Hi
This pipe will need replacing soon, it's only a few microns thick in places. It's on the passenger side of the car and is one of two thicker pipes that run in a straight line from the front to the back.
My questions are: what does it do? is it tricky to change (doesn't look it but you never know)? can it be ordered from GSF or should I get one locally?
Thanks as ever
Oscar
Front to rear (or rear to front) LHM pipe
- Vanny
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feeds (or returns) fluid from the rear suspension/brakes system.
I've not done it, but i doubt its too hard to change, just a case of clip out clip in i suspect.
I believe they can be ordered from GSF but i cant find it in the magazine (usually cant find anything in there though!), don't think there too expensive to buy and fit so long as you do it yourself! Really you need to have ramps or perhaps a good number of axle stands, the higher you can get the car the more room you have to work in!
Y'all be reet!
I've not done it, but i doubt its too hard to change, just a case of clip out clip in i suspect.
I believe they can be ordered from GSF but i cant find it in the magazine (usually cant find anything in there though!), don't think there too expensive to buy and fit so long as you do it yourself! Really you need to have ramps or perhaps a good number of axle stands, the higher you can get the car the more room you have to work in!
Y'all be reet!
- DLM
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I've only ever taken these OFF a BX (cunifer pipes I salvaged from a scrapper but which then fell foul of a moving-house mass clearout).
Replacements about a tenner per pipe from your favourite OEM car parts supplier. As stated above, the pipe unions are not pleasant, and may be well corroded-in. One pipe at a time seems to be the most sensible way to proceed. If making-up these pipes, I'd strongly recommend upping the union nuts to 10mm if possible - it makes the job a lot easier, and they survive corrosion/rounding better. This was what I found on the cunifer pipes, and they were blissfully easy to remove, unlike the 8mm height-corrector unions on a much newer BX.
It's been suggested in the past that the job of threading the pipes under the rear subframe may be easier if the rear subframe is dropped first. As I should be dropping mine shortly for a different reason I'll take a look at the time, if still relevant.
Replacements about a tenner per pipe from your favourite OEM car parts supplier. As stated above, the pipe unions are not pleasant, and may be well corroded-in. One pipe at a time seems to be the most sensible way to proceed. If making-up these pipes, I'd strongly recommend upping the union nuts to 10mm if possible - it makes the job a lot easier, and they survive corrosion/rounding better. This was what I found on the cunifer pipes, and they were blissfully easy to remove, unlike the 8mm height-corrector unions on a much newer BX.
It's been suggested in the past that the job of threading the pipes under the rear subframe may be easier if the rear subframe is dropped first. As I should be dropping mine shortly for a different reason I'll take a look at the time, if still relevant.
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- ken newbold
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Although it may not be relavent now? the pipes can be wiggled through the intended gap but you're better of removing the n/s swing arm, this way you can get them back exactly where they should be. If memory serves as you look at the pipes clipped to the chassis side,
no4 the bottom one is the return pipe from the HC,
no3 second from bottom is the safety valve to HC,
no2 is the rear suspension feed pipe, runs from joint on front subframe to a brass T connectotr on rear subframe,
no1 at the top is the rear brake feed pipe, runs from front subframe to brass T connector on rear subframe.
Hope this info is useful and doesn't put you off. Every BX enthusiast should try this once.
no4 the bottom one is the return pipe from the HC,
no3 second from bottom is the safety valve to HC,
no2 is the rear suspension feed pipe, runs from joint on front subframe to a brass T connectotr on rear subframe,
no1 at the top is the rear brake feed pipe, runs from front subframe to brass T connector on rear subframe.
Hope this info is useful and doesn't put you off. Every BX enthusiast should try this once.
They think it's all over, it is now!
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