Hello All
Just a follow up post regarding my front end noises on the markI..
Reading the advice in the forum, the droplinks or the lower wishbone balljoints are the most common reasons for this problem
However with the wheels jacked up, the droplinks seem quite tight and not obviously slack. (Havent yet levered the lower BJ's yet ) But when i was under there, it appeared as though the track rod end ball joints knock when you twist them. There is no play in them and I'm not sure that this twisting movement ever happens in the normal course of driving. However there IS play/slack at the other end of these tie rods at the steering rack end. A bit of research confirmed that this end has a ball joint knuckle on it. I am thinking that the combination of this slack and the knock from the connected track rod BJ is to blame?
The car has had a new steering rack fitted, it may also be possible that it wasn't connected/reinstalled correctly if there are shims and spacer thingies within the knuckle ball joint assembly.
Question..Should I be suspecting this as the source of the noise ? Is it a component that does wear? Or do I stick with the established causes (droplinks even if they show no obvious signs of wear)
Thanks in advance BXers
front end knocks
front end knocks
Current
85 BX GT Mk1..
86 BX TRS Mk1
87 BX TRi
Gone
85 BX TRS mk1 auto... SOLD
90 BX TRi..parts....cubed
85 BX GT Mk1..
86 BX TRS Mk1
87 BX TRi
Gone
85 BX TRS mk1 auto... SOLD
90 BX TRi..parts....cubed
The droplinks rarely show any regular slack when tested by hand on free dangling wheels. But they can still make an awfull lot of noise during drive.
They are not expensive (some £25/ea). if you are on low budget try one side to hit your luck while saving the old one. If you miss, then move the new one to the opposite side
Regarding the steering rack there are 2 balljoints in the tierod. The obvious outer one which can be forced around quite a bit in all planes. But no slack is allowed.
The inner balljoint is a separate component much the same function.
Both balljoints normally lasts quite well on the BX, but are known wear items, rather easy to replace as DIY.
The outer one is an assembly with the long bar and balljoint on outer end.
On the inner end the bar has a threaded hole to take the inner balljoint threaded pin. These threads are locked to each other by way of a locknut torqued against the outer bar.
The steering tracking is prescisely set by how much you wind in the threads before torqueing the locknut.
Its therefore very important to accurately keeping track of how far (as little as possible) you loosen the locknut, as the tracking will match when the new outer rod is winded up against the locknut by hand.
The inner balljoint is a bit more delicate to replace. First the outer tierod is winded off as described above. Then you take a note on the accurate length of exposed threads before removing the locknut.
Finally you must remove the gaiter to acces the flat on the rack end to counter hold when removing the inner joint.
There are no shims etc. to set any clearances. Only a star washer in some cases or in other cases a washer peened down to lock the thread.
They are not expensive (some £25/ea). if you are on low budget try one side to hit your luck while saving the old one. If you miss, then move the new one to the opposite side
Regarding the steering rack there are 2 balljoints in the tierod. The obvious outer one which can be forced around quite a bit in all planes. But no slack is allowed.
The inner balljoint is a separate component much the same function.
Both balljoints normally lasts quite well on the BX, but are known wear items, rather easy to replace as DIY.
The outer one is an assembly with the long bar and balljoint on outer end.
On the inner end the bar has a threaded hole to take the inner balljoint threaded pin. These threads are locked to each other by way of a locknut torqued against the outer bar.
The steering tracking is prescisely set by how much you wind in the threads before torqueing the locknut.
Its therefore very important to accurately keeping track of how far (as little as possible) you loosen the locknut, as the tracking will match when the new outer rod is winded up against the locknut by hand.
The inner balljoint is a bit more delicate to replace. First the outer tierod is winded off as described above. Then you take a note on the accurate length of exposed threads before removing the locknut.
Finally you must remove the gaiter to acces the flat on the rack end to counter hold when removing the inner joint.
There are no shims etc. to set any clearances. Only a star washer in some cases or in other cases a washer peened down to lock the thread.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak