the dreaded heavy steering

BX Bandit · Post by **BX Bandit** » Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:44 am

I think a dodgy ram is fairly common but I it is an obvious fault as the LHM passes the seal and p*sses out the end. As far as I know there was not a problem with mine but I replaced it anyway because I was fedup with crawling under the car every 5 minutes. You are welcome to try mine if you wish.
The belt should be F tight, but I would not use undue leverage incase of excessive force on the pump bearings

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 10:59 am

shh i'm thinking

is the next logical step steering ram replacement???

what do you lot think if belt and fd are all ok???

i have put hydyaflush in but am not holding my breath

charlie

bx bandit have pm'ed you

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 11:39 am

Ram failure is virtually unknown - so - unless it has a piston which has fallen off (can happen on ZX - but I've never heard of it on a BX) - what else can it be?

How were your 'known good' pumps tested?

Drive belt must be really good and tight especially for diesels. To check for slip you could put a mark on the belt and pulley and watch to see if they move relatively to each other. Also worth looking at the pulleys to make sure they are still in good order and for example on a diesel, the belt is not sitting in the bottom of the V as the pulley has worn/bent.

BX Bandit · Post by **BX Bandit** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 10:30 am

I was thinking for ages about this last night

but I can't quite get my head round it.

To check for slip you could put a mark on the belt and pulley and watch to see if they move relatively to each other

Surely, that would only work if the belt were a whole number of revolutions longer than the circumference of the pulley. Clearly the belt is longer, so if its 2x as long, the marks would line up every other revolution of the pulley. If its 2x + 'a bit' then then it could take many pulley revolutions to line up. So in which case, it may appear that the belt is slipping when it isn't - a possible red herring. I'm not claiming I'm right btw, it was just my logic so someone please put me straight if my brain has let me down again

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 10:56 am

The idea simply is that when the chalked bit of belt passes over the pulley there is a reference mark somewhere on the pulley to compare it with. To cause these problems the belt slip must be substantial and shouldn't be hard to spot.

In fact it will probably squeal but to be able to eliminate belt slip will be handy.

BX Bandit · Post by **BX Bandit** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 8:49 pm

Just a thought anyone - would a dud accumulator sphere have an impact on the availability of power for the steering?

As I understand it, the accum sphere is a reservior of pressure, so could it be if its knackered, the pump itself can't keep up with the demands when steering.

Charlie, do you know the history of the accumulator sphere? Or, to put it another way, how often is the relief valve lifting when the car is level, no brakes/steering and with engine running? If its every 7 seconds or less then it may have an impact on your steering.....Mine is only a few months old so we could do a swap and see if it makes a difference

Please, if anyone knows otherwise then put me straight

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:10 pm

Bandit - the circuit is reservoir, pump, fdv-pas, fdv-regulator-accumulator - rest of car.

You will see that the accumulator is the other side of the FDV and the regulator - and consequently is I think right out of the steering circuit.

My own experience is that the pump is the problem - mine worked properly when I purchased a recon one from GSF some years ago. Not cheap - but worth it.

BX Bandit · Post by **BX Bandit** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:28 am

Thats good info jeremy/jonkw - perhaps it was the hydraflush that sorted mine out then, I didn't play with the FDV. There was plenty of crud in the filters when I changed the fluid back to LHM so that may have 'cleaned' the FDV filters. Having said that, the problem was on my original rack, now I have a replacement fitted all is well.

Where do the brakes fit into the circuit? I also understood there to be a 'safety valve' which would prioritise brakes in the event of hydraulic pressure failure. Is there a ranking, so if there is sufficient pressure, the steering gets some too? The only hyd problems I've had are leaky return pipes and leaky pinion on pas rack so I've never had to dip my toes into cit hydraulics that much - this is useful stuff...

ianselva · Post by **ianselva** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:28 am

I have a bit of a problem with my power steering . Basically the assistance is variable for the first mile or so, when cold. I'm thinking it may be the filters blocked it the FDV and although I asked the local garage to change / flush the LHM at last service I see there was no charge for flushing fluid or instructions to put back LHM. So I'm about to flush it myself . Is there any preferred way to drain the old fluid or is just a case of opening any bleed valve.

Cheers

Ian

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 11:23 am

Ian - as Jon states above the classic problem with a worn pump is that the steering doesn't work when cold - you may have a sticking pump piston which the flush may sort out but its probably a new pump.

Steering takes a high volume of high prssure LHM - so the pump may seem ok for the rest of the system but can't cope with the steering.

Bandit

After the accumulator the LHM passes to the safety valve which also operates the warning light. The construction of the valve is such that all available LHM is available for the front brakes at all times, and when sufficient pressure is available, the valve opens, turns off the light and allows flow to the front and rear suspension. The rear brakes are fed directly from the rear suspension circuit - thus achieving load compensation.

The 2 suspension circuits are in turn controlled by the height correctors - and so once the correct height has been achieved are in effect isolated as the height corrector valve shuts - until it opens again due to leakage or load change.

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 11:58 am

right where to start...

acc sphere changed about three years ago..

no external leaks..

checked return pipes for leaks and only droplets found..

regulator kicks in random at intervals, minutes...

hp pump, a plaides reconditioned one, fitted about three years ago...

fd stripped down, no real dirt and filters clean and unbroken...

hy flush now in system but no change yet in steering..

belt tight, but will tighten further when rain stops...

dont have a garage so all work is on street outside house

never really suffered from cold/heavy steering but steering could be notchy for the first turn on start up, but then power kicked in..

the fustrating part is not that it doesn't work but pinpointing what bit is knackered....

charlie

BX Bandit · Post by **BX Bandit** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:56 am

Right, I'm popping down to see Charlie this afternoon and he's pulling his hair out with his dreaded heavy steering.

So, Charlie has replaced the pump and FDV (new unit). The dreaded heavy steering remains. Talking to Doc yesterday, there are two remaining culprits...ram and pinion valve...highly suspect the latter (can there be an 'internal' leak on the ram?)

Doc, you mentioned a fairly easy if not messy test to determine which...can you indulge me cos I forgot the details.

If it is a new pinion valve, is it a case of repair or is it replacement rack time?

Thanks guys...sorry to hijack your post charlie

Post by **docchevron** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 11:52 am

aye, crack off the two pipes that go between the pinion and ram. Engine running, turn the steering, LHM should pi$$ out of it. If it doesn't, you got probs!

Pinions are easy enough to change, I've done a few now!

Obviousley, if your venturing under the car, take ALL the usual precautions when working on hydraulicly sprung cars.

Cheers
Chris G

BX Bandit · Post by **BX Bandit** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:16 pm

Thanks doc - so if the fluid don't pi$$ out it's def the pinion (is it pinion valve?) or could it still be ram?
Is it:
1) Available from GSF or the like?
2) I Take it the rack remains in situ?
3) Any special tools to do the job?

Cheers