Speedometer needle wobble

[Wooscary]

I don't think this is going to help the poor male part with its self esteem.

[Mickey taker]

only a meal one Matthew , dont think a plastic or wooden one would be much good

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oh I so hate my phone !!!!!

[Vanny]

This 'Fix' worked every time at the main dealers.
Disconnect the cable behind the engine and poke a bit of welding rod into the female hole. Measure/mark this length. Compare this length to the male part of the cable and subtract. Snip the welding rod to suit (Effectively taking up all she slack between the two driven cables) drop your bit of welding rod down the female hole and refit.
Wobble gone- guaranteed!

I tried this last night, and can report i no longer have a wobbly speedo because the speedo is no longer registering anything

Will investigate and report back.

[BX-pert]

The only difference I can conceive is that we were working with virtually new cars, with virtually new cables. If your cable drives are now practically circular instead of the original square section then I don't know the fix. However, our fix WORKED.

[citronut]

The only difference I can conceive is that we were working with virtually new cars, with virtually new cables. If your cable drives are now practically circular instead of the original square section then I don't know the fix. However, our fix WORKED.

in this case the only fix would be a new or better condition cable,

regards malcolm

[Vanny]

Well the lower cable was pretty new, and having plastic output is still plenty square. This 'fix' is likely to be very expensive. Have a good (3 month old) upper cable I might try later.

[citronut]

other cause's of speedo twitch are the lower cable bin to close to the exhaust (discolouration r melted outer sleave),
or the cable has bin fitted in the wrong route so bent in to tight a curve,

regards malcolm

[BX-pert]

It's important to get the measurement of the 'bit of welding rod' right, It needs to just take up all the slack without having to force the joint closed again, and make sure it's a big enough diameter rod to be a nice drop fit in the hole. If you've cut your rod with side cutters, allow enough to dress the end square again with a file, aside from that, I swear it worked every time. I'd even do it to cars where the owner hadn't actually complained of the problem, but if that speedo wobbled on road test, I knew a quick, cheap fix. All part of the service! I must have fixed well over a hundred like that, and not one customer ever came back complaining the problem reoccurred (or they missed their wobble!)

[Vanny]

Well i took the pin out and the speedo has returned to its normal wobble (slight at 30, non at 70).

While it wasn't the most careful measurement (i certainly didn't get the vernier out), it wasn't so long as to make the joint difficult to close. The pin was from a welding rod, i think its a 6mm rod (obviously its smaller without all the magical splatery stuff on it).

I thought it was mean't to take up some of the slack in the winding of the inner coil, but there doesn't seem to be a very clear 'stop' inside the coil. Which makes me think it would stop the bottom of the coil from tightening when it first starts, effectively gripping on the pin rather than collapsing.

I can't actually see how adding a pin would stop the upper section from rotating. The plug is about 15mm long and the socket around the same, so even with an overly long pin it would only press the plug further into the cable, and not stop the speedo working at all.

I might visit it again if someone else can independently show the idea works, for now i'll just learn to live with my slight flutter.