Camshaft Conundrum

joolie · Post by **joolie** » Sat Apr 28, 2007 10:53 pm

Ok, Im doing my first head job, I took out the camshaft to change the seals, there was a little rust here and there which I removed, kept everything laid out as it came out apart from ONE thing. . . I didnt mark the exact positions of the cams as I took it out. So now Im quite sure its laying as it should but not exactly.

Is there any way to check the position of the camshaft and valves are correct?

Also it seems a bit stiff to put it back in anyway, I dont want to tighten too much and snap another camshaft, should it fit in all snug and perfect or should I expect a little resistance?

Thanks

J

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:10 pm

Set the camsprockets and the crank as you would if you were doing a cambelt change before you start trying to screw the head on or it's pounds to peanuts you'll bend valves.
If set this way, the pistons should be in a position in relation to the valves (and vice versa) so that they won't touch, otherwise, yoiu'd be playing Russian Roullette.

Alan S

joolie · Post by **joolie** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 12:31 am

Im not entriley with you there, im not putting the head in at this point.

I mean that the cam itself was taken out, and now I need to put it back in as it was before. . . how does the actual positioning of the valve, relate to the cams on the camshaft?

Ill take a look tomorrow and see if I can lock it as is I were making a change, I see that you mean there will be only one postion that the pulley can be fitted, then is the locking hole on the cylindner head itself?

If so then I think its solved. . .

Post by **docchevron** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 1:01 am

Er, if the heads off the car, it makes naff all difference which position you replace the camshaft.

It will be tight to pull down, since whichever position you place the cam on the bearings it will be trying to open at least two valves..

Once it's torqued down, you can rotate the cam so the timing hole in the sprocket lines up with the locater in the head, refit to the engine and no problem.!

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 1:25 am

That's the point I was trying to make but left the first bit out.
Just bolt down the caps on the camshaft bearings, but before you attempt to fit it to the block, be certain that the timing marks are set as you would for a cambelt change or else you end up doing as a (very expensive) Citroen repairer did out here a while back and spanner the head on with valves sitting on top of a couple of pistons which resulted in another head removal and another head job immediately.

Alan S

joolie · Post by **joolie** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 9:04 am

docchevron1472 wrote:Er, if the heads off the car, it makes naff all difference which position you replace the camshaft.!

yeeeaahh, thats what I like to hear. . .

I shouod av metioned. . . its off the engine.

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 10:31 am

shouldn't the 'DIST' mark be face up at the cambelt end when putting back together? once bolted up this should hten be a very small turn to line up the timing hole in the cam sprocket and the hole in the black to ensure correct timeing.

Have you got a haynes manual? there pretty good at step by step instructions for stuff like this!

joolie · Post by **joolie** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 8:19 pm

yeah, where IS that f%#/ing Haynes manual, I just had the cam on the wrong way round, thats why it was SOO tight and such a bad fit. . . and I snapped one of those cam brakets in the process. . . but lukily bieng a little suspicious of the Ill fit, I didnt use one from that head! rather one from the old, so nothing lost! heads backtogether and going on soon.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 8:58 pm

The camshaft bearings are line bored in the factory - and so each cap must only be used on that bearing - and another cap is very unlikely to fit properly.

joolie · Post by **joolie** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 9:22 pm

yep, i remembered that from before, it did fit to some degree, but the function was to figure out why it was so ill fitting, which it worked well for.

It is now fitted with the original caps from the head.

Does anyone know the torque settings for the camshaft caps?

Where can I obtain a list of torque settings. I found my manuals, but i havent found a page listing torque settings for parts.

Post by **docchevron** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 12:37 am

I think it's a low torque, about 12lb / ft or some such, I've always just done them up tight! Never had a problem yet. The only cam caps I've ever torqued were on the valver head, but I was really anal about that one.

I've never torqued a diesel cam cap down, if you do it up and the stud breaks, you done it too tight!