lower ball-joint info

[DLM]

In the course of removing a r/h driveshaft, I went to slip the lower balljoint out of the suspension: I've done this on previous BXs to allow enough clearance for arm removal. Mistake!

The ball-joint nut is now a good centimetre lower than it should be, seemingly welded to the thread, and the balljoint itself seems to be rotating happily with it. This happens regardless of how much I support the weight of the car on the suspension arm in the hope of locking the balljoint. Both balljoints don't seem very healthy - I currently have the clunkiest BX at the front end that I've ever owned, so I'm probably looking at replacement in the long run.

Any suggestions please? I realise the following can be tried

• heat - blowtorch?
  goodly application of diesel/loosening juice (tried already)
  Hacksaw balljoint screw-thread above the nut, make good thread and apply new nut (doesn't leave an awful lot of good thread).

Ball-joint removal/replacement seems to involve a tool which locks into the four detents on the collar - has anyone any tips for doing this without the magical Citroen tool?

As for the coolant system leak which prompted the driveshaft removal in the first place, that's another story....

[ken newbold]

Ball joint removal tool. Consisting of a lump hammer and a dull chisel

Never failed yet. But first you must bend in/remove the locking tabs that are bent upwards into the back of the hub. Otherwise it won't budge. I usually use a very sharp small chisel and a 500w halogen hand lamp.

[jeremy]

Cut the nut off - not with a hacksaw but with a cold chisel - held with the blade vertical - ie along the shaft. If you cut diagonally ie from the centre of a flat to the edge of the thread you should be able to split the nut without damaging the thread.

Wastes a nut but of course you were going to use a new locknut anyway!

A sharp chisel will help.

[BX Bandit]

I've only ever removed the ball joint of the vehicle. i.e. taken hub carrier off and placed in a vice. I have the four pronged tool you mentioned. It's best to keep the tool located with the joint flange by putting a washer and nut back on the joint stud after the tool is on...so if you can remove the nut without damaging the stud you'll be in with a better chance. On my 16v, even with a breaker bar and 3 ft scaffoled tube for leverage I couldn't get the b&ggers to shift. But, Sleepy gave me the tip about using a gas torch as they erroneously put a thread lock to secure the ball joint; the heat I guess burns the lock 'stuff'. If you choose to go down this route:
1) I have a tool which you can borrow either post or come collect (by whictime you may as well buy one yourself)
2) Try not to get the carrier too hot otherwise you could mess up your wheel bearing!!

good luck!

[DavidRutherford]

Cut the nut off - not with a hacksaw but with a cold chisel

A plan, but in my experience that only works if the nut is very securely mounted in a vice or similar. The ideal tool for this is a nut splitter. They are fabulous bits of kit.



Place the loop over the nut in question, and just wind up the splitter. After a while, there will be an almighty crack. Now remove the splitter, and apply 180 degrees from where you started. Wind it up again, and when it cracks for the second time, the nut will simply fall off in two halves.

About £8-£10 for a reasonable one. I've lost count of the number of times mine has got me out of a sticky situation.

[Way2go]

I had the same problem when doing my boots!

Solution was to put suspension on high while that corner was supported on axle stand. Suspension pushes the ball joint tight. Then try tightening nut and wirebrush lower threads before unscrewing again. This didn't grip enough for me so relaxed suspension slightly, wooden chocks under hub carrier and brought suspension back to maximum and this gripped the ball joint enough to first screw up and then after wirebrushing screw off with no damage and a ball joint still able to be used.

PS If this doesn't work for you, I did notice that MDC sell the ball joint removal tool.

[prm]

David a tip that may help ??

Spray arm socket, and tapered shaft of the ball joint with carb cleaner/lighter fuel, to remove any previous lubrication. Lower car with suspension arm supported, rotate centre spindle until it just binds/ squeaks. Insert small open ended spanner between nut and arm and then and piece of strip steel, ground to form a forked wedge to drive between arm and spanner. Retighten nut to reset ball joint, and hopefully, some movement on the nut. Clean any exposed thread, then and gently, ease the nut back and forth with plenty of lubrication.
Toms got my castellated version of the refitting tool if required, as I wrecked the original Citroen one years ago. Now always use a pneumatic chisel to remove ball joints, works every time. Remove one on his stubs recently, no way would you have removed it with a 3 foot extension bar- Locktite version. There was certainly not a lot left it in its original form.

[DLM]

Many thanks to all for the replies. I've been looking at "one I removed ealier" - a whole carrier unit I removed in the course of pulling a driveshaft from a scrapper a while back. Guess I'll have a go at the nut with the nut-splitter - though I'm certainly tempted to get the tool, as it seems to be about £5-£7 online.

Thanks for all suggestions about putting full weight of car onto the arm - unfortunately I've tried this route already and it made absolutely no difference which is why my gut reaction is that the balljoints need doing.

All of this is waiting on a second attempt at curing a behind-the-engine coolant leak. I sincerely hope it'll be third time lucky in a saga of ordering from a local Citroen dealer.

[sleepy0905]

I will also say use a nut splitter I have a few and they are so usefull especially when removing bits in scrappers .