Ball Joints/CV Gaiters

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Way2go
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Ball Joints/CV Gaiters

Post by Way2go » Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:21 pm

BXGTi went through MOT almost OK today APART from n/s CV Gaiter. I've not done one of these before but see the procedure in Haynes. Advice from those that have done it before would be welcome. Questions as follows:
1) Seems I need a balljoint separator - what type do I need or should I get?
2) Are there any other special tools needed for the Job?
3) Is there any difference between an £8.25 Gaiter from GSF to a £4.03 Gaiter from CAF?
4) Do you replace rubbers at both ends or just the cv gaiter referred to on the test? (If so is it cheaper to buy a kit somewhere?)
5) Cleaning tips and type of grease to use.
6) Any special "wrinkles" to save time or temper? (Still doing a proper job that will last though!)

Cheers!
1991 BX19GTi Auto

AlanS
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Post by AlanS » Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:51 pm

I use the type that is a scissor type with the open end having a ball receptacle on one side and a solid piece of the other, tensioned by using a spanner. Set it tight and then hit the bolt head with a hammer to shock it apart. Leave the nut partially on the thread so as to save damaging the thread.

Unless you're using a stretch type, you'll need a copper or soft faced hammer to split the joint.
If it's the one with the centre bearing, be extremely careful if you pull the Triax joint apart as there's 90 od needle races in there. Carefully lift out, wrap in a plastic bag and wrap up tightly with duct tape until you're ready to either hold over a clean container to strip, clean, grease and reassemble, or until you are ready to refit depending on how it looks.

Best way to clean is scoop grease out and wash the actual joint in petrol.
They use a supposedly "special" grease but I think Moly grease is the norm.

Have a spare set of hands to hold the wire retainer in when reassembling and be sure to have access to a vice on a bench that is rigid.

I've used stretch types with success but it's bloody hard yakka stretching them over but can be done.
I found over here that stretch type boots seem to be more pliable and as a result seem to last longer, but there's a few tricks that can make that job a bit easier.


Alan S
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jeremy
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Post by jeremy » Thu Mar 16, 2006 10:34 pm

I don't think you need a balljoint splitter as you can do the job by removing the strut from the hub carrier. I haven't done it this way but it has a certain appeal - but I don't know if the track rod ball joint needs to be removed.

RichardW
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Post by RichardW » Fri Mar 17, 2006 8:05 am

As it's the N/S short shaft, it will fall out of the gearbox as soon as you get it out of the hub. So, drain the gear box first, and fit a new oil seal before you refit the shaft. I bought a tub of CV joint grease from the local factors - enough to repack about 500 joints - for £3 :lol:
I NEED a BX TD.

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(CZ)enda
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Post by (CZ)enda » Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:19 am

What Jeremy suggested is the easier method that makes use of BX suspension specialities. It saves one the hassle of releasing the balljoint.

The procedure is roughly this:
1) Release wheel bolts, put suspension to highest position, put stands/blocks of wood just in front of the jacking point, put the lever to the lowest setting. The car will sit on its back with front wheels hanging free. Remove wheels, knock off the track rod end (it is easier than removing the lower balljoint).
Now the fun begins:
2) Turn the bleed screw on the regulator until all the pressure is released.
3) Release and remove the bolts keeping strut in the hub.
4) Push the strut up, secure with wire etc.
5) Hold the shaft firmly, give the hub a good whack from inside at its upper half. It should fall off the shaft quite easily. The hub assembly is left hanging on the balljoint. Remove the old gaiter, put in the new one, secure with clips etc.
6) Perform the steps in reverse order.

I did it this way on 16 TRS and it worked.
The "original" grease for CV joint is MoS2-type grease.


Good luck ! :wink: