It seemed like such a minor issue, but...........

BX Tech talk
User avatar
docchevron
The Immoderate half of the admin team
Posts: 7524
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:03 pm
Location: A Bucket of Fish
x 7
Contact:

Post by docchevron »

It should prise off, it just sits in top of the bolt head.

I'm amazed it still has it frankley, most of them fell off after about 3 days from new!

A totally pointless lump of plastic that just gets in the way, in the dim and distant when TFB had the early box (or rather the second early box after the first failed...) I threw the thing in the bin!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
AlanS
BXpert
Posts: 841
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 9:53 pm
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by AlanS »

Thanks for that; puts the mind at ease when I begin to prise it off. I'm probably being over cautious with good reason as these things were never really plentiful over here, so if I need a rare part, it may have to come from as far away as Perth (as happened the other day) which in context is a bit like you having to get it from America, distancewise. :roll:

Cheers for that,


Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.
User avatar
m_2975
BXpert
Posts: 503
Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia
My Cars: 1989 BX 19TRI Estate
1993 BX GTI
1997 Xantia CT Turbo

Post by m_2975 »

Alan,

If you are talking about the swing arm that the clutch cable is attached to, then the swing arm needs to be removed.

The flow divider and pressure regulator need to be removed first if you want to do it properly.

Don't prise anything off. You don't need to. I have just come inside from taking a gearbox out of a TZI in the workshop.

The process I use to remove is:

1. Remove battery, air cleaner and breather hoses.

2. Remove wheels and drive shafts (front on stands required).

3. Depressurise hydraulic system, remove accumulator sphere, remove flow divider and pressure regulator.

4. Take the starter bolts out, take the flywhel cover plate off, disconnect gear linkages and take clutch cable off swing arm.

5. Remove swing arm, move clutch cable out over battery bay, disconnect flywheel sensor.

6. Prop up engine with a jack, stand, etc and remove gearbox mount (both the bolt and then the bolt in the gearbox).

7. Remove lower gearbox bolts (some allen and some hex).

8. Remove top gearbox bolts (back one first).

9. Get under car and gently pull gearbox across to passenger side and manouver it past roll bar (gear change rod gets caught) and gently past hydraulic pipes.

10. Voila!

Putting it back can be also described if anyone wants to know.

Sorry Alan, I don't mean to insult your integrity, just putting it here for others to also reference to.

These instructions apply to the DKZ type engine fitted to BX19TRI-122/TZI and GTI.
My Cars:
'93 BX 19GTi Sedan 5M
'89 BX 19TRI Estate 5M
'89 AX GT(With EFI) 2door 5M
In the Family:
'74 SM IE (Fully Restored) 5M
'90 BX 19TRI122 Sedan 4A
'02 Xantia Exclusive Sedan 4AA
'06 C5 2.2HDi Estate 6A
User avatar
docchevron
The Immoderate half of the admin team
Posts: 7524
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:03 pm
Location: A Bucket of Fish
x 7
Contact:

Post by docchevron »

Ah, hang on a minute! What type of gearbox is fitted to the car Alan?

I was assuming it was the early unit with the push rod relase arm.
M_2975 refers to the later box.
This is important!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
AlanS
BXpert
Posts: 841
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 9:53 pm
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by AlanS »

BE3

It's the one where the cable connects to an arm which pulls across and there is a small pushrod between the end of the arm and the arm that leads to the throwout bearing.
Got nowt done to it yesterday as I was otherwise engaged.


Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.
AlanS
BXpert
Posts: 841
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 9:53 pm
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by AlanS »

Got brave, pinged the plastic cap off and sure enough, a great big bolt looking at me.

Thanks guys, I'm on my way now.


Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.
User avatar
m_2975
BXpert
Posts: 503
Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia
My Cars: 1989 BX 19TRI Estate
1993 BX GTI
1997 Xantia CT Turbo

Post by m_2975 »

The gearbox that i'm referring to is the BE3 that has the clutch fork and l shaped pivot and pin between it and the fork attached. In Australia only the BX 16 valve had the two pronged rod through the bell housing.
My Cars:
'93 BX 19GTi Sedan 5M
'89 BX 19TRI Estate 5M
'89 AX GT(With EFI) 2door 5M
In the Family:
'74 SM IE (Fully Restored) 5M
'90 BX 19TRI122 Sedan 4A
'02 Xantia Exclusive Sedan 4AA
'06 C5 2.2HDi Estate 6A
User avatar
docchevron
The Immoderate half of the admin team
Posts: 7524
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:03 pm
Location: A Bucket of Fish
x 7
Contact:

Post by docchevron »

Ok, I'm confused now, but it sounds like I was right in what I thought it was in the first place, in which case removing the bolt should make the whole release arm come adrift and allow access to the allen bolt.

Er, I think.....! :?:
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
AlanS
BXpert
Posts: 841
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 9:53 pm
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by AlanS »

Yep, it just popped off and the bolt (22mm) came off and off came the arm.
Now all seperated and cleaned up (what a dirty mess that was) :roll: but the latest is removing the head.
Tip of the week IMO should be if you're gunna strip one of these engines that hasn't been touched since it left the assembly line 16 years ago, slacken the headbolts before you remove it from the car.
At present it's a bit like watching 'World Championship Wrestling" as 2 of us try to hold the engine solid whilst the 3rd one is tring to crack those headbolts loose. redx ](*,)


Alan S :wink:
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.
User avatar
docchevron
The Immoderate half of the admin team
Posts: 7524
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:03 pm
Location: A Bucket of Fish
x 7
Contact:

Post by docchevron »

Yeah they can be, er, interesting!

Have you not got an engine stand you can mount the engine on??

I would lend you mine, but, er, you're abit far away for a weekend drive!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
AlanS
BXpert
Posts: 841
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 9:53 pm
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by AlanS »

Stripped her down and laid it down flywheel first, then got 6'5" son with breaker bar and extension to swing off it while I held it firm.
One broke off in the process and the head gasket fell out in dust form....whatabloodymess. :shock:
Deloused all the grease, ratshit and mud off it. Looked at the head which is showing signs of corrosion in places but according to the Messiah (retired engineer/Citroen service centre owner) it will be OK if painted with Rolls Royce gasket cement he has which is 40 years old but a proven formula for this kind of thing.
Ripped the entire underbonnet wiring harness out and will get that remade, will strip the head in the morning and do the valve stem seals and seats and valve faces, drop the pistons and pots out and order the parts first thing Monday.
I'll face the intake and exhaust manifolds as well as reface the clutch working surface on the flywheel and fit new boots to the steering rack while it's accessible.
I'll drop that Mi16 block off the engine stand to make life a bit easier.
All going well, if the parts arrive, I should almost have it back together by this time next week.


Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.
Post Reply