Hi
I`ve got a creaking and slight knocking coming from the right hand front suspension leg and when the suspension rises it`s not as smooth as the opposite side , I can`t feel anything loose but it will need attention before the MOT . Can you experts tell me will it need a new suspension leg or can they be refurbrished and prices please .
Thanks Rob
suspension question
Easiest way to fix that is to lube the internals of the front struts - there are threads on here on how to do it but basically involves pulling off the two rubber return lines between the front strut and inner guard, putting them in a small container of LHM and raising and lowering the car from min to max height a few times - making sure the ends of the return lines are always submersed in the LHM. Then pull down the rubber gaitor from the top strut mount and grease the strut shaft (while on highest setting), put the gaitor back in place, and that's it. I do this everytime I do an oil/filter change and it keeps the front struts nice and quiet/smooth. If you are still getting a knocking noise, check the drop links on the anti-roll bar - might be due for a replacement - they come up for sale on ebay or you can get them from GSF and the like for a very reasonable price.
cheers,
Roscoe
1991 TZD
2004 Peugeot 307
1990 Mitsubishi Express Van - Alpaca Transporter
Roscoe
1991 TZD
2004 Peugeot 307
1990 Mitsubishi Express Van - Alpaca Transporter
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Drop links will clatter over bumps if in need of replacement, some juddering on suspension rise/fall indicates a strub lube might help.
Another point: how does that side compare to the other on suspension push-down? (NOTE: best done gently from bumper, or from INNER wing with bonnet open - tops of wings are very prone to minor denting in this way).
If there's limited travel on this side, and strut lube followed by citroaeobics has no effect, then consider a pair of new spheres (Citroaerobic = susp to top & wait for full rise , then to bottom & wait for full fall , then repeat many times....). But if strut is generally slow to rise and fall and jerky to boot, then the strut seals/internals may be shot, which is £150ish for a new unit or pay less but take a chance on a secondhand one.
Another point: how does that side compare to the other on suspension push-down? (NOTE: best done gently from bumper, or from INNER wing with bonnet open - tops of wings are very prone to minor denting in this way).
If there's limited travel on this side, and strut lube followed by citroaeobics has no effect, then consider a pair of new spheres (Citroaerobic = susp to top & wait for full rise , then to bottom & wait for full fall , then repeat many times....). But if strut is generally slow to rise and fall and jerky to boot, then the strut seals/internals may be shot, which is £150ish for a new unit or pay less but take a chance on a secondhand one.
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
Hi
Your replies fit in with the time when it started and that was after I hit horrendous rain from Poitiers to Le Mans on the way to England last October and while with my Son in Chandlers Ford we noticed the stiffness in the suspension.
A while ago I did pull up the rubber Gaiter but saw nothing . So now I know , thanks lads this could save me a lot of dosh.
Rob
Your replies fit in with the time when it started and that was after I hit horrendous rain from Poitiers to Le Mans on the way to England last October and while with my Son in Chandlers Ford we noticed the stiffness in the suspension.
A while ago I did pull up the rubber Gaiter but saw nothing . So now I know , thanks lads this could save me a lot of dosh.
Rob