Is my driveshaft shafted??

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Is my driveshaft shafted??

Post by BX Bandit » Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:17 pm

I've had to replace the OSF whel bearing cos it was screaming like beeyatch but there also an additional rumble (speed related) which may have been something else. I have found that the outer CV has play between forward and backwards rotation....is this necessarily knackered? Whilst I'm under the car with the front o/s in bits I'd thought I'd check the intermediate drive shaft and bearing....although I've read up on how to do it (thanks to you guys on this very forum) but what are the indications of failure/excessive wear on these bits?

GSF don't do an intermediate bearing, just in case I need one, any idea where to get one from?

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Stewart (oily!)
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Post by Stewart (oily!) » Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:44 pm

I just went to a bearing supplier with the number, under a fiver AFAIR, you need to cut the ring off to remove the old one, then I raised a major burr on the shaft using a chisel to prevent the new bearing from moving, done 20k like that now.
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Post by jeremy » Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:57 pm

If the outer joint isn't knackered now it soon will be. Does it make a regular noise when the wheel is on full lock?

tim leech

Post by tim leech » Wed Jan 03, 2007 5:16 pm

Mine clicks like a swine when its n lock.

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Post by BX Bandit » Wed Jan 03, 2007 5:22 pm

Stewart (oily!) wrote:I just went to a bearing supplier with the number, under a fiver AFAIR, you need to cut the ring off to remove the old one, then I raised a major burr on the shaft using a chisel to prevent the new bearing from moving, done 20k like that now.
Stewart
Cut the ring off? Is that the part of the bearing that fits onto the intermediate shaft? Does the bearing not pull/push on/off with a drift or similar precision tool??

There's no knock on full lock Jeremy but we hit a bloomin big pothole last night on that side so if it did do damage to the cvj we didn't notice it on the 15 miles home...AFAIK it's the original d/s so its done 195K. From your comment I'm guessing I may as well replace wit now while its in bits??
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Post by jeremy » Wed Jan 03, 2007 6:50 pm

Well that's the point - how much do you enjoy playing around with driveshafts?

I doubt if hitting bumps will damage driveshafts. They don't carry any suspension loads - only drive torque.

I would expect the middle bearing to slide on - probably with some encouragement from a hammer or two and some odd bits of scrap metal - all applied by a precision operator! The outer part of the new bearing should NOT be struck as this may damage the balls/races - causing rapid wear and noise. Any force necessary should be applied to the centre.

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Post by BX Bandit » Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:35 pm

Well that's the point - how much do you enjoy playing around with driveshafts?
Erm...as much as the next bloke :shock:
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Post by docchevron » Thu Jan 04, 2007 2:46 am

If theres play in the outer joint then aye, change the shaft! A replacement shaft will of course also come with a intermediate bearing!

The bearing is easy to change, as said, cut the old one off, then get a long length of tube big enough to slide over the shaft and tap the new bearing in. As Jeremy said though DO NOT hit the outer race of the bearing!

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Post by adamskibx » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:54 am

Id say replace the shaft with a new one, as that will solve your bearing change issue at the same time. Id say that noticable play forward to reverse renders the shaft knackered as mine clicks sometimes in low speed traffic, but even that doesn't seem to have any feelable play.. Mind you its hard to tell as most of the play will happen in the gearbox anyway as its hard to keep the shaft still.

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Post by BX Bandit » Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:48 pm

Thanks guys, the intermediate bearing sounded ok in the end but on closer inspection of the driveshaft both the inner and outer cvjs had a fair amount of backlash so I've ordered a new one to be fitted tomorrow....
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Post by tom » Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:49 pm

The inner joint wears as well so buy a new shaft.
Vive les UX.

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Post by BX Bandit » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:10 pm

Both inner and outer cvjs were sloppy Tom as you said so.....new shaft ordered...I hope c/w intermediate bearing for £40 odd + VAT so mustn't grumble.....the old bearing took alot of 'Goat Skill' to be removed but I used the lightest of feathers to replace the new one...all nice and smooth now...new g/box oil going in too so she should be sweet as a nut...apart from the clutch but that will have to wait :o
have some balls
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
1990 BX TZD (with A/C) Pink
1990 BX TGD White
2003 Audi A6 2.5 TDi
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue

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Post by Vanny » Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:56 pm

where did you get that from in the end bandit?

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Post by BX Bandit » Fri Jan 05, 2007 8:34 am

I have ordered it from GSF and we had a disagreement about part numbers so I bravely left it up to them...doh! Having checked their website just now I was actually quoting pt no. for the only RH D/S they list which is no good for a TD. So, they don't actually list a RH d/s for TD abs or non abs. He did quote £41ish + vat on the phone for his pt no. so I await very nervously at present. I'll post more info when I have the actual like for like in my greazy mit!!!
have some balls
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
1990 BX TZD (with A/C) Pink
1990 BX TGD White
2003 Audi A6 2.5 TDi
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue

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Post by docchevron » Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:30 am

Good luck mate, you'll need it!

GSF have lost the plot with BX bits.
I got some non-abs TD shafts some time ago, they wern't listed in the catalogue and I was given both shafts for peanuts (seriousley) since the guy behind the counter said they wern't going to stock them anymore and wanted to get rid of what was left. This was a good couple of years ago....

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Chris G
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...