). For something that is supposedly an easy job, I found it perhaps more difficult than changing a clutch. It was so awkward. I started off undoing the bolts and holding the allen key side still with an allen key, and found the easiest way to get it going was to hold the wheel on the steering lock to undo the bolt. Then I came to do the other bolt, but of course the wheel had to be in a different position to the steering lock, so I held the wheel in place by wedging a hammer between the central spoke and the dash. When it occured to me that you can get great access to the top bolts through the footwell, I thought great, putting the new disk on wont be as hard. Having said that, I had to grip the allen key side of the bolts using an allen key, monky-wrenched to something under the car, in order to keep that still as I did up the bolts from inside the car etc. Also, I don't know whether this is normal, but the new disks just come as a disk, with no rivetted in bolts or splined attatchment for the rack. I had to get the bolts from a local tractor spares shop (locktighted type as recomended by local BX specialist). I also had to hammer out the rivetted splined grip for the rack, bolt it onto the new disk, then cut off the excess bolt length. I was shoked at the state of the old disk. It was split right from the edge to the center in two places (each side of where a bolt went through). Even by hand, you could turn the steering wheel end and watch the rack end stay still after I had taken it off. It was so so dangerous. Luckily, it has cured the directional instability of the car, and the steering wheel feels very in touch with the road surface now.
Id recomend that anyone who feels a bit of play in the steering of their BX to check this disk.
