Parts removal, ideas please...

cavmad · Post by **cavmad** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 12:32 pm

...hi will be trying to remove the last few salvegable parts from the TZD hatch this afters. Can someone please explain in layman`s terms how to remove the passenger front door without the correct tools (have the pins part way out but access is tricky), the rear height connector and the subframe?
Specifically what tools are required for the above mentioned job, any problems we`re likely to encounter and any tips for ease of removal?
Thanks in advance.

Stewart (oily!) · Post by **Stewart (oily!)** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 1:50 pm

Keep tapping the pins out, or hold them below the hinge with mole grips and tap those instead, for speed cut the wiring into the door, that stays with the car anyway, with the rear subframe remove the mounting bolts and disconnect/cut the pipes, from memory the height corrector comes off with the subframe but do disconnect the link to the height lever in the car before dropping it, ordinary sockets will do if you dont have a rattle gun.
Stewart

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 1:50 pm

Hi Billy,

IIRC, the rollpins can be a bit of a bugger cos of the access problem. I think I used something like an Allen Key (the right size for the pin!) and just bashed away at whatever bit I could find to hit! A long extension bar can sometimes give you a clear hit. It may be easier to do the top and bottom pins in different directions (one up, one down) but its a while since I did a door swap on a BX. Someone holding the door, or propping it up in the correct position helps bigtime! Don't forget the checkstrap pin either!

Sorry, cant help ya with the rear height corrector or subframe.....never done them!

Dave

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 3:16 pm

If you have an angle grinder (and if you haven't - they are very cheap now from places like Wickes - you need 800 watts or more) you can cut the car end of the hinges off - may mean some cutting of the wings if they are still on.

Grinder is a wonderful tool for rough metalwork - will make visible progress in chassis, angle iron, bolts etc - and you'll find that at long last you can fight back against metal!

Barnsley BXer · Post by **Barnsley BXer** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 3:26 pm

jeremy wrote:If you have an angle grinder (and if you haven't - they are very cheap now from places like Wickes - you need 800 watts or more) you can cut the car end of the hinges off - may mean some cutting of the wings if they are still on.

Grinder is a wonderful tool for rough metalwork - will make visible progress in chassis, angle iron, bolts etc - and you'll find that at long last you can fight back against metal!

I love my angle grinder

Don't get to use it much though

cavmad · Post by **cavmad** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:39 pm

Partial success thanks folks. We got the door off (I`d done one before which was easy) using an old screwdriver blade which got stuck. It was just after it got stuck that I found the door hinge pin removal tool in my box

We also got the rear height corrector off, two rear subframe bolts off (the very back ones which were dead easy) but the two front subframe bolts either side wouldn`t budge for two reasons: firstly because they were heavily rusted in and secondly because we didn`t have the right f*ck*ng sockets to get at them so we left the sub frame in in the end.
Thanks for the tips.

Stewart (oily!) · Post by **Stewart (oily!)** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:54 pm

That means somebody will need a subframe real soon

Did you get the rear rams off?
Stewart

cavmad · Post by **cavmad** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:24 pm

Rams or arms sorry Stewart (and I`m not trying to be pedantic here!)? Couldn`t get the rear arms off due to tools and time but really wanted to as useful for spares.

PiLsY. · Post by **PiLsY.** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:34 pm

Nah...I've been at this 4 days now and Billys done a couple...think we're both just about f*cked off with it now

. Took the height corrector straight off - was only 2*11mm bolts. The height adjust lever had popped off previously, I'd guess when we precisely and carefully slid it off Billy's truck with no hydraulic pressure...

On the plus side, got everything we needed and more (except the boot courtesy light or more specifically the copper L pieces that fit in it and hold the bulb in place - bugger!).

Matt.

cavmad · Post by **cavmad** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:11 pm

Musn`t forget I mended your TZD front panel with a jack and an old screwdriver

PiLsY. · Post by **PiLsY.** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:45 am

lol... Billy's Olde Body Shoppe (one "tool" fits all).

Sure you weren't a blacksmith in a previous life?

cavmad · Post by **cavmad** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:49 am

I don`t know what I did in previous life but it must have been bad to have ended up with my missus

Still can`t get hold of the bloke where the truck is stored mate, bit of a p*ss*r because I need to move a few things about. I`ll hopefully see him or mail him at work though so should be able to pick it up today or tomorrow after work.

PiLsY. · Post by **PiLsY.** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:58 am

Yeah thats fine mate. There's no mad rush to get it off the drive.

Managed to bugger up the stop solenoid on the TZD somehow changing the blower motor over. God knows what I've done. It does die eventually, just keeps running for 10 seconds or so after you take the key out. Found some nastiness in the blower area anyway, lots of insulating tape and stripped wires, plus only have 2 relays on the relay panel under the bonnet, and they're hanging off. The panel that came off the white one has 5?!

Also found some bare wires under the boot carpet of the gti when I was refitting the boot bash plate. They were kinda sparking and shorting under the carpet. What the f*ck do people do to these cars? No wonder french electrics have a bad rep if morons go at them like Andy Capp to a pint.

Looks like i'm in for an evening of re-wiring....

Matt.

DLM · Post by **DLM** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 1:45 pm

If you're in a position to pipe-clip, then the rear arms can come off pretty easily if you have a 24mm ring spanner, a 24mm socket and a breaker bar. IF there are ABS senors on there to salvage, get them off first. Remove the calipers before you get to this point - and save for rehab if looking OK.