what to check / replace while the engine's out

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citsncycles
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what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by citsncycles »

Just won the Synergie TD engine I was bidding on the Bay for Fred. This means I'll be pulling the 17 engine over the next few days and prepping the engine bay for the new engine.

Work I'm planning to do before fitting the engine is as follows:
Check and replace if necessary all hydraulic, water and fuel pipes and hoses.
Swap from old engine to new the camshaft, cambelt (it's run less than 30 seconds!) And tensioner.
Fit new water pump (will the late BX one I have in stock fit?)
Check and replace if necessary engine mounts, drive shaft gaiters and joints.
Doucble check inner wings for any welding required.
Fit a new clutch (once I've worked out which combination of parts I need.
Overhaul the gearbox I plan to fit (currently the 19D hatch 'box I aquired recently).

Is there anything I missed, or that any of you think I need to change or uprate due to the engine change?
Mike Sims
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by RobC »

In addition to your comprehensive list, 'tis also a great opportunity to check and clean engine bay wiring. Also the steering coupling, and indeed the steering rack is now readily accessible. Take the chance to change the clutch cable too, unless you know it's very new.

If you're fitting a new octopus, some people also re-route it to somewhere more sensible (though I've never tried this).
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by KevR »

Crank and camshaft oil seals as well.
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mat_fenwick
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by mat_fenwick »

Clutch cable +1000! Not a fun job with a TD engine in situ, but perhaps I'm biased due to several setbacks.

A late BX pump should fit, assuming it's for the very late BXs with bolt on rather than clip on timing belt covers. The pump will still physically bolt onto the block regardless, but the difference is where the cover fits on - I think the later pump has less of a belt shield in the casting and relies more on the timing cover for protection.
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by citsncycles »

I think I've got a clutch cable here, so will fit that. I'll also check the rack gaitors and track rod joints, although the driver's side ones seem OK.

I'mgoing right through the electrics anyway, especially as there seems to have been a few mods done over the years!
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BX 17RD MK1 - it called to me!
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by KevR »

mat_fenwick wrote:Clutch cable +1000! Not a fun job with a TD engine in situ, but perhaps I'm biased due to several setbacks.
That's what I always thought, but the last one I did was actually (relatively) easy. Can't remember what I did differently, but it may have been as simple as having an extra pair of hands available....
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by David »

From experience I would say de-rust & paint everything, check all your steering bits & replace the octopus regardless!
When I changed mine to 4x4, I put the subframe back on, shoehorned the engine, gearbox & transfer box in, got it running & within a week it was pouring LHM everywhere (well it still is, but from the back). The octopus had burst in 5 places. I had to shoehorn the engine out again to replace it!
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by hilarystone »

I think the steering coupling is worth checking. When pinion valve seal was changed recently to cure a small leak on my 16V Andrew Weston also changed the steering coupling which has tightened the steering up tremendously…
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by citsncycles »

I have a new coupling somewhere, but don't know if it's the right one (there's at least 2 from memory).
Mike Sims
BX 19RD Estate Mk1 - Timex!
BX 4X4 Estate - Oh god, I've done it again!
BX 17RD MK1 - it called to me!
BX14 TGE, - SOLD
XM Turbo SD,GS Club Estate,Visa 17D Leader,HY Pickup,Dyane Nomad,Dyane 6,2CV AZL,Falcon S,Trabant P50,3x Land Rovers (88" series 1,109" series 2a FFR,series 2a Marshall ambulance),DKW F7, Lambretta LD150 x 1.5,Mobylette SP93,Ural Cossack,Ural M63,CZ 250 Sport,Honda Varadero 125,lots of bicycles & tricycles including (but not only) Sunbeams,Higgins & Bates!
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by B-Hive »

if these engines have welsh plugs..then replace them,,,

agreed ....front and rear crank seals

check the main/harmonic pulley for wear..

also hoses into and out off heater matrix, and air cond where applicable.

Not sure of the clearances with your engine but worth rebuilding the dosier whilst you have the room..

Basically do as much as you can sensibly afford whilst engine is out and it will pay back in spades..

Good Ruck
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by Way2go »

B-Hive wrote:if these engines have welsh plugs..then replace them,,,
:?: :?
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mat_fenwick
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by mat_fenwick »

Core plugs, or specifically a certain type of core plug...
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by B-Hive »

mat_fenwick wrote:Core plugs, or specifically a certain type of core plug...
we call them welsh plugs here..assuming you are referring to the metal disc like plugs the go into the engine block..
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by Way2go »

B-Hive wrote:
mat_fenwick wrote:Core plugs, or specifically a certain type of core plug...
we call them welsh plugs here..assuming you are referring to the metal disc like plugs the go into the engine block..
Aha....nothing to do with the Welsh but Welch. :)
Wikipedia wrote:According to Nevin Hubbard of the M.D. Hubbard Spring Company, the Welch plug was originally designed in the 1900s by the Welch brothers at the Welch Motor Car Company of Pontiac, Michigan. Hubbard claims that "at that time core holes in the engine blocks were fitted with pipe plugs. During one of these run-ins a pipe plug backed out. In order to get back on the road one of the brothers drove a quarter or half dollar into the hole. From this they developed the Welch plug,
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Re: what to check / replace while the engine's out

Post by rutter123 »

you may consider changing all the 3.5mm metal pipe seals, esp the lower ones around the subframe area, as i have changed pretty much all of mine over the past few years, the old ones had gone hard as plastic, also the fdv seals.
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