central locking

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Geoffrey Gould
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central locking

Post by Geoffrey Gould »

Hi I am fitting a new alarm as the old one died, it can do all sorts of things and it will work the central locking but I need a wiring diagram, Haynes I cant understand, it seems to have absolutely nothing in common with what I have got.
It will flash the indicators but yet again Haynes is misleading to say the least. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Geoff.
It would help for the future if there is an easy way to use the 'search' option but I cant seem to work it out. DOH thick or what.
1991 BX 1-7 td Auto.


I MAY NOT BE ALWAYS RIGHT BUT I AM
NEVER WRONG.
prm
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Post by prm »

Hi Geoff,

This seems to ring a bell with Tom and David, and old alarm systems!! Not a TZI??

A great deal will depend on what type of alarm system you have.
Immobiliser, warring lights, movement sensors, auto central locking, electric window closure, tilt sensor etc.etc.

Most of the connections can be made to the wiring under the steering column cowling and any central locking facilities to the handbrake shroud. Wouldn’t recommend central locking, if you also intend using the original set-up.
There maybe several options with your unit for add-on devices.

From the wiring diagrams, you just need to identify and connect, to the outward supply from ignition switch, indicators switch/stalk and the trigger supply for the central locking..

The last one I fitted which had the options of connecting additional interfaces, for windows, locks, tilt, electrical equipment etc. I simplified with - immobilisation of cranking circuit on ignition switch. Indicator warning lights, with output for left and right, on stalk. Door entry – ‘T’ into driver’s door courtesy light switch. Movement sensors were mounted at the top of the windscreen internal trim, adjacent to the sun visor.

You will no doubt require a permanent supply form the battery. There should be enough room to fit the main control unit inside the dash, just above the fog light/mirror switch position.

Would recommend fitting a bypass switch, for the cranking circuit, hidden around the dash area, as some units can become intermittent with a very low battery.
Very handy when you loose the transmitter, or crush it !!. Just ran over one on a Mazda 626. :oops:
At least you can bypass, or hot wire the starter.

Regards

Peter
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DLM
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Post by DLM »

Geoff - problems in Haynes tend to be down to identifying the relevant circuit set of circuit diagrams that apply. The diagrams themselves are the same as the ones I've seen elsewhere - e.g. Revue Technique and use the Citroen material.

In Haynes' scheme of things the logical place to look may be in the Diesel Engine manual, though the labelling of the diagrams found there make it even harder to figure out applications than the petrol manual...

I'll have a look and see if Revue Technique, which does things chronologically, has anything relevant to the Auto, but it may be a few days before I'm online again. I'd be surprised if there's much different apart from the addition of an inhibitor-switch.
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
Geoffrey Gould
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Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2005 7:26 pm
Location: Bristol.UK.

Alarm(ed)

Post by Geoffrey Gould »

Hello Peter thank you for the reply,I hope you are well, havnt heard from you for a long time so it seems. Its a Toad alarm all singing dancing etc. So far I have done the doors, bonnet, boot,fuel cut off,interior sensors. No problem.
The problem came when trying to connect into the indicators although not seemingly a problem when checked with a meter when a live supply was applied the wiring got a bit warm to say the least, very hasty disconnection. Hence the need for a wiring diagram for the indicators, it does not seem to make a lot of sense.
The central locking is another matter if I had a diagram for the unit by the handbrake I am sure that it would not be a problem. But I am a little bit wary because of not wanting to burn anything out. As I said the wiring does not tie up with anything in the haynes . The wiring itself is up to the usual standard IE old and fragile.
Its a diesel auto which seems to confuse matters. diagram wise.
Thank you again I will plod on carefully.
Yours with a Bang.
Geoff.
1991 BX 1-7 td Auto.


I MAY NOT BE ALWAYS RIGHT BUT I AM
NEVER WRONG.
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Vanny
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Post by Vanny »

bring it to stratford and i'll bring the portable soldering iron, will only take a few minutes to get it all working if you have run the wires!
Geoffrey Gould
BXpert
Posts: 546
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2005 7:26 pm
Location: Bristol.UK.

Alarm(ed)

Post by Geoffrey Gould »

Hello Vanny How you doing? Thats a jolly fine offer, thank you very much. Yes I hope to be at Stratford. Seems that you now have a 16V going. Good aint they. Enjoy.( watch your license).
Cheers.
Geoff.
1991 BX 1-7 td Auto.


I MAY NOT BE ALWAYS RIGHT BUT I AM
NEVER WRONG.
Geoffrey Gould
BXpert
Posts: 546
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2005 7:26 pm
Location: Bristol.UK.

Central Locking.UPDATE.

Post by Geoffrey Gould »

Hi update on the indicator problem, it's now sorted and working and I still dont know positively why. 12V into indicator switch , indicators OFF. 6-3V at both NS and OS bulb holders???????No wonder I was getting some confusing readings. Vigarous ups and downs on stalk and it works, somehow I think that I should look for a replacement.
Oh well one less thing to do, until it packs up.
Cheers.
Geoff.
1991 BX 1-7 td Auto.


I MAY NOT BE ALWAYS RIGHT BUT I AM
NEVER WRONG.
Geoffrey Gould
BXpert
Posts: 546
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2005 7:26 pm
Location: Bristol.UK.

Central locking UPDATE

Post by Geoffrey Gould »

Hi Thank you to everyone, its all sorted now.
Cheers,
Geoff.
1991 BX 1-7 td Auto.


I MAY NOT BE ALWAYS RIGHT BUT I AM
NEVER WRONG.
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