot comment on Kurust as it is a differing type of product that tries to do what Trustan used to, but looked like loose putty. I was never that impressed with the results. It went off with age in the unopened pack, how? So yes painting modern Hammerite on that is not going to rustproof anything. Forget Hammerite, its no longer a proper enamel paint.

However Fertan is still going. Its German and it is a nasty chemical concoction based on Phosphoric Acid. Its action will put you off Coke drinks! This stuff was used to stabilise such things as the submarines down at Gosport. You still have to knock out the loose rust but this stuff then converts the oxides into black powder. It gets into the pits and fetches the deep stuff out. It leaves an activated surface that offers some continuing protection. It is expensive.

Lost track of who sells a quality enamel based metal hammer type finish. But for smooth finish Valspar (spelling) or other yacht enamel paints will offer a hard impermeable surface and in most cases will cover the washed down activated Fertan treated surface. Again not cheap but yachts and such have a far harder life than cars.

The Fertan type product is the only thing I found that could stop older Alfas, Fiats and such from rusting, but only is you could get both sides of the area. Now that is saying something. Now I have tipped it I just hope they have not sold out to some charlatan outfit looking for easy bucks.
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by citsncycles »

My GS had lots of surface rust on the roof. I wire brushed it, then used Jenolite, followed by aerosol primer and top coat. This was about 5 years ago, with most of that time outside, and it's been fine.
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by Defender110 »

I've had a lot of use with converters and Kurust is now my own personal favourite as I have become used to its features over the years and has proved to be excellent if used as instructed is an acid based converter acting in the way Fertan does converting the the remaining oxidations to black, I like how milky Kurust is and how the creaping effect runs. It is essential to overcoat it with a primer and topcoat as if left uncoated it will just basically wash off again in contact with water / rain. The Built- Hamber stuff is also excellent but quite a bit more expensive. I have also used the Jenolite with success but don't like the fact you have to wash this off after applying it and before recoating.
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by MULLEY »

I presume they are same sided? I do have a brand new one, that could be borrowed as a template if someone wants to make up some?
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by Defender110 »

MULLEY wrote:I presume they are same sided? I do have a brand new one,
Don't know for sure on the BX but Back Plates are normally always handed.
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by Brian »

The brake back plates on all of my BX's, past and present have been symmetrical.

I was at some stage in the past thinking of using galanized sheet to fabricate replacements.
But....
The pressing was too complicated for me, so I gave up the idea.
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by MULLEY »

If the splash plates weren't there, what would the consequences be?
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by Kitch »

MULLEY wrote:If the splash plates weren't there, what would the consequences be?
Dirtier everything :lol:
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by MULLEY »

Just the way i like em ;)
2002 C5 2.0 HDI Estate - Jasmine - Now SORN
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1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - My daily
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired.
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN

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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by Defender110 »

Reduced braking efficiency in the wet.
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by Tinkley »

Just to echo TB's comments, marine finishes are tougher than most automotive ones. The constant salt environment merits this. Generally they fall into 3 classes on the paint side. 1. Alkyds, sometimes called 'traditional' these are oil based and usually have a white spirit cleaner. 2. One pack polyurethanes which are better and have either white spirit or cellulose thinners as cleaner. 3. 2 Pack Polyurethanes which are really tough and hard and have a cellulose thinners as cleaner.

There is a subtle difference in the make up between automotive and marine 2 packs which makes the latter more durable in harsh service conditions. I have yet to see any proper marine finishes sold in any DIY store..... anything so described is from several generations ago or a 'selling point' advertising wise.

For undercoating 2 pack epoxies take some beating with 2 pack polyester a little behind. The advantage of the 2 packs is they properly cure and form a pretty good barrier to moisture. As they need to dry less, fewer pores are left in the surface from solvent evaporation. BTW you can put one pack polys on top of 2 pack but not the other way round. On a lot of dinghies I use almost exclusively one pack (Hempel) varnish as it will sit on almost any under surface type. On my own boats I use 2 pack varnishes throughout and epoxy sheath the wood on the outer hull, prior to two pack painting. None of the finishes will protect for ever though but they are way better than those of many years ago. My Dad's old dinghy still has (most of) her 1958 2 pack varnish finish on her and even though she was kept in a 'dry' boathouse a lot of her life that is impressive.

I've even done my front door (solid oak) in proper 2 pack varnish....

Oh and it should be possible to make the splash plates entirely in FRP so no rust would result. Just a simple mould would be needed.
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by KevR »

Defender110 wrote:Reduced braking efficiency in the wet.
But since the rear brakes on a BX (or most cars for that matter) don't actually do much, I doubt you'd notice the difference. :wink:
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Re: rear wheel splash plates replacements

Post by Mothman »

I havnt had these splash plates on the rear of my TXD Estate for years and it brakes just fine, no difference felt at all. Dont think the lack of them makes any difference at all.

Andy
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