I've got one of those tinworm things....

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Kitch
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I've got one of those tinworm things....

Post by Kitch »

Yup....

Image

This is on the NSR jacking point. I'm guessing its become bent over the years, breaking the underseal and letting the water in. Obviously being a valver, access is limited by the side skirt. I'm prepared to hack away at the skirt to gain more access, but any ideas or info on this area would be appreciated. Right now I'm thinking about riveting a temporary plate in there to get it through an MOT!
Attempting to remove the skirt doesn't appeal.

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Post by tom »

If the skirt covers it, you'll get an MOT pass by rivetting a plate on.
You'll also get a reputation as an unscrupulous bodger, so don't. £20 to make sure it is done properly seems a better option, even if it means removing the skirt (which, surely cannot be that difficult?)
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Post by docchevron »

I know its a pain the ar$e mate, but I'd be tempted to weld it properly. If you rivet a plate on it'll "do for now", but the rot already present will continue to spread. Much better for the longevity of the car to hack the rot out and weld a shiny new bit of tin in.
The sill skirts are a total ba$tard to remove. the lower lip is just riveted, but it's held along the top with a continuous seem of bonding glupe, and it's stronger than concrete! a hair dryer can sometimes do the job, or a blow torch, but of course it's easy to damage the skirt and ruin the paint..

However it is possible, just about as much fun as being a spare pr!c£ at a wedding....

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Post by Kitch »

Ok chaps. I am an unscruplous bodger at heart, but the longetivety of my car is more important.

I'd actually be prepared to cut the underside of the sideskirt away enough to gain good access to the sill, as the skirt won't be damaged visably doing this. And I need it MOT'd in 2 weeks time.

Sounds kinda drastic, but I can see something going horribly wrong while trying to remove the old skirt. :(
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Post by roscoe »

i removed the skirts off my 16V parts car using a heat gun - kept it on low heat and continually moving along a section about 2 feet at a time - pulling the skirt and heating with the gun. As soon as the first part breaks the seal and comes away, it goes pretty well - just keep the heat on it and moving. Drilled the bottom rivets out and got both off with no damage. Took about 30 minutes per side, so if I was you I'd do it properly - use silastic or similar to glue it back on.
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Post by Kitch »

30 minutes a side?! Christ, I need to get a heat gun....I spent just over an afternoon with a long home made chisel and a hair dryer!

Got there though:

Image
Image
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Post by docchevron »

Ooh, you been busy young man!! So, er, hows it looking under there??

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Post by Kitch »

Actually it doesn't look too bad, most of it is solid. Quite a bit of dirt and dust too....doesn't go well in the eyes :(

The rotten bit is flimsy and weak though, so next job (aswell as trying to refurb the alloys) is to grind away through all the sealant, underseal and rust and find some strong metal. I noticed dad's GT has already been welded in exactly the same place, so it can be done at least. Just have to find myself a mobile welder to come round next week now!
One third of a three-spoke BX columnist team for the Citroenian magazine.

CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!

1983(A) 16TRS (Rouge Valleunga)
1990(H) 16Valve (Rouge Furio)
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