HELP
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- Confirmed BX'er
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:49 pm
- Location: By yon bonny banks & West Norfolk
HELP
I have managed to break one of the black rubber pipes that lead from the bottom of the front strut to a union on the bottom of the inner wing. The pipe was already broken but in an effort to remove it I have sheared it just above the bulge in the pipe where it leaves the strut, having tried to pull it out from the bulgy bit!. The car is now stationary and so am I(Ilive in the sticks). What can I do? Please!!!
1992 txd
1991 1.7 tzd
1991 1.7 tzd
Sounds like one of the strut return pipes (there are two coming off the bottom of the strut and plugging into metal pipes stubs about 8 inches higher up, on the chassis).
The full replacement for these are only around £6-50 from GSF, with an extra £3-50 for the securing clip ( you should be able to re-use your old one ). I needed to replace the same thing for my last MOT.
N43400A RETURN PIPE BX FRONT STRUT RETURN PIPE-GENUINE 6.75
N43402 RETURN PIPE CLIP BX FRT STRUT RETURN PIPE CLIP 3.00
It MAY be possible for you to do a (very) temporary repair by using a short piece of steel or copper brake piping (about 2 inches long) pushed into the bulgy bit of rubber at one end, and the rubber pipe leading upwards at the other. Fasten with two small Jubilee clips.
It depends on how much of the rubber is left at the bottom, where it joins into the "union" bit.
Hope this helps.
The full replacement for these are only around £6-50 from GSF, with an extra £3-50 for the securing clip ( you should be able to re-use your old one ). I needed to replace the same thing for my last MOT.
N43400A RETURN PIPE BX FRONT STRUT RETURN PIPE-GENUINE 6.75
N43402 RETURN PIPE CLIP BX FRT STRUT RETURN PIPE CLIP 3.00
It MAY be possible for you to do a (very) temporary repair by using a short piece of steel or copper brake piping (about 2 inches long) pushed into the bulgy bit of rubber at one end, and the rubber pipe leading upwards at the other. Fasten with two small Jubilee clips.
It depends on how much of the rubber is left at the bottom, where it joins into the "union" bit.
Hope this helps.
Martyn!
You might be able to use one of the strut return pipes from your "parts" car! As far as I am aware they are all the same regardless of the age or model! The metal retaining clip comes off quite easily, but can be a little awkward to get back on.....try using old-fashioned pincers (like you would use for pulling nails out!) to squeeze the ends together.
Dave
You might be able to use one of the strut return pipes from your "parts" car! As far as I am aware they are all the same regardless of the age or model! The metal retaining clip comes off quite easily, but can be a little awkward to get back on.....try using old-fashioned pincers (like you would use for pulling nails out!) to squeeze the ends together.
Dave
Yes, they are pretty easy! give it a quick cleanup first, then look for the metal band that holds the rubber piece onto the back of the strut. It isn't connected, as such, but has a square bit of rubber where the two pipes join. This square covers an open hole in the strut, and is just held in the right place by the metal band clip.
When you get the old one off you will see just how simple an arrangement it is!
There shouldn't be a lot of LHM flowing through the pipes, but it is enough to leak out of a split. It is only low-pressure leak-off return...not high pressure!
Just be extra careful taking one off your "donor" car. The rubber does perish with age and won't stand a lot of pulling and twisting!! The top ends of the two rubber pipes are simple push fits!!
Dave
When you get the old one off you will see just how simple an arrangement it is!
There shouldn't be a lot of LHM flowing through the pipes, but it is enough to leak out of a split. It is only low-pressure leak-off return...not high pressure!
Just be extra careful taking one off your "donor" car. The rubber does perish with age and won't stand a lot of pulling and twisting!! The top ends of the two rubber pipes are simple push fits!!
Dave
Great stuff Martyn!!!
You can use a couple of nylon cable ties to hold it in place....but the metal clip is better!
Should be OK now, so long as you managed the position the square section of the rubber right over that hole in the strut!! It seems like a bit of a strange arrangement, just covering that hole...but it does seem to work OK!
How's the weather up there in Bonnie Scotland, eh? As wet as we're getting in Lancashire, I bet!
Cheers
Dave
You can use a couple of nylon cable ties to hold it in place....but the metal clip is better!
Should be OK now, so long as you managed the position the square section of the rubber right over that hole in the strut!! It seems like a bit of a strange arrangement, just covering that hole...but it does seem to work OK!
How's the weather up there in Bonnie Scotland, eh? As wet as we're getting in Lancashire, I bet!
Cheers
Dave
You may have trouble with the MOT tester on this approach. They failed mine this year for similar approach and not using the proper clips. Put proper clips on and it passed on this point. They seem to get pickier every year on stupid points. First and last time I use that MOT station though -- it was Mr Clutch.mott999 wrote:Done! however knackered two donor pipes in process! I also had trouble re-attaching clip and so used jubilee clip with square section of original to spread load. Thanks for help, Martyn
1991 BX19GTi Auto
If its only the pipe - just replace the pipe. I expect its stuck onto a plastic stub on the square rubber bit on the strut - so get that off which may mean cutting the rubber with a knife or something and replace it with an appropriate length of thin fuel tube. If you're really keen - glue it on with something - but I don't know what.
Otherwise splice it using a section of steel tube like old brake pipe - or a windscreen washer pipe joiner - and fuel tube again.
Otherwise splice it using a section of steel tube like old brake pipe - or a windscreen washer pipe joiner - and fuel tube again.
- DavidRutherford
- BX Digit man!
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Oh for goodness sake. Some MOT testers really do need a kick up the arse. If it's not leaking, and is secure, then there's NOTHING wrong with it. Next thing they'll be telling you that you can't have any other manufacturer of tyre than what came on the car from new... or any other manufacturer of lamps... or any other brand of wiper blade.Way2go wrote:You may have trouble with the MOT tester on this approach. They failed mine this year for similar approach and not using the proper clips.
I once had a massive argument with an MOT tester about using plastic cable ties to hold on CV boots. They were secure, and not leaking, so as far as I was concerned, they were fine. MOT man said "no, they have to be the correct clips" Well, who the hell is he to say what should be fitted? For all he knows the CV boots may have come with plastic clips. He's there to make a reasoned judgment of the CONDITION of the car, not to make statements about design or choice of material.
I called up the MOT helpline, and they were surprisingly helpful. Whilst they did say that many matters are up to the MOT testers opinion, they weren't in a position to dictate what material clips should be made of. If it's not leaking, is secure, doesn't foul on anything etc, then it's fine. End of story.
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