New brake valve needed

BX Tech talk
Dmitry
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New brake valve needed

Post by Dmitry » Fri Aug 11, 2006 8:49 am

Sorry for disturbing, dear Forum.
My old BX19TD needs new brake valve. Local dealers ask too much (Murmansk, Russia). Otherwise I have some own effective delivery schemes in Europe.
Could you please advise some hydraulics supplier in UK (or somewhere else around) who can offer reasonable price?
Thanks in advance.

tom
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Post by tom » Fri Aug 11, 2006 9:07 am

Dmitry, you are not disturbing us in the slightest! Welcome and greetings to all BX drivers in Murmansk. We have a company called GSF who can get a new one for around 150 euros or another called euro car parts. It may also be that a member here has a good secondhand unit as well. Good luck!

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Post by pitman » Fri Aug 11, 2006 9:58 am

BX Leader 19 Diesel - 1986

jeremy
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Post by jeremy » Fri Aug 11, 2006 10:31 am

Dmitry

Welcome to the forum.

What's gone wrong with your brake valve? - The reason I ask is that its often blamed when in fact another component is at fault.

Dmitry
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Post by Dmitry » Fri Aug 11, 2006 10:51 am

The rear of a car sinks too fast - I think due to sufficient internal valve leakage. Besides pushing pedal causes specific noise.
And finally hydraulic pump "switches to load" too often - every 5-7 seconds.
I belive problem is not only the valve, but maybe regulator as wll.

PS Thanks to all

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Post by jeremy » Fri Aug 11, 2006 11:00 am

I'm fairly certain that the valve is the one bit which is not at fault.

It sounds as though the accumulator sphere is defective. To test start the car, let it get to normal height and idle there for a couple of minutes. Turn off the engine and sit in the boot. The car should drop by 150mm or so then after 30 seconds - rise to its original height. If it does not - suspect the accumulator.

Noises apparently from the brake valve are a sign of gas (either air or from a sphere) in the system. The only place air can get in is the reservoir - pump hose and its usually the ends which are not clipped properly or have been damaged when removed and re-fitted. The pipe itself can be replaced for diagnostic purposes only with a section of clean garden hose.

Sometimes you can see air bubbles (lots of them) in the reservoir or a green milk like emulsion in there.

pitman
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Post by pitman » Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:44 pm

Dmitry wrote:The rear of a car sinks too fast - I think due to sufficient internal valve leakage.
Hi Dmitry,

how fast is "too fast"? 8)

Our BX sinks down on the rear in about 2 - 4 hours. Surely, due to a worn valve. But this problem is only cosmetical, if it sinks within a certain time, let's say within an hour or so, that's OK for a car with old valves. It has no technical implications.

The brake pedal always causes a noise when pressed down. Actually, I don't hear it but it's a common source of confusion for people when they are new to Citroën cars.

It is only a small "pscchtt" or it is something different?

The "switches to load - too often" are those clicks or clacks you are hearing when the car is idling.

This is "almost always" a worn accumulator sphere. I don't know if you want to do it yourself but it's fairly easy with the appropriate instructions. Most important is not to use too much force when putting the sphere on - only by hand - as it gets more tightened when the hydraulic system is under pressure.
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Dmitry
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Post by Dmitry » Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:45 pm

Well, Jeremy, I'm expecting to check low pres. pipes fitted on reservoir for leakage on weekend and will check things you have described.
Will report on monday and attack your brains once again what's wrong to my vehicle OK?

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Post by pitman » Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:56 pm

Good luck and take care. Always use axle stands or like that when under the car.
:)
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jeremy
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Post by jeremy » Fri Aug 11, 2006 2:10 pm

Sinking speed is not important - but is affected by the condition of the rear height corrector, and also the accumulator sphere - which will top it up as the car sinks and the height corrector opens. The rear cylinders may also leak a bit but this is not common.

The regulator shoud tick at 30 seconds + with a good sphere and the rest of the system in good condition. The condition of the non-return valve on the accumulator face of the regulator will also affect things - and the good news is that you can re-seat it for free.

Its a ball bearing valve held in place by the flat plate you see when you take the accumulator sphere off. To re-seat it - remove the plate (1 bolt) and collect the ball (which will drop out easily) Stick the ball back in its hole with a dab of grease and tap it smartly ONCE only with a brass punch, then re-assemble.

You must use a brass ended punch - not steel - which may put a flat on the ball and prevent it sealing. You must only hit it once - more than once will make another seat for every blow, and many seats partially overlapping will be as bad or worse than what you started with.

I have done my TD BX one with the regulator in the car, from underneath. The result is a ticking interval so long that I loose interest in timing it.

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Post by Oscar » Fri Aug 11, 2006 3:19 pm

Privet Dmitry

tell us a little about what it's like driving in Murmansk. What precautions do you need to cope with temperature extremes? How does the car stand up to the condition of the roads? Do you think the BX is a suitable car for Russian conditions?

Oscar
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Post by Barnsley BXer » Fri Aug 11, 2006 6:17 pm

Welcome Dmitry.This is truly an International Forum
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cauchoiskev
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Post by cauchoiskev » Fri Aug 11, 2006 6:42 pm

Well, I hate to disagree with Jeremy on a technical issue, but my estate had exactly the symptoms described by Dmitry : rear end dropping, fast ticking, and a hissing noise while braking. All these problems were solved by replacing the brake doseur with a lower mileage one.

If there's a decent trickle from the brake leakage return, I think the brake doseur is probably the culprit.

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Post by cavmad » Fri Aug 11, 2006 7:07 pm

Welcome along Dmitry, I`m sure you`ll have your car sorted out in no time with the help of the fine people on here.
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