Hub Nut, How to loosen........?

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jeremy
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Post by jeremy » Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:19 am

Yes - will work with a steel wheel - may be a problem with alloys! Its a bit like the old but still widely used method for removing crankshaft pulley bolts - using a good socket and bar and the starter motor.

Looks like I'm going to have to get at least one off my BX soon - perhaps its time to get a 3/4 inch socket set - as the 1/2 inch set is too springy really and the spring makes it jump all over the place when things come undone.

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DavidRutherford
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Post by DavidRutherford » Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:41 am

Way2go wrote:
ellevie wrote:Halfords do a universal split boot suitable for the BX
managed to fit it in the afternoon without dismantling anything!
Just a small word of warning though. Whilst a "stickyboot" will get you through this MOT, they do not last. If you get much more than about 5000 miles out of it, I'll be impressed. Plus, when they fail, they fail catastrophically, leaving the joint completely open to road dirt.

It'll get you mobile again at the moment, but I would change it for a "proper" one as soon as you can.
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Way2go
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Post by Way2go » Thu Mar 23, 2006 1:08 am

Good news! Car sailed through it's MOT retest with the "stickyboot" :D

Question is now whether to return new inner & outer boots and ball joint splitter for credit or to hang on to them for a "next time" :?
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sleepy0905
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Post by sleepy0905 » Thu Mar 23, 2006 8:59 am

My sticky boot only lasted about 2 months before it openend up but it got the car through the mot which was all that mattered.
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Ricky5
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Re: Hub nuts

Post by Ricky5 » Thu Mar 23, 2006 9:08 am

Ricky5 wrote:Have just learnt a great way of loosening these from a seventy year
old retired French motor mechanic.

Method; Front offside Remove retaining pin and collar : Turn steering slightly to the right: Place socket on a breaker bar (Pref 3/4in) With end of bar resting on the ground facing in the forward direction: Start engine: Select 1st gear and inch forward: Hey presto no grunting, sweating, swearing;

Nearside: Same method except position of the bar facing to the rear and engaging reverse gear:

It helps if you can employ some assistance but it can be done solo I have just done it

Rick Bayonne France

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DavidRutherford
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Post by DavidRutherford » Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:19 am

Way2go wrote:Question is now whether to return new inner & outer boots and ball joint splitter for credit or to hang on to them for a "next time" :?
See my post above, and experience from Sleepy. You will need them sooner than you hope!
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Way2go
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Post by Way2go » Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:03 pm

DavidRutherford wrote:
Way2go wrote:hang on to them for a "next time" :?
You will need them sooner than you hope!
Oh dear - this is not positive vibes! :cry:

A cunning plan is called for! 8) Now there is more time available. :)

If someone within reasonable distance has the giant brute force means discussed of Hub nut removal then the nut could be removed, thread greased and refitted/retorqued to go home. Then presumably I will be able to remove it at home with my 1/2" drive comfortably without breaking it ? 8)
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DavidRutherford
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Post by DavidRutherford » Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:30 pm

I would be happy to.... although I am in dorset, which would cost you more in fuel to get to me than it would to buy a bar and socket....
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Stewart (oily!)
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Post by Stewart (oily!) » Fri Mar 24, 2006 12:30 am

When I need to undo/remove those in a scrapyard situation, ie no wheels, brakes etc using my battery drill Ihe narrow part of the nut and using a sharp chisel split the nut, I save spare ones to replace, new ones come with wheelbeareing kits etc
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