Strut Tops

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Ian_Fearn
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Strut Tops

Post by Ian_Fearn » Sun Jun 18, 2006 9:20 pm

Whats the best way of removing the big nut on top of the strut?
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sleepy0905
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Post by sleepy0905 » Sun Jun 18, 2006 9:25 pm

I use a 3/4 inch socket set and a 36mm socket with a 6 foot scaffold pole for leavarage loosen the nut while the strut is bolted to the car and the wheel on the ground.
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Post by Ian_Fearn » Sun Jun 18, 2006 9:28 pm

I seem to remember trying this about 3 years ago but the strut turned as the nut turned.
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Post by sleepy0905 » Sun Jun 18, 2006 9:39 pm

Doh my fault you need a 6mm bar then remove the sphere and insert the bar in the hole this stops the stansion from rotating sorry forgot that inportant bit :oops: :oops:
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Post by Ian_Fearn » Sun Jun 18, 2006 9:40 pm

Will a drill bit do or do i need to get a bar made up at work?
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Post by sleepy0905 » Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:12 pm

no a drill bit should be fine but if you have already rotated the stantion you may have to rotate it to line the holes up do this with the socket and breaker bar and turn it till you can get the drill in.
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Post by Ian_Fearn » Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:15 pm

nice one, cheers Aaron
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Post by ellevie » Sun Jun 18, 2006 11:57 pm

Ian, are you having a go at rebuilding or refurbishing the strut using seals and slide bearings as mentioned on the tramontana site ?
http://www.tramontana.co.hu/citroen/sus ... ension.php
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Post by jeremy » Mon Jun 19, 2006 7:02 am

Ideally you need a large ring spanner for the nut and a hex socket to stop the strut turning. Large rings are expensive!

When I undid mine I was fortunate and it started to loosen before I turned it very far. My local accessory shop kindly lent me the socket which If I recall correctly is NOT the same size as the hub nut one.

Quite an easy job when you've got that nut undone. Remember to clean up the hub socket at the base of the strut before re-fitting and a bit of grease and a crafty stretch of the split won't hurt.

I was surprised that the new strut did not come with the (2?) 'O' ring seals at the top. I re-used the old ones which has been ok but would rather have used new.

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Strut tops.

Post by Geoffrey Gould » Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:46 am

Hi If anyone needs a piece of round bar that is reasonably tough and not brittle ( drill bits are very hard but very brittle also ) then any tool/steel stockest should have round silver steel bar. The shortest length is 13". It is available in sizes from almost a few thous to inches thick. Metric and imperial and ground to an exact size.
It's "soft" enough to file, thread and work.
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Post by ellevie » Mon Jun 19, 2006 7:37 pm

Ian, please ignore my question above --- I've realised that you must be installing a brand new strut.
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Post by Ian_Fearn » Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:04 pm

I've swapped a strut before but i had another unit complete with strut top to refit hence i didnt have to undo the 36mm nut.

I've just had a look, it doesnt look like its gonna shift easily.
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Post by Brian » Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:19 pm

Hi,

If you have access to an air driver, this works every time..

Cheers

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Post by Ian_Fearn » Tue Jun 20, 2006 7:38 pm

Another job sucessfully done.

I did it by putting a 6mm drill wrapped in masking tape bit through the strut whilst it was in my vice

A huge breaker bar plus a 2 foot extension cracked the nut.

I'd rate that job as significantly easier than the rear arm bearing but again the vice helped matters.

Many thanks for the advice :)
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Post by AndersDK » Thu Jun 22, 2006 7:00 pm

ellevie wrote:Ian, please ignore my question above --- I've realised that you must be installing a brand new strut.
Just did the struts on my TurboTuRD. Whats up ?
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