tic time not improved

dumbtime · Post by **dumbtime** » Fri Aug 03, 2007 9:49 am

yeah i thought similar as the pressure drop between the inlet and those vents at the back would be quite high due to all the obsticles. What about the BX's i've seen that have glass in that rear panel, does the airflow have easier access to the vent or is there another bit of interior panel covering that?

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:44 pm

I'm sure they are exactly the same - ie the access to the back vents is from the pockets under the parcel shelf.

dumbtime · Post by **dumbtime** » Sat Aug 04, 2007 7:42 pm

I re-seated the non return valve today, and no improvement, I was expecting the bb to fall out but it didn't. I tried the test suggested by DLM again though im not sure what the results mean. When the car was in normal height I stood on the breaks and there was little or no change from the continual hiss with the odd pause. when the car was all the way down and stood on the breaks the tick time went to 28 seconds.

i also tried another test I read on here to check the accumulator which was to turn the engin off in normal height and jump in the boot and the rear rised back up almost instantly. The car also respondes alot quicker to height changes with the new accumulator.

How do I check for leakage in the suspension (cylinders or height correctors or both)? cauchoiskev suggested this to me.

I want to get this sorted but starting to give up.

cauchoiskev · Post by **cauchoiskev** » Sun Aug 05, 2007 11:44 am

OK, so now you can take the accumulator completely out of the equation.

The two leftmost tubes, looking from the motor, are the cylinder leakage and the height corrector leakage respectively. Take a look at what's coming out, but IMO, if this was your problem, the pressure alone would pop the tubes off. Also, when you turn the motor off, the car would drop like a stone (I think yours is about 30mins ?)

You didn't mention if your car had PAS, as the FDV (flow diverter valve) or steering pinion could also be a source of the problem.

Try taking off the operational return tube (second from the right as seen from the engine, a fat one) then start the motor. Have a basin underneath, as the LHM should come pissing out. When the pump is hissing, very little flow should be observed, between hisses it should come pouring out. Don't do it too long, or you will empty your reservoir. This will give you an idea whether the pump and/or pressure regulator are working correctly.

Let us know how you get on...

BTW, did your grandpa really put a new pump on, or a second hand one ?

tom · Post by **tom** » Sun Aug 05, 2007 5:06 pm

Going blue in the face now....
Change the doseur, which is proven faulty.

dumbtime · Post by **dumbtime** » Sun Aug 05, 2007 5:38 pm

He paid £146 for the pump so i guess it was new.

I've just realised that it probably takes closer to 10 mins for the back to go down. So I guess its time to fix the doseur, though im scared I dont think im capable and dont have the funds for a new one.

Yes the car has PAS, I also noticed today that when I turn the wheel all the way from left to right (or right to left) the hiss stops completly and when Ive turned as far as i can turn it starts hissing at me again. Is this a sign?

I'll hopfully get round to checking the cylinder leakage during the week, I've had enough poking about for now, nearly everday this week ive been doing somthing to it and just wana break now.

cauchoiskev · Post by **cauchoiskev** » Sun Aug 05, 2007 5:55 pm

Does your PAS work fine ? i.e. nice light smooth steering ? if so then you can count out the pump, it's not the problem.

As Tom says, the doseur should be changed, but it will have to be for a known good or new one (expensive), and a tricky job for a complete novice. Is there no-one around Bristol who can help you ?

dumbtime · Post by **dumbtime** » Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:19 pm

I think the doc lives round here somewhere, though im unsure if and when Ive got the time to do it and dont want to say "Oi Doc, I never met you but can you fix my doseur on the 25th (thats the only weekend available in my diary)" and I get the impression he's a busy man.

my other option maybe to ask david Rutherford to help me as I can go past his when i go back to southampton uni in October. He was very kind and gave me a replacment rear bumper.

dumbtime · Post by **dumbtime** » Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:21 pm

Oh and yeah the PAS works fine.

Post by **docchevron** » Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:58 pm

dumbtime wrote:I think the doc lives round here somewhere

I do sometimes! Other times I'm elsewhere....

IIRC are you the guy I passed on Passage Road in Westbury a while back??

I'm usually quite busy (understatement of the century) but doseur replacement on a N/A diesel is easy enough, so.... Given about a weeks notice I could fit you in somewhere dude.

EDIT: I dont have any spare doseur's though, I gave them all away!

dumbtime · Post by **dumbtime** » Sun Aug 05, 2007 11:04 pm

Yep it was me!

That'll be mighty fine of you, I'll be free on the weekend of the 25th or possibly the 1st if you could make either of those dates that'll be great.

Do you think the dosuer repair is possible with your help and do you know what the part numbers are for the bits that will be needed? Im a bit straped for cash so wana go for the cheapest option. I guess if your not up for the repair I could ask around here if anyones got a sound dosuer going cheap.

Post by **docchevron** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 12:48 am

Ah, thought so! The old memory aint as bad as I thought it was!!

Aint got a clue about part numbers mate, I've never had one fail, so I've never rebuilt one!

The weekend of the 25th sounds ok, I've got to go to Liverpool, but if I did your car on the saturday, then I can dap up north on the sabbath.
The following weekend is Stratford, so I'll be in a field getting

, again!!

I'll see if the guys at 2CV's have a spare doseur knocking around, if so, the jobs a good 'un!!

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 10:36 am

There are only 3 O-rings needed for rebuilding the doseur valve. They are still available separately (not as a kit).
Note that there are an early 2valve and a late 3valve type doseur valve in use. Difference mainly the internal slide valve counts (hence designation). Spare parts available are exactly the same. From outside no real difference except the endplug, which is flush with the body on the later 3valve type.

08 - 95 638 813 - BRAKE O-RING TOR 42 T1,6 (end cap O-ring seal) 19.15 DKK
09 - 95 495 759 - CNTRL-UNIT SEAL 14,7X14,9-2 (teflon O-ring) 25.40 DKK
10 - 79 03 065 984 - BRAKE O-RING 16,4X19-1,3 (rubber O-ring) 10.00 DKK

You can also get the rubber button and the retainer ring if needed :
02 - 5 424 455 - CNTRL-UNIT RING 27X32-7 (retainer) 31.95 DKK
03 - 95 640 067 - BRAKE PROTECTOR (rubber button) 86.25 DKK

prices ex vat - DKK11.00 ~ £1

rebuilding description here :
http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/Brakes/doseur.pdf

Finally - I've got a schematic coloured drawing showing the later type 3valve doseur valve internals, which I can mail you if you PM me your mail address.

Post by **docchevron** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:06 pm

I assume that early and late doseurs are interchangable??

I now have a shiny (used but tested) one in stock!

dumbtime · Post by **dumbtime** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 9:06 pm

Excellent! Thanks for sorting that out doc.

Lets do the 25th then, PM me your address and what time you would want me round.

Many thanks for the assistance.

And thanks for those part numbers Anders, though I believe I wont need them now, but maybe usefull in the future.