WINDOWS

tim leech · Post by **tim leech** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:20 pm

Guys the passenger window on my TZD doesnt work, well it winds up but wont wind down, no probs I thought so Ian lent me a spare motor and a spare switch.

Ive swopped the both tonight with the help of tim 2cv (ta mate) and its made sod all difference, Ive tried two more switches which I know work as they do I my 16v and still nothing! The passenger window switch from the driver door doesnt do a thing either (up or down) and ive tried a working switch on that too! Ive had the motor off to make sure it wasnt sticking but both motors only work one way!

We had BOTH door panels off to check its all connected up and everything is as it should be!

You can see the interior lights dim when i try and raise the window even though its a full height but when I try and lower it it doesnt flicker??

Tim and I then took it for a run where it drove faultlessly, I turned it off and went to start it again immediatly afterwards and now it wont start! It turns over fine but wont fire! HELP!

Ive treid waiting for the glowplug even though its warm and that made sod all difference.

Is there a fuel cut off switch on these? It feels like its not getting any.

cavmad · Post by **cavmad** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:35 pm

Tim, I`d be willing to bet the passenger door electric window problem will be down to the wiring on the driver`s door. It`s a common fault (one of mine had done it). You need to pull back the casing which houses the wiring (about 2/3rds of the way up iirc) and quite likely you`ll find one of the wires has been stretched over the years and is either earthing out and/or has a break in it. This DOES effect the passenger door window, trust me!

Ian_Fearn · Post by **Ian_Fearn** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:39 pm

cavmad wrote:Tim, I`d be willing to bet the passenger door electric window problem will be down to the wiring on the driver`s door. It`s a common fault (one of mine had done it). You need to pull back the casing which houses the wiring (about 2/3rds of the way up iirc) and quite likely you`ll find one of the wires has been stretched over the years and is either earthing out and/or has a break in it. This DOES effect the passenger door window, trust me!

.... and there was me thinking you were going to tell Tim to THRASH it round the block to clear the problem!!

tim leech · Post by **tim leech** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:40 pm

OK mate thanks for that I will have alooky tomorrow, if I can get the bastard thing started.

I Know why its misbehaveing, shes got used to being polished, and titivated and having a 16v to keep company with and knows im selling her!

I can have a car for months and it runs perfectly, I come to sell it and it throws its toys out the pram!

tim leech · Post by **tim leech** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:44 pm

Lol it had a good bootful this evening with tim2cv and it went very well. So its not thats the problems.

Ian what you doing tomorrow night? Fancy coming over and casting your expert eye over it?

sleepy0905 · Post by **sleepy0905** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 pm

That is the exact fault my tgd started with at first then failed completely it was down to 5 broken wires in the trunking from the drivers door to the body it took some delicate splicing to rectify the fault but i got a good section of loom from a breakers then carefully sliced it in never had another problem infact you have reminded me i must check the TZS to see what condition that one is in an rectify any faults before anything fails.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:07 pm

If you can't get the motor to go both ways when its off the car - and presumably with a supply other than the door supply - then neither motor is working. I believe there is an overload switch in there - something is shown in Haynes - and I know I've had it cut out - but there is only one of them and so if the motor works one way and not the other this can't be to blame.

If the motor does work both ways - then the car wiring is at fault - and the Driver's door carries most of it. A favorite problem is breakages where the wires pass through the trunking into the doors.

Don't know why the car won't go. Worth checking the supply to the stop solenoid (don't think its fused) and the solenoid itself. Sounds like a fuel problem - or lack of it - especially if no smoke is coming out of the exhaust.

tim leech · Post by **tim leech** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:08 pm

Its strange jeremy thats the car rand PERFECTLY for a good hour, I turned it off then nothing in a space of seconds!

Where abouts its the stop solenoid ?

sleepy0905 · Post by **sleepy0905** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:12 pm

tim thats what my tgd did we had just got home from shopping unloaded then i had to go out I got in and nothing would not start after a bit of digging i took the stop solonoid out removed its plunger and put it back in a bingo away it went Ok i had to stop it with the stop lever on the pump but i replaced the solonoid which cured the problem.

The stop solonoid is on the diesel pump and has a single wire to it it is about an inch in diameter.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:19 pm

Stop solenoid is on the injection pump - and will have an electrical connection. If its a Roto-diesel its on the top right corner looking in from the front. Bosch is on the face in the centre of the engine above the high pressure pipes to the injectors. Operates through a plunger - remove plunger and engine goes. There are stop levers on the pumps - you may be able to tie something onto it and pull it without opening the bonnet to stop the engine.

I've seen them in accessory shops for about £20.

cavmad · Post by **cavmad** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:20 pm

Ian_Fearn wrote:
cavmad wrote:Tim, I`d be willing to bet the passenger door electric window problem will be down to the wiring on the driver`s door. It`s a common fault (one of mine had done it). You need to pull back the casing which houses the wiring (about 2/3rds of the way up iirc) and quite likely you`ll find one of the wires has been stretched over the years and is either earthing out and/or has a break in it. This DOES effect the passenger door window, trust me!
.... and there was me thinking you were going to tell Tim to THRASH it round the block to clear the problem!!

Hooray, I knew something technical, is this a first? I should add Tim that after you`ve checked the wiring you should take it round the block and give it a damn good thrashi.....

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 11:04 pm

I thought it was a first too.

"Cavmad posting in the technical section"

Post by **docchevron** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:15 am

My TD has exactly the same window problem and has had for ages. It's dropped an earth somewhere but I haven't yet worked out where.

The stop solonoid works though and it does start but has a cracked head......

New head arriving tomorrow though so that'll sort that...
If I ever cure the passenger window I'll let you know!

Cheers
Chris G

Barnsley BXer · Post by **Barnsley BXer** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 6:46 am

ken newbold wrote:I thought it was a first too.

"Cavmad posting in the technical section"

Keep up Ken,Cavmad's posted lots of things in the technical section lately.Most involve thrashing the car to within an inch of it's life

But he's posted more than me.Then again silliness is my forte,I leave the technical stuff for them that knows better

ellevie · Post by **ellevie** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:29 am

I had one of these where the passenger window would wind down but not up and the drivers switch had no effect at all. I couldn't lift the window up by hand but was able to raise it by temporarily reversing the wires to the motor so that it would only go up instead of down. In my case the problem turned out to be high resistance in the passenger switch. I was able to clean the switch contacts using a thin strip of paper and some WD40. The contacts were accessible through the small slots on the side of the switch. I suppose the passenger switch gets very little use compared with the driver's and therefore the contacts are more likely to collect dust or tarnish.