Hub Nut, How to loosen........?

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Way2go
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Hub Nut, How to loosen........?

Post by Way2go » Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:34 pm

Just spent a frustrating afternoon attempting to replace the Gaiters on the n/s driveshaft. First task says Haynes - remove driveshaft.

Fell at the first hurdle, attempting to remove the Hub Nut. 35mm socket with 1/2 inch drive. Threads are dry. Tried with extending wheel bar - failed. Tried with manual impact wrench - no noticeable rotation. Back to extending bar - kept tension on bar and smacked socket with hammer - no progress.

Anyone know of any good tips to achieve success loosening this nut?
1991 BX19GTi Auto

jeremy
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Post by jeremy » Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:43 pm

Can you get a cold chisel in there? If you can get one in you may be able to cut the nut. Blade parallel to the stub axle, cut into a flat and aim just to miss the stub axle and its threads. A very sharp cold chisel will cut very effectively!

You will of course need a new nut.

jeremy

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sleepy0905
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Post by sleepy0905 » Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:53 pm

I use a 35mm socket with a 1/2 inch bar and a 6 foot length of scoffold pole never fails but make sure your breaker bar and socket are strong enough or something will shatter they are torqued to 195 foot pounds.
Oh yes make sure the car is on the ground not jacket and in gear + handbrake on hard.
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Tim2cv
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Post by Tim2cv » Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:05 pm

lol, been here, done it! broke my breaker bar! couldnt get it off what ever i tried. In the end i went to my local garage and used their inductrial rattle gun! it worked after abit of persuasion and shearing off the brake disc retaining screws! make sure its in gears and handbrake on before giving it real effort! Think i made a post about it somehwhere before?......
good luck and dont give up! i think you can stick the spare on (if you have alloys) and get the gun and socket to fit through the hole if i remember? might be lying but im sure you can.....

good luck!

TIM
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cauchoiskev
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Post by cauchoiskev » Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:20 pm

If you have access to an arc welder, weld your 35mm socket onto the end of 6 feet of 40mm steel water pipe or similar. No hub nut can resist that baby ! Unless...

Unless it happens to be a 32mm nut, as it is on one side (???) of my estate's driveshafts.

I mangled several 1/2 inch drives before using this solution. They really can't take those levels of torque.

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Tim2cv
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Post by Tim2cv » Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:23 pm

different sized nuts? agh!

Image

I have since bought a Halfrauds one as no matter how many times you break it you can have a free one!
2CV6 1986 Dolly

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DYANE 6 1981 - GF'S CAR!

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Post by AlanS » Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:34 pm

Had one the other day but was at a mates place who is a retired engineer. (Learn a lot of those guys) and he had a length of steel plate about 1/4 - 3/8 thick by an inch wide which was bolted to a second piece formong a "Y" shape. Holes in it were made to take the wheel studs and the bar around 3 foot long then sat on the floor holding the axle very solid and rigid which meant you can either jump on it using a socket on a 3/4" breaker bar (cruel buggers using 1/2" stuff) with a 6 foot length of pipe, my preferred option, or belt it with a lump or sledge hammer without risking busting the brakes or the inevitable shearing off of the screws as described. :roll:


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Tim2cv
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Post by Tim2cv » Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:39 pm

if i understand right then is abit like people use on the 2cv! an old wheel with the bottom cut flat and a plate welded to it, center of the wheel cut out (as 2cv wheels are solid, i.e no central hole), bolt it to the hub and lower car then jump on or smack hell out of it without fear of it falling anywhere!
Ill try and find a picture!
TIM
2CV6 1986 Dolly

MEHARI 1976

DYANE 6 1981 - GF'S CAR!

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Tim2cv
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Post by Tim2cv » Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:46 pm

cant find the one I am on about but this seems very chep and simple!

Image

I think its demonstrated on a rear wheel so not quite the same but yu get the idea!

just bolt up and then use either a breaker or long pole to give effort with!

TIM
2CV6 1986 Dolly

MEHARI 1976

DYANE 6 1981 - GF'S CAR!

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Post by Mr B » Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:54 pm

My method is a borrowed 3/4 drive "T" bar and a 6ft scaffold tube, then hang about 17 stone off the end :wink:

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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold » Mon Mar 20, 2006 10:19 pm

Bought a cheap 3/4 drive socket set from autojumble. No more problems.
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Post by Way2go » Mon Mar 20, 2006 10:44 pm

Hi Folks, I thought my problem might not have been usual but I gather from what you say its to be expected. Just done the sums on 195 ft-lbs and perhaps I have been applying too puny a force with the 20" extendable wheel bar but I was also watching it flex.(had club hammer supporting under bar to ensure socket stayed level. (the 1/2" manual impact driver is obviously a no hoper)

I'm really scratching my head now cos I dont have any scaffold pole and will also need to buy a breaker bar. :?

It's only a 3 spanner job in Haynes, I'm amazed. btw how do you retorque to 195 as my torque wrench stops at 150? :?: Getting ahead of myself as I havent got it off yet :evil:

2 other questions: 1) is it necessary to replace the diff oil seal if its not leaking. 2) Is it necessary to replace the bottom ball-joint having separated it? :?
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Post by ken newbold » Mon Mar 20, 2006 10:57 pm

Answer to question 1, Stand on it.
" " " 2, No but if it decides to leak afterwards you'll wish you had, just take car when refitting the driveshaft and smear gease on the lips of the seal and on the driveshaft.

Question 3. You are supposed to fit a new NUT to the bottom ball joint, I do, if I have one. :wink:
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Post by DavidRutherford » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:13 pm

You can actually be quite clever about "standing on it" to get the torque roughly correct too: weigh yourself, and then stand on the bar at the required number of feet from the hub. This has never failed for me.

As for getting the hub nuts undone in the first place, I concur with everyone else on here, in that you need a 3/4" drive. 1/2" simply isn't man enough, as you not only have the original 195Lb-ft to undo, but also some reminants of staking, and no doubt some corrosion too.

Many years ago I remember undoing a hub-nut on a Pug 106 that was seriously corroded. It took me hanging off the end of 10' of scaffolding pole on a 1" drive socket (borrowed from the local bus depot!) That was 2300 lb-ft of torque to get the bastard to move! :shock:
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Post by Way2go » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:31 pm

I suppose that 2 things are lucky here that the car is an auto so the transmission lock must help and that the steel wheels have an aperture in the centre that allows the socket in with the wheel on.

btw I suppose the transmission lock (Park) cant be damaged by this task of brute force?
1991 BX19GTi Auto