BX Tech talk
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Post by joolie » Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:02 pm

Never made it for the test, I got 1 mile down the road when i noticed a distinct lack of power. . .and could hear odd noises from the engine, the STOP light was illuminated the whole time, and very soon later the overheat indicator came on.

Firstly the injectors were not tight enough, I didnt have a torque wrench or the 26mm(?) deep socket when I fitted them. . . I could see bubbles and smell the fuel from the engine. . . hopefully thats all that needs fixing with the engine, IF the gasket hasnt blown.

The coolant was full when I set off, very soon after it was very low again. . . is that because the thermostat opens and coolant flows into the rad/engine? either way it took almost another 2 litres.

. . .And I found and oil leak when I got home.

ah well, back to the workshop, i re booked a time for the 24th, plenty of time to sort it proper.

Is there any advice on things to check for damage? . . . How to see if a gaskets blown?

oh yeah, that plug from Cavmad arrived in the nik 'o time (2pm! late post), fantastic, much appriciated, i really didnt want to block that radiator drain.
'91 BX MkII 1769cc Turbo TZD Break

running on RME/SVO

IF it aInt BrOKe dON't trY 'n FIx iT.

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Post by docchevron » Tue Jul 10, 2007 2:30 am

Oh bu&&er!

hhmm, right, did you bleed the system very carefully before driving away??

TD's can be a bit of an ar$e to get all the air out.

I always bleed them, run them up to temp (till the fans cut in), bleed again, and again, and again until I'm happy theres no air anywhere.

Ideally if you can get access to a coolant system presurising tool then that is by far the easiest way to bleed them.

Only sure fire way to check for HG failure really is to refill with coolant, bleed it, run it, bleed it, run it.

If you're happy theres no air in the system and you're getting bubbles in the header tank / pressurising of the system / coolant being thrown out of the header tank, it's a fair bet the HG is FUBAR.
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

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Post by roscoe » Tue Jul 10, 2007 1:05 pm

That fitting on the thermostat has a small hose on it that goes into a larger one on the rear bottom of the expansion bottle on my TZD. The large hose has two small ones coming out of it - one to the top of the thermo housing and the other one runs along the top of the rad to a fitting on the left side of the rad (looking at it from the front). It seems to provide a bypass circuit around the thermostat as the housing is drilled inside as well to bypass it. Suggest you check your expansion tank and see where the rear hose on it is - there should be two coming out of the bottom of the tank.
I use a large softdrink bottle with the bottom cut off and the neck built up with gaffer tape to fit snugly in the expansion tank for filling/bleeding the coolant system. I fill the bottle up with the bleed screw on the thermo housing open (make sure heater control is full on), wait till a solid stream of coolant comes out of it, close it, then open the top rad bleeder and keep filling until a solid stream comes out of it as well. I give the top rad hose a few squeezes as well to make sure all the air is out, close the rad bleeder, put the rad cap back on the expansion tank and start it up. As soon as the thermostat opens, you should have a complete circuit for the coolant through the engine and rad. I have never had the fans come on when the car is idling, so usually wait until the temp gauge gets up a bit, then shut it down and wait until it cools a bit - check the coolant level in the expansion tank and top up if necessary. Never had a problem with an airlock yet doing it this way and I change my coolant once a year (it's cheap here!).
1991 TZD
2004 Peugeot 307
1990 Mitsubishi Express Van - Alpaca Transporter