new bx owner needs help

BX Tech talk
timbo
Confirmed BX'er
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 5:14 pm
Location: Swansea

Post by timbo » Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:46 pm

hi everybody... just got back from Lloyds auto repairs. They have not done a full check but so far the repairs are going to be something like this:
tuneup
service
front struts/membranes etc
rear bearings (260 pounds total)
timing belt (130 pounds)
oil leak from rocker cover

check brakes
possibly replace clutch

need to repair rust in boot and front fender (under bonnet)

A full list will be given when it has it's check on the 11th of this month...
Feel free to comment on what costs I should expect/can expect or feel free to comment anyway
:D

User avatar
sleepy0905
1K Away
1K Away
Posts: 1394
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2005 9:23 am
Location: Birchwood, Lincoln

Post by sleepy0905 » Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:58 pm

Hi PM sent
2014 Citroen C4 1.6 eHDI Selection Special edition 115Bhp

User avatar
Oscar
1K Away
1K Away
Posts: 1091
Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 5:07 pm
Location: Driving a ZX

Post by Oscar » Wed Jul 05, 2006 2:01 pm

Welcome to the forum

If you are technically minded and equipped, then rear bearings and timing belt can be done yourself, and there is loads of info on this site. As far as cost goes, the prices look about right, which is why most of us do our own work.

Good luck with this. THe most satisfying ownership will be if you get your own hands dirty, but even if you don't the BX is a great car to own and drive.

Oscar
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"

timbo
Confirmed BX'er
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 5:14 pm
Location: Swansea

Post by timbo » Wed Jul 05, 2006 5:08 pm

afraid it's not an option.. have nowhere to work on it, have no tools and am not that mechanicaly minded... can do some things but i wouldn't dare start something major. I look at it this way. I got a car for free. I was prepared to spend 400/500 pound on a car and then spend several more on any needed repairs. as i got the car for free i can afford to spend a few more pounds on those repairs and maybe end up with a good car for a few years ... i just hope it will be worth it ... it is a beut little car though

:lol:

User avatar
mnde
Meteor Man
Posts: 1453
Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 5:10 pm
Location: Old Woking, Surrey

Post by mnde » Wed Jul 05, 2006 5:34 pm

jonkw wrote:Hi
You need to pull out the ashtray and the coin holder.
Pull the heater control knobs off and there are two screws underneath. Remove these before the vents and then to remove the air vents lever the right hand clip towards the centre of the car. Pull the tab forward and then do the same with the left hand clip. The vents will then come out and you can then remove the heater control assembly.
Just a thought - Didn't someone say somewhere that you have to be extra careful when removing the heater control panel because of spring clips that are apt to go pinging off into the furthest recess of the BX interior....?

Welcome to the BXClub Timbo! :)

Mark.
1982 Citroen GSA Spécial Estate
1997 Renault Mégane RT 1.4e
1991 Citroen BX16 TGS Meteor - gone to Scotland

User avatar
Bluey1978
Confirmed BX'er
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:42 pm
Location: Wet, miserable,Carrot Crunching, Suffolk

Post by Bluey1978 » Wed Jul 05, 2006 6:03 pm

Hi Mate,

Just a thought with regards to your rust in the boot, is this the notorious corner where the exhaust peg is located. As this seems a bit of a hot spot for rust and is worth checking sooner then later - unless you want to be dragging your exhaust home.
If this is the where the rusty area is then some garden wire could be an extra addition to your cars tool box.....

If this point goes it can lead to some drastic welding being done in order to repair the corner and replace the exhaust peg, as the need to grind back to good metal can lead to quite a reasonable hole being produced.

The rust seems to vary and no one model seems to be worst than others, from what I've gathered anyway.

Likewise, its worth checking this peg area and if everything is fine then a regular clean to keep it mud free will certainly help. The exhaust does have a little movement in this area and you should be able to prise the rubber from the peg to ensure a good clean.

Bearings can be tricky, but as previously noted - they are definetly worth having a go yourself, or approaching a buddy to give you a hand, as its the garage's labour costs that will kill you.

Good luck with your ownership. :lol:
Previous owner of a 1988 BX19 RD & Previous BX Meteor & Xantia Owner.
1995 Toyota Estima Lucida X Diesel

User avatar
DLM
Our Trim Guru
Posts: 1569
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 6:41 pm
Location: Gosport, Hampshire, UK
My Cars: None since the last BX.
x 1

Post by DLM » Wed Jul 05, 2006 6:06 pm

Timbo - I know Lloyd as I used him for some BX jobs when last living in Swansea. His work is very good indeed - but not especially cheap. He is the only Citroen specialist I've come across who actually owned and drove a BX (he had a red 16v which was his pride and joy).

If there are things you can't do yourself, which are MOT/safety items, then it may be worth paying the premium. He did a BX head gasket for me about 5 years ago which was still going strong when that car was retired 3 years and 45,000 miles later, and demonstrated the correct way to bleed a PSA engine as well.

He sometimes had BXs for sale, but may have given up on that now.

You also have another very good Citroen specialist in Swansea - Stadium motors, who I never used - but their work comes highly recommended from the Citroen owners I spoke to.
Relying on two wheels and musclepower since the last BX (or any car) had to go.

User avatar
DLM
Our Trim Guru
Posts: 1569
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 6:41 pm
Location: Gosport, Hampshire, UK
My Cars: None since the last BX.
x 1

Post by DLM » Wed Jul 05, 2006 6:14 pm

As for the heater, if the knob isn't turning fully, the golden rule is DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. If you do, you'll either break the backing panel for the heater/ventilatior controls, or cause problems at the flap end. I've been there (in fact, I've got a similar situation at the moment, which I suspect is because of the other end of the ventilator cable - the flap end).

Also, don't disconnect any of the clips at the back of the ventilator/heater panel unless you've got a very good reason to do so - you'll get skinned knuckles and turn the air blue very quickly.
Relying on two wheels and musclepower since the last BX (or any car) had to go.

timbo
Confirmed BX'er
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 5:14 pm
Location: Swansea

Post by timbo » Wed Jul 05, 2006 6:17 pm

yeah i might have to pay to get the work done but he seems a good chap. I have had a look at the rust and yes it is above the exhaust. As for the removal of the heater controls etc... well i have removed the ash tray and coin box and cannot go any further. The two screwss underneath are a allen head design and i don't have anything to fit it... so near and yet so far. The fan control works well now after a bit of use. It does go up on high (with a click under the steering column). But still no air comes through the vents no matter where i turn the control. There must be a flap closed somewhere. I pulled the cable(which i can just see in the footwell) and it reduces the fan speed. The fan control will not return to that last white line about 2 oclock on the dial. I don't want to force it though.
:cry:

User avatar
Bluey1978
Confirmed BX'er
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:42 pm
Location: Wet, miserable,Carrot Crunching, Suffolk

Post by Bluey1978 » Wed Jul 05, 2006 6:38 pm

Most of the screw fittings on the BX are of TORX fitment, these being a star fitting as opposed to a pozi-drive or socket head screw fitting (allen key type fitting). They seem unique as its very hard to get anything else to fit them which gives good purchase on the screw/bolt.

Most motor factors sell reasonably priced driver sets which comprise of a screw driver which takes the various screw tips, make sure you get the one that has the torx as most are flat blade and pozi fittings. The cheaper the set - the softer the material, personally I try to avoid the ratchet type sets as these seem to vary greatly in the quality of the ratchet.

Failing this purchase a set of torx drivers, they are not expensive and will cover all the sizes the BX can throw at you.

At the end it all comes down to price - you do tend to get what you pay for, so dont expect top quality for a set that costs peanuts, though some will 'do the job'. :wink:

Perhaps other members could offer some advice on what makes seems good value for money. Most of mine are Draper or Kamasa, which shows I am not a serious mechanic - alot of my my father-in-laws tools are at the higher end of the market ie Snap-On etc. Surely there must be reasonable priced tools out there for the budding Citroen mechanic. :lol:
Previous owner of a 1988 BX19 RD & Previous BX Meteor & Xantia Owner.
1995 Toyota Estima Lucida X Diesel

timbo
Confirmed BX'er
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 5:14 pm
Location: Swansea

Post by timbo » Wed Jul 05, 2006 6:51 pm

cheers for that... in the poor light i swore it was an allen head on the screws... but what you have just told me has saved me a lot of time playing around ... i will head of tomorrow and get a set

timbo
Confirmed BX'er
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 5:14 pm
Location: Swansea

Post by timbo » Wed Jul 05, 2006 10:30 pm

i have also given the heater/fan control/direction knobs a gentle tug to see if they come free... they don't... is this due to a hidden spring clip as mentioned earlier??

User avatar
Bluey1978
Confirmed BX'er
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:42 pm
Location: Wet, miserable,Carrot Crunching, Suffolk

Post by Bluey1978 » Wed Jul 05, 2006 11:08 pm

From memory. I seem to remember a couple of 'hidden screws' accessed through the ashtray/coin holder section, though will confer with Haynes,

According to the Haynes BOL, you need to have removed 2 screws where the knobs are aswell as pop out the ventalation direction grilles, disconnect the wire from cigar lighter, then undo 4 screws which are attached to the inner control unit.

This unit needs to be removed with the heater unit, unless you detach all the controls at the heater.

Hope this helps, remember BOL stands for Book Of Lies, so dont be surprised to find everything is not straightfoward, plus its a Citroen, so add another 1/2 hour, LOL.

Good Luck and watch those knuckles..... :lol:
Previous owner of a 1988 BX19 RD & Previous BX Meteor & Xantia Owner.
1995 Toyota Estima Lucida X Diesel

timbo
Confirmed BX'er
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 5:14 pm
Location: Swansea

Post by timbo » Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:06 am

do the heater control knobs just pull off then? There are no visible screws at all other than the two behind the coinbox/ashtray. Are they under the control knobs themselves?

User avatar
mat_fenwick
Moderator
Posts: 7264
Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2005 4:08 pm
Location: North Wales
x 13

Post by mat_fenwick » Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:49 pm

timbo wrote:do the heater control knobs just pull off then? There are no visible screws at all other than the two behind the coinbox/ashtray. Are they under the control knobs themselves?
Yes and yes! You may struggle to pull the knobs off with fingers - I use a pair of pliers with cloth to prevent marking of the knob.