It took a while to find a 27mm tool, looked for a socket deep enough and never found it.
I opted for the 27mm ring spanner. . . it worked well, the injectors are in nice and tight now. . .
Fired the engine up after 1 prime and tested it on the circle road. . . the compression was significantly improved, but unfortunatley not 100 percent.
There is also a whistling noise coming from the engine. my guess is it overheated on the first run and popped the gasket.
The injector seems tobe ticking more than usual, buy it could just be i havent heard the engine in a while.
I got a new 3 notch so ill be swapping it tomorrow.
Looks like another gasket change. . .
Looks like another gasket change. . .
'91 BX MkII 1769cc Turbo TZD Break
running on RME/SVO
IF it aInt BrOKe dON't trY 'n FIx iT.
running on RME/SVO
IF it aInt BrOKe dON't trY 'n FIx iT.
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docchevron
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Waste of time - re silicon gasket sealer.
The head and block need to be checked. The apparent way is to put a straightedge on them - but finding something that is truly straight is virtually impossible - what looks straight will produce different results when for example only one half of it is used.
With practice you can judge some by eye - but its not easy but would probably do for carpentry.
This is one of the reasons why professionals have heads lightly skimmed as a matter of course. The other reason is the sheer time it takes to get the thing really clean - and when scraping the risk is that you gouge a chunk out of an otherwise flat surface.
In my banger days I used to use a carpenters oil stone to clean the face and the block if necessary after removing the studs. At that time I read somewhere that it was common for ancient racing mechanics to paint a gasket with silver paint if its sealing was marginal and indeed I tried this on a Hillman Hunter which I knew needed the head planing as I could see a bend in it. The engine was well knackered but was not convenient for me to do properly at the time. It saw that engine out but as it was on its last legs anyway I didn't drive it very hard.
Success in engine building is down to the detail and when problems arise they are nearly always tedious and expensive.
The head and block need to be checked. The apparent way is to put a straightedge on them - but finding something that is truly straight is virtually impossible - what looks straight will produce different results when for example only one half of it is used.
With practice you can judge some by eye - but its not easy but would probably do for carpentry.
This is one of the reasons why professionals have heads lightly skimmed as a matter of course. The other reason is the sheer time it takes to get the thing really clean - and when scraping the risk is that you gouge a chunk out of an otherwise flat surface.
In my banger days I used to use a carpenters oil stone to clean the face and the block if necessary after removing the studs. At that time I read somewhere that it was common for ancient racing mechanics to paint a gasket with silver paint if its sealing was marginal and indeed I tried this on a Hillman Hunter which I knew needed the head planing as I could see a bend in it. The engine was well knackered but was not convenient for me to do properly at the time. It saw that engine out but as it was on its last legs anyway I didn't drive it very hard.
Success in engine building is down to the detail and when problems arise they are nearly always tedious and expensive.