Citroen zx Diesel
Citroen zx Diesel
Hi all. I need advice on seeral things. I have a ZX diesel and want to fit a coolant temperature gauge. I am thinking of a VDO (electrical) gauge but cannot seem to find a local supplier here in Swansea. I am also trying to find out if I can fit an inlet manifold vacuum gauge (or equivelant economy meter). Is anybody able to offer advice on any of these issues? Any help would be most welcome.
A vacuum gauge will not read as diesels have no vacuum. They work on the principle of free air - and the engine speed and output is controlled entirely by the amount of fuel injected and to a small extent its timing.
I should think your best bet for a temperature gauge is either to get the dash panel from a car with a temperature gauge and fit that together with the appropriate pickup from the engine or to get an after market one with a pod and fit that. Electrical are in some ways simpler to fit than capillary but the choice is yours - as the capillary is more accurate but needs car in installing the capillary tube which must not be damaged.
I have purchased gauges from:
http://www.speeding.co.uk/acatalog/Engine.html
who have always been prompt and efficient.
I found the brackets supplied by TIM do not even fit their gauge and have secured gauges in pods by wrapping the gauge unit with a couple of turns of insulating tape and pushing it into the pod.
How much fuel is your ZX using? I find that high 40's is usual. If its a non turbo you'll have to get out of the habit of driving with your foot flat on the floor and steering for it!
I should think your best bet for a temperature gauge is either to get the dash panel from a car with a temperature gauge and fit that together with the appropriate pickup from the engine or to get an after market one with a pod and fit that. Electrical are in some ways simpler to fit than capillary but the choice is yours - as the capillary is more accurate but needs car in installing the capillary tube which must not be damaged.
I have purchased gauges from:
http://www.speeding.co.uk/acatalog/Engine.html
who have always been prompt and efficient.
I found the brackets supplied by TIM do not even fit their gauge and have secured gauges in pods by wrapping the gauge unit with a couple of turns of insulating tape and pushing it into the pod.
How much fuel is your ZX using? I find that high 40's is usual. If its a non turbo you'll have to get out of the habit of driving with your foot flat on the floor and steering for it!
Cheers for that, I can get around 450 to 500 miles out of a tank of fuel. I have just had the front brake callipers replaced and the tie rods and the tracking has been done (along with new tyres). If gentle with the foot the economy is really good. Is it possible to use the negative pressure fron the air intake to achieve the same ends as using vacuum ?? The pressure sensor would have to be mounted after the air filter but before engine intake?? Is this at all possible??
Cheers for the help so far
Cheers for the help so far
It'll only tell you the air filter is dirty.
There is no correlation between air going into the engine and fuel consumption. On the overrun there's loads of air being pumped around and the fuel is shut off. You have a separate pump driven by the engine to provide vacuum for the brakes.
You could fit an even stronger throttle spring (its already much heavier than that on a TD BX) but maximum economy is down to using the thing for long runs only, making sure the air filter is clean, driving gently and anticipating so as to minimise brake usage and to gain speed downhill rather than uphill.
Why not measure the fuel consumption accurately - brim the tank, note the mileage - then after say 400 miles, brim it again and note the fuel used. You can then work it out accurately.
There is no correlation between air going into the engine and fuel consumption. On the overrun there's loads of air being pumped around and the fuel is shut off. You have a separate pump driven by the engine to provide vacuum for the brakes.
You could fit an even stronger throttle spring (its already much heavier than that on a TD BX) but maximum economy is down to using the thing for long runs only, making sure the air filter is clean, driving gently and anticipating so as to minimise brake usage and to gain speed downhill rather than uphill.
Why not measure the fuel consumption accurately - brim the tank, note the mileage - then after say 400 miles, brim it again and note the fuel used. You can then work it out accurately.
OK so that sorts out the vacuum gauge. Now, the temperature gauge. The reason I want to install an aftermarket gauge is that I found a hole in the radiator after a long drive. It must only have just happened as there was still plenty of water left. However, I had the "RED LIGHT" tested and it did not work!! It is now repaired but leaves me with the concern that there is no way of monitoring coolant temp until it is too late. Hence the coolant temp gauge. Now where is the best place to fit it? On the top right of the radiator is a plug, can this be used to screw in the sender unit? Or should I source a "T" fitting to fit it alonside the thermostat?
Fitting to the radiator is not good, should be fitted to the cylinder head, I believe in place of where the yellow sender is mounted.
However a temperature guage will not necessarily tell you the correct story as I found when the guage was reading the normal 90 degrees and the red light came on too. The red light was in fact telling the truth and the guage was telling the truth - how could this be so? It would seem that there must have been a sediment blockage in a certain waterway in the head because a flush with Barr's Professional sorted what had happened several times in short succession and the red light (& fortunately head) operated normally afterwards.
The guage initially lulled me into a false sense of security because I was more inclined to believe that than a red light which I thought must have had a ponkled sensor.
However a temperature guage will not necessarily tell you the correct story as I found when the guage was reading the normal 90 degrees and the red light came on too. The red light was in fact telling the truth and the guage was telling the truth - how could this be so? It would seem that there must have been a sediment blockage in a certain waterway in the head because a flush with Barr's Professional sorted what had happened several times in short succession and the red light (& fortunately head) operated normally afterwards.
The guage initially lulled me into a false sense of security because I was more inclined to believe that than a red light which I thought must have had a ponkled sensor.
1991 BX19GTi Auto
If you assume that the temperature sensor device is the same - and the object is to measure the water temperature then the response comes down to the quicker of a protective can immersed in water - or a similar can attached to a lump of aluminum alloy probably 12 mm or more from the water with a large lump of steel running through it. Then of course there re things like aluminum oxide (an excellent insulator) and dirt under the bolt.
There's a kit available from TIM (as sold by Speeding in the link above) which will enable you to fit the gauge sensor in place of the existing warning light sensor. I expect there is a 'Y' or 'T' piece to enable you to use both if there isn't a spare blanked off hole on the thermostat housing.
There's a kit available from TIM (as sold by Speeding in the link above) which will enable you to fit the gauge sensor in place of the existing warning light sensor. I expect there is a 'Y' or 'T' piece to enable you to use both if there isn't a spare blanked off hole on the thermostat housing.
I have sourced two gauges that I require for engine coolant temperature and external ambient temperature.
http://www.siemensvdo.co.uk/products_so ... -gauge.htm
and
http://www.siemensvdo.co.uk/products_so ... rature.htm
These are the only two gauges I have found that match each other and are 52 mm. Now the only problem is that I cannot seem to source a retailer that sells them together. I also need advice on what sender units and fittings I may need to keep the original "red light" and run the temp gauge in parrallel. Anybody have any ideas....
http://www.siemensvdo.co.uk/products_so ... -gauge.htm
and
http://www.siemensvdo.co.uk/products_so ... rature.htm
These are the only two gauges I have found that match each other and are 52 mm. Now the only problem is that I cannot seem to source a retailer that sells them together. I also need advice on what sender units and fittings I may need to keep the original "red light" and run the temp gauge in parrallel. Anybody have any ideas....