handbrake cable & pinion valve
handbrake cable & pinion valve
with a bit of guidence from bandit, and use of some of his tools,have cured the noisey suspension, changed droplinks, bushes, lower ball joint and because i dropped arm had to change wheel bearings as well
bandit took a bit too much pleasure in pointing out that my handbrake cable was also knackered so this is to be done next.
he reckons its an hours work but me being ham fisted reckon more. have read haynes ia there anything else i should look out for before i start????
what im really not looking forward to do after this is the pinion valve. earlier this year i put a new pump and fdv but still had heavy steering, changed the ram over and no difference. so the only thing left is the pinion valve!!!!
again read this up in haynes and what feedback ive had points to it being a sod. has anyone been here and any advice would be more then welcome.
charlie
bandit took a bit too much pleasure in pointing out that my handbrake cable was also knackered so this is to be done next.
he reckons its an hours work but me being ham fisted reckon more. have read haynes ia there anything else i should look out for before i start????
what im really not looking forward to do after this is the pinion valve. earlier this year i put a new pump and fdv but still had heavy steering, changed the ram over and no difference. so the only thing left is the pinion valve!!!!
again read this up in haynes and what feedback ive had points to it being a sod. has anyone been here and any advice would be more then welcome.
charlie
yes.....
the colour is....
guiness white..........
the colour is....
guiness white..........
- docchevron
- The Immoderate half of the admin team
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An hour to change a hand brake cable!?!?!?!?
Bandit my man, wait till the job is done to have a beer!
They take about 20 mins tops.
Pinions are fiddly to change, but the actual operation is easy enough.
Having small hands, patience and the car VERY VERY firmly supported helps.
Again, DO NOT GET UNDER THE CAR IF THERE IS THE SMALLEST POSSIBILITY OF IT FALLING ON YOU.
Of course the obligatory swearing should enter the equation as with all jobs on cars!
Allow yourself a good three hours at least if you've never done one, and read between the lines in the Haynes. It;s all common sense straightforward stuff really, it really is just the access that makes it a f%^&er.
Good luck mate!
Bandit my man, wait till the job is done to have a beer!
They take about 20 mins tops.
Pinions are fiddly to change, but the actual operation is easy enough.
Having small hands, patience and the car VERY VERY firmly supported helps.
Again, DO NOT GET UNDER THE CAR IF THERE IS THE SMALLEST POSSIBILITY OF IT FALLING ON YOU.
Of course the obligatory swearing should enter the equation as with all jobs on cars!
Allow yourself a good three hours at least if you've never done one, and read between the lines in the Haynes. It;s all common sense straightforward stuff really, it really is just the access that makes it a f%^&er.
Good luck mate!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
You can read a very detailed and extremely well-written guide to changing a pinion valve here:
http://www.bxclub.co.uk/diy/pinion/
In a week or so, I hope to have the correct tools for refurbishing the pinion valve - pressing the seals back on and so forth. It's possible to do it without out, but I stuffed it up and instead of refitting a refurbished valve I stuck a working scrapper back in.
http://www.bxclub.co.uk/diy/pinion/
In a week or so, I hope to have the correct tools for refurbishing the pinion valve - pressing the seals back on and so forth. It's possible to do it without out, but I stuffed it up and instead of refitting a refurbished valve I stuck a working scrapper back in.
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"
- ken newbold
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just read this japanese version to recon the pinion http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~ynar/bxorg_a ... dex-e.html
and me thinks i'll be buying a new one!!!!!!!!!!!
gsf here in cardiff said he'll do me one for £70
errrrr how about three days
charlie
and me thinks i'll be buying a new one!!!!!!!!!!!
gsf here in cardiff said he'll do me one for £70
three hours, bloody hell doc it takes me that long to fit under the car, us mere mortals mate will take a wee bit longerAllow yourself a good three hours at least if you've never done one,
errrrr how about three days
charlie
yes.....
the colour is....
guiness white..........
the colour is....
guiness white..........
- BX Bandit
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Charlie, it takes you 3 days to get you car into the Magical Mystery Garden mate!
Doc:
Indeed, an hour for a handbrake is generous Doc me olde ship mate but best to allow more time blaa blaa when being a 'job virgin'. Having not done one before (but knowing the bottom of my car better than the bottom of my pocket (to coin a bizarre french phrase) then some built in 'swearing/grazed knuckle/siezed nuts' time would surely be no bad thing. Besides, it takes me an average of 10 minutes per tool just find 'em cos my garage is like the yard of Steptoe & Son...
Besides, you must be slipping yourself old boy cos Charlie and me rekoned you'd quote 10 mins not 20!!
Doc:
Indeed, an hour for a handbrake is generous Doc me olde ship mate but best to allow more time blaa blaa when being a 'job virgin'. Having not done one before (but knowing the bottom of my car better than the bottom of my pocket (to coin a bizarre french phrase) then some built in 'swearing/grazed knuckle/siezed nuts' time would surely be no bad thing. Besides, it takes me an average of 10 minutes per tool just find 'em cos my garage is like the yard of Steptoe & Son...
Besides, you must be slipping yourself old boy cos Charlie and me rekoned you'd quote 10 mins not 20!!
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue
We've done a couple and they're not all that bad.
Do it as shown on the Jap site and you will give yourself ulcers.
When removing, be certain the indicators are set at the straight ahead position or the next job you'll do is fit a new guts in the self cancelling gizmo.
Remove the shroud off the steering column and disconnect at the half way mark at around drivers knee height, that allows for the steering column to move upwards. Remove the heatshield around the pinion, disconnect the hardydisc, then unbolt the pinion and lift it out. (As per instructions on the BX Club site)
Take a pic of the pinion so as to see where the seals and rings fit. Put them back in the wrong place and you'll get a chance of doing it all again. IIRC, the one shown on the Japanese site is incorrect.
Get an old "bubble pack" that manufacturers pack goods in to prevent them getting scratched. This is a semi flexible plastic about .5mm thick.
I then wrapped that around the pinion so as to allow those hard rubber looking seals to slide over it as if it were a funnel. Spraying with silicone spray helps here.
Once I had all of those in the correct grooves, I then covered the lot with a piece of this plastic and lightly clamped, again spraying with silicone spray before I fitted the plastic sleeve and sat the lot in the freezer for a couple of hours.
When pulled out and clamps removed, I then sat it back in the freezer for another hour or so to allow the contraction to continue.
Then I sprayed the lot with silicone spray again.
I didn't go on with all the palarva the Japanese site goes on with by turning and releasing and retightening the clamps over s few days (bugger that for a joke) I just went ahead and slid it in, but the secret was.....MINUS the bearing. This is where they made an easy job bloody hard and why they had to get the seals shrunk down to a fitted position. Try to do it their way and I can bet you'll slice some of the rings. Leave the bearing off and ease the rings into where they go using a plastic scraper or a small driver if you're careful, THEN fit the bearing, otherwise you're flying blind.
As you can see, the bearing goes on over the gear, not over the seals area.
http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~ynar/bxorg_a ... /m2309.JPE
Last one we did, it took 2 of us (one working under the car, one at the top and on the bench, just over an hour.
Word of advice; when finished, be certain to replace the heatshield around the pinion area, the small one. On my 16V this was missing and this was the cause of the failure. Too much heat on rubber seals.
Alan S
Do it as shown on the Jap site and you will give yourself ulcers.
When removing, be certain the indicators are set at the straight ahead position or the next job you'll do is fit a new guts in the self cancelling gizmo.
Remove the shroud off the steering column and disconnect at the half way mark at around drivers knee height, that allows for the steering column to move upwards. Remove the heatshield around the pinion, disconnect the hardydisc, then unbolt the pinion and lift it out. (As per instructions on the BX Club site)
Take a pic of the pinion so as to see where the seals and rings fit. Put them back in the wrong place and you'll get a chance of doing it all again. IIRC, the one shown on the Japanese site is incorrect.
Get an old "bubble pack" that manufacturers pack goods in to prevent them getting scratched. This is a semi flexible plastic about .5mm thick.
I then wrapped that around the pinion so as to allow those hard rubber looking seals to slide over it as if it were a funnel. Spraying with silicone spray helps here.
Once I had all of those in the correct grooves, I then covered the lot with a piece of this plastic and lightly clamped, again spraying with silicone spray before I fitted the plastic sleeve and sat the lot in the freezer for a couple of hours.
When pulled out and clamps removed, I then sat it back in the freezer for another hour or so to allow the contraction to continue.
Then I sprayed the lot with silicone spray again.
I didn't go on with all the palarva the Japanese site goes on with by turning and releasing and retightening the clamps over s few days (bugger that for a joke) I just went ahead and slid it in, but the secret was.....MINUS the bearing. This is where they made an easy job bloody hard and why they had to get the seals shrunk down to a fitted position. Try to do it their way and I can bet you'll slice some of the rings. Leave the bearing off and ease the rings into where they go using a plastic scraper or a small driver if you're careful, THEN fit the bearing, otherwise you're flying blind.
As you can see, the bearing goes on over the gear, not over the seals area.
http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~ynar/bxorg_a ... /m2309.JPE
Last one we did, it took 2 of us (one working under the car, one at the top and on the bench, just over an hour.
Word of advice; when finished, be certain to replace the heatshield around the pinion area, the small one. On my 16V this was missing and this was the cause of the failure. Too much heat on rubber seals.
Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.
thanks for the info on the rebuild
but im not sure that im up to it so will just change the valve with a new one,
but first things first, just brought a handbrake cable today and was surprised that i only got one, i assumed that they came in pairs, one for each front wheel??
ive only got a nick/crack on one side so is it ok just to change the one???
charlie
but im not sure that im up to it so will just change the valve with a new one,
but first things first, just brought a handbrake cable today and was surprised that i only got one, i assumed that they came in pairs, one for each front wheel??
ive only got a nick/crack on one side so is it ok just to change the one???
charlie
yes.....
the colour is....
guiness white..........
the colour is....
guiness white..........
- Vanny
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BX 16v Ph2 - XPO - x 82
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THE JAPANESE SITE IS WRONG
Don't believe what it says, the order it shows the seals is wrong, the proof is my exploded power steering ram!
Also, while Oscars report is detailed, theres seems to be a lot of excessive removal. Its not as complicated as its made out, though it helps to be athletic. I can do it while on my back in under 3 hours, but it is fiddly getting the valve out (however actually changing the seals aint too bad).
You CAN split the steering column without removing the lower shroud.
You CAN very simply disconnect the hardy disc and remove the entire lower column to give clearance.
Its hard to do the job WITHOUT removing the exhaust (though on the diesel i can get the exhaust off without removing the intercooler (but its easier with it off).
You can make room for yourself by having the drives side drive shaft out.
You DONT need to remove the rack spring to get the pinion back in, you simply pull the drop link forward and inwards.
Even is you buy a recon pinion you still have to swap them over, which is the tricky bit! I think in the old Haynes it suggests removing the entire rack - Bloody bad idea, you'll never get it back quite right so will be off for retracking as well
Handbrake
you can change just one, but make sure you re balance them. Last ones i got where £3 each so i did both at the same time. You coming the national? i'm pretty sure i have an odd one if your in need?
Don't believe what it says, the order it shows the seals is wrong, the proof is my exploded power steering ram!
Also, while Oscars report is detailed, theres seems to be a lot of excessive removal. Its not as complicated as its made out, though it helps to be athletic. I can do it while on my back in under 3 hours, but it is fiddly getting the valve out (however actually changing the seals aint too bad).
You CAN split the steering column without removing the lower shroud.
You CAN very simply disconnect the hardy disc and remove the entire lower column to give clearance.
Its hard to do the job WITHOUT removing the exhaust (though on the diesel i can get the exhaust off without removing the intercooler (but its easier with it off).
You can make room for yourself by having the drives side drive shaft out.
You DONT need to remove the rack spring to get the pinion back in, you simply pull the drop link forward and inwards.
Even is you buy a recon pinion you still have to swap them over, which is the tricky bit! I think in the old Haynes it suggests removing the entire rack - Bloody bad idea, you'll never get it back quite right so will be off for retracking as well
Handbrake
you can change just one, but make sure you re balance them. Last ones i got where £3 each so i did both at the same time. You coming the national? i'm pretty sure i have an odd one if your in need?
- docchevron
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- docchevron
- The Immoderate half of the admin team
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done the handbrake cable this morning and, suprise suprise for me, all went ok.
worse bit was getting car high on stands to get access to pull old cable out.
and of course rolling about in the dog shit, rubbish and stale beer that collects in the street outside me house
but now am on to bigger and better things.....
the pinion valve!!!!
soooo today i 'ave been deep breathin and stretchin'
and tomorrow i will be deep breathin, stretchin and scratchin me head thinkin
wish i could of gone to the meet but couln't get, but would of only got vanny and doc even more pissed and then kidnapped them until, keeping them pissed of course until me pinion was fixed
charlie
worse bit was getting car high on stands to get access to pull old cable out.
and of course rolling about in the dog shit, rubbish and stale beer that collects in the street outside me house
but now am on to bigger and better things.....
the pinion valve!!!!
soooo today i 'ave been deep breathin and stretchin'
and tomorrow i will be deep breathin, stretchin and scratchin me head thinkin
wish i could of gone to the meet but couln't get, but would of only got vanny and doc even more pissed and then kidnapped them until, keeping them pissed of course until me pinion was fixed
charlie
yes.....
the colour is....
guiness white..........
the colour is....
guiness white..........