citaerobics

OwenS · Post by **OwenS** » Fri Aug 05, 2005 4:42 pm

When I perfom Citaerobics on the BX and put it to its lowest level as its just about to settle down to the ground one side settles just before the other, kinda like 'thump' 'thump'.........is this something to worry about or is it just stiff/sticking front struts in nees of the lhm struts lube?

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Fri Aug 05, 2005 5:44 pm

The BX hydraulic system can not compensate uneven loads side to side. Only thing to control this is the ARB.

When you sit in the car - there is a larger load on the one side of car. The thumping is fully normal as the suspension goes to rest on the rubber stops.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Sat Aug 06, 2005 8:06 am

Whats important is that the car sits level at the normal ride height. It sounds as though one or more of your struts is past its best if it sticks as you drop the car. Lubrication may help or maybe its time to replace the strut.

jeremy

cavmad · Post by **cavmad** » Sat Aug 06, 2005 9:28 am

Ian Fern has a cracking repair for this which I`m going to try later if I can sort out my other hydraulic issues. It involves lubing the struts with LHM fluid and he says it`s the best way to do it and I have no reason to doubt him.

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Sat Aug 06, 2005 10:18 am

thats a very old school idea simply lubing the struts, one thats been around for years. These days the solution if in two parts. Internal lubrication using the 'sucking up method' and continuous external lubrication of the strut.

External lubrication is done by tie rapping a piece of towel or cloth to the strut under the gator then putting LHM/engine oil on it to keep it permanantly lubed as the car goes up and down!

Sucking up method basically involves putting the car on low, pulling off the leak of pipe behind the strut and sticking them in a container of LHM, then raising the suspension thus sucking up the LHM to the inside of the strut!

Not done the sucking up method yet, but the towel method DID dtop mine creaking on the way up and down!

cavmad · Post by **cavmad** » Sat Aug 06, 2005 10:22 am

Phew! That was timely Vanny! I`ve just p.m`d Ian as I lost his instructions for doing this. I`m about to go out and have a go at repairing my suspension and was going to have a go at the `sucking up` repair whilst there.
Can you please explain in layman`s terms exactly where the pipe I need to remove is? Also if I jack the car up and remove the front wheels (one at a time) for easier access is it safe to drop the car to lowest height whilst on the jack? I`ve never jacked my Citroen up before and assumed it would be best to do it on full height on the suspension?

image1990 · Post by **image1990** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:26 pm

Hi all,

Yet another (very very old) post resurrection, I'm afraid. I need to replace one of the front strut returns after a bit of sucking up LHM last weekend revealed just how perished the old one was - even more of a puddle on the tarmac than usual... As cavmad asked way back in 2005, is it safe to jack the car up and remove a wheel at the lowest height setting? Also, any tricks for getting the weird clip in place round the strut? I'm anticipating a fight with that one...

Thanks!

Ian_Fearn · Post by **Ian_Fearn** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:35 pm

cavmad wrote:Ian Fern has a cracking repair for this which I`m going to try later if I can sort out my other hydraulic issues. It involves lubing the struts with LHM fluid and he says it`s the best way to do it and I have no reason to doubt him.

I have to say that its not my idea but it does work wonders for old struts.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:42 pm

You ma be able to get the clip on - and it could be that a blunt pair of carpenters pincers are the tool. I used a large jubilee clip when I did one many years ago.

You can't get a jack underneath the front when the suspension is low - and even when you have got one in you probably wont have anough room to operate it properly.

If you do manage to get the jack underneath the car the wheel will drop as the car is raised as the strut is simply powered in extension, not retraction. However the anti-roll bars can cause many styrange things to happen including the dissappearing back hub when you try to change a wheel, and also the raising of a back wheel when a front one is raised and the suspension drops.

BE CAREFUL - These cars can KILL

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 10:08 pm

jeremy wrote: I used a large jubilee clip when I did one many years ago.

Large ty-wraps are another alternative when used in conjunction with the metal plate off the old clips.

roscoe · Post by **roscoe** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 4:42 am

I lube my front struts on the TZD every few months and it only takes a few minutes - but a helper is very handy! I drive the car up on ramps, drop it to full low, pull the strut return lines off one side at a time, stick them in a small jar full of LHM, and my helper raises and lowers it a few times, finishing off with the car on full height. I then stick the return lines back on, do the other side and that's it. Usually pull the upper gaiters down at the same time and give the strut rods a wipe with an LHM-soaked rag as well. Struts are nice and quiet, and very little 'stickiness' to them.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 8:17 am

Just about anything is better than using LHM - it just doesn't stay there - I've even found 3 in 1 is beter and in fact was quite good when dribbled through the holes at the top of the strut,

image1990 · Post by **image1990** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 8:53 am

If you do manage to get the jack underneath the car the wheel will drop as the car is raised as the strut is simply powered in extension, not retraction. However the anti-roll bars can cause many styrange things to happen including the dissappearing back hub when you try to change a wheel, and also the raising of a back wheel when a front one is raised and the suspension drops.

BE CAREFUL - These cars can KILL

Thanks for the reminder jeremy - I've absolutely no intention of attempting anything like this unless I'm sure it's safe. No point getting squashed for the sake of a 700 euro car... Would axel stands be the answer here?

Stewart (oily!) · Post by **Stewart (oily!)** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:08 am

I have performed the strut lube trick with the balljoint/wishbone supported on a timber block to give approximately the same height as if the wheel was on, this felt quite secure.
Stewart

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:28 am

I hesitate to recommend anything but on the understanding that I am not in any way liable - yes probably.

The problem with these cars is that they move around as the suspension collapses - and so what was stable with the back up isn't safe 20 minutes later when the back drops.

Personally I never trust the thing and if I'm getting under the middle - then its an axle stand taking the weight, a wheel ramp under the door sill and the trolley jack left raised but not bearing much weight. - get the idea - prop it up somewhere and an emergency prop isn't usually too difficult to arrange - like the wheelramp under the sill.

They are more dangerous than your normal car - partly due I'm sure to the suspension moving after the car has been jacked up and is apparently secured.