How do you replace CV boots?

adamskibx · Post by **adamskibx** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:39 am

I thought this was a DIY job, but I cant fathom it out. The only time ive done them before was with the ones that stick together as I was in a rush for an MOT. I looked in the haynes, and it tells you to revert to a dealer or something. I assume you have to split the joint somehow?

Cheers, Adam

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:45 am

This depends on whether the outer CV joint is seperatable. Some models are, some aren't.

If it is a seperatable outer CV, then you bash the cv joint with a copper faced hammer, and the snap ring holding the CV joint on collapses, allowing the joint to slide off the shaft splines.

If the outer is not seperatable, then you have to pull the whole shaft out of the car, seperate the inner joint (which is usually just a floating fit) and then slide the new boot on all the way down the shaft. (which is a right pain)

There is also the alternative of using a stretch-boot, which can have the little end stretched (with appropriate tooling) over the joint. There's a fairly high risk of splitting the boot with this method though.

tim leech · Post by **tim leech** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 11:07 am

My 16v has a knackered CV joint so thats not going to be a job for me to do then, how long does it take to fit a new CV? Any ideas of the cost.

adamskibx · Post by **adamskibx** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 11:27 am

Cheers David. I had the whole driveshaft off yesterday to change the clutch, and wanted to do it there and then, but I couldnt leave the car where it was, it was getting dark, and I needed to get somewhere, so I made the decision to leave it till today. Luckily its the N/S shaft. When the whole thing was off, it looked like the inner joint would just come apart, but it was snagging at the last bit, and wouldnt do it. Ill see if I can do the outer one with the copper hammer method now, as there are splines there, so hopefully it is a seperable one.

Cheers, Adam

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 12:46 pm

Make sure you have a tray underneath as the n/s driveshaft has a tendancy to want come out while you're removing the gaiter.

I sometimes put a good pair of vicegrips round the driveshaft/behind the antiroll bar link, this helps it stay in place.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 3:05 pm

DavidRutherford wrote:This depends on whether the outer CV joint is seperatable. Some models are, some aren't.

All BX CV joints can be separated or removed from the axle ?
They are locked to the axle by a circlip only.

adamskibx · Post by **adamskibx** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 4:40 pm

Cheers again guys. Its easy when you know how and I know how now thanks to David. I didnt have a copper hammer to hand so I just placed a square section of a scrappy old mudguard to cusion the blow. It worked a treat

Then it just pops back in with equal force.

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 4:43 pm

AndersDK wrote:All BX CV joints can be separated or removed from the axle ?
They are locked to the axle by a circlip only.

Beg to differ on this one Anders, some of the 93/94 models seem tohave a different shaft in them and the cv joint doesn't come off, they also have a different number of splines on the shaft, so they won't interchange with the standard ones.

To qoute David R "they're a right pain in the @r5e"

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 8:21 pm

ken newbold wrote:
AndersDK wrote:All BX CV joints can be separated or removed from the axle ?
They are locked to the axle by a circlip only.
Beg to differ on this one Anders, some of the 93/94 models seem tohave a different shaft in them and the cv joint doesn't come off,

I *think* that all TU (later 14 engine) models also have non-seperatable joints. Certainly all TU engined 306's do, as do TU engined AX/Paxo's

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:04 am

bloody hell, this subject sounds like a bit of a mine field!

When i did one on the 19rd it didnt take my dad and i too long to do the swap of the actual boot (normal type) but it sounds more like i fluked to get it right!

I guess it probably took about three hours in total, but i can happily say i didnt have a clue what i was doing! We did get the CV off the shaft without too much bother and i guess if i did it again i could probably do one in an hour? Don't know exact cost, but when they used to be done by the local specialist, they didnt cost too much!

Post by **docchevron** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:58 am

Vanny wrote:bloody hell, this subject sounds like a bit of a mine field!

i guess if i did it again i could probably do one in an hour? Don't know exact cost, but when they used to be done by the local specialist, they didnt cost too much!

Once you've done 3-4000 you can do it in 30 mins easy.
Cost is about £7 for a boot round here. Cheap as chips.

Cheers
Chris G

roscoe · Post by **roscoe** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:00 pm

I've got one to do (outer CV) on my TZD n/s this weekend - exactly where do you hit the CV joint to get it apart? I've got 16V front axles in my car - out of my parts car as the original TZD ones had loose CV joints and the 16V ones were in better shape - guess it would have been wise to put new boots on before I put them in.

The drive shafts are for ABS as well - does that make any difference?

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:41 pm

ABS shafts will be the same to deal with - just may need different boots.

You want to get the joint off the shaft - so its the metal part of the joint itself you hit - not the outer bit which swivels.

Be careful - the inner bit can come disengaged and the bearings fall out - you can replace them but with 176 or something of them its a job best avoided.