Matrix Reloaded??

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ed4ferrets
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Matrix Reloaded??

Post by ed4ferrets » Wed Nov 02, 2005 9:58 pm

Methinks the heater matrix or something related may have sprung a leak. Symptoms are coolant needing regular topup, vapour appearing on passenger side windscreen and today I found passenger carpet to be sodden :shock:. There is no sign of water dripping under the car at any time. Am I on the right track and what is the solution :roll: ?

The other niggle is when removing rad cap even after standing for a couple of hours there is distinct pressure in the system..... does this sound right?
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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold » Wed Nov 02, 2005 10:23 pm

Yes Ed you're on the right track, if it is the matrix thats gone you're looking at a new one and it does sound like it.

Some BXs do seem to pressurize the system the question is how much?

Is the rad getting hot all over?
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ed4ferrets
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Post by ed4ferrets » Wed Nov 02, 2005 10:41 pm

Ken, the rad does get hot all over & is relatively new, just thought all pressure would dissipate when cool!

I have a spare matrix still sat in another bx, what sort of job is it on a scale of 1 to 10, any tips to make it easier etc?

Swopped heater fans over today as mine worked only when it wasn't needed!
Very quick and easy but I reckon the matrix might make up for that!!
Marty said: "Take some small comfort from the fact that the driver of the other car, having failed the breath test will even now be in a little cell, with luck they will double him up with some mean bastard who will be tattooing a fandango on his arse"

'94 XM 2.1TD Break
'99 Xantia 1.9TD Break (almost there)
'63 Renault Caravelle

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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold » Wed Nov 02, 2005 10:53 pm

Ed, the matrix aint no bad job really 4/10 ages since I've done one, think you need to lower steering column and move aside to get it out.
Cant remember if they damage on removal (I know XM does) but it wont cost anything to try. :)
It will cost about £35 for a new one. :(
I would normally fill water to correct level when engine is hot thus allowing for expansion.
There is a tendancy to overfill 19D rads.
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Oscar
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Post by Oscar » Thu Nov 03, 2005 10:58 am

I have this job coming up too - but we have forestalled it by adding a bottle of radweld in time. Have you tried this?

I've done this job on a ZX and it's long, fiddly and detailed. A BX may be more accessible. With the zed, it was a dashboard out and back in again, taking 12 hours over a weekend. My first ever maintenance job on a car.

To make it easier, I read the Haynes manual in order and marked up the pages in the order I would need them, as often they cross-refer to each other (i.e. “now take out the dooberifirkin as described in section 3.2.1.5.7 (see appendix)” and when you get to section 3.2.1 it refers you to section 8.9.6 etc. etc.). As I progressed through the job, I made very complete notes of what I did when and how. This served as a guide to reinstalling. It will help if you describe what sort of bolts, screws you are removing from where, as you will come across a wide variety of nearly-interchangeable torx-, phillips- and slot-headed screws etc., and if you can keep them seperately in old margarine tubs or glass jars.

Don’t forget to service the fan motor once you’ve got it out – see Tom’s notes. At the very least, give it a very good spray with WD40 and let it dry off before putting it back in, as chances are it will be damp (my fan motor casing holds about 2 pints of water!).

It’s not technically very demanding, just a lot of taking things apart and putting them back together again. A very patient helper who makes good tea will be a bonus.
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Oscar
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Post by Oscar » Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:36 am

Jon that is hugely reassuring, frankly the thought of doing it all over again was giving me the willies.
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stuart_hedges
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Post by stuart_hedges » Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:28 pm

Water cooling is A Very Bad Thing. I've changed the rads in a Rover P6 and a Citroen CX, and flushed the rad on Pugs 309 and 106. My old Saab 99 used to overheat because the fan wasn't working (corroded fusebox leading to part-time electrics all round).

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mnde
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Post by mnde » Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:37 pm

Pah, who needs water cooling...?

;-)

An aircooled BX...

Wonder if anyone's ever considered stuffing a GSA engine and front subframe in a BX... might be interesting when it comes to the question of gearbox mounts... :? amongst other hindrances!

But you wouldn't need no friggin' heater matrix!! :lol:

Mark.
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stuart_hedges
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Post by stuart_hedges » Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:44 pm

I reckon that would be a sweet car, Mark. BX's are supposed to be lighter than G's, and I just love that engine. There's a Mk 1 BX with a knackered engine on ebay at the moment, fancy giving it a go?

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Philip Chidlow
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Post by Philip Chidlow » Thu Nov 03, 2005 2:25 pm

And there must be a few knackered GS's out there with OK engines.

This I'd like to see.
• COMING SOON... 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo Hurricane
• COMING SOON... 1998 Citroen Xantia 2.0 16v auto Exclusive
• Xsara Picasso 1.6 16v
and some Ford tat lol

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stuart_hedges
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Post by stuart_hedges » Thu Nov 03, 2005 2:35 pm

I wonder if the guy who bought Sophie would sell us her engine? That car was a scrapper, believe me. I still feel guilty about selling her, to be honest. The engine was the only half-decent thing on it.

http://www.geocities.com/stuart_hedges/cars/nbh.htm

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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold » Thu Nov 03, 2005 6:51 pm

Two and half hours sound right for the job all in. Two and half weeks for the carpets to dry out..

As for ZXs most end up in the yard when heater matrix fails.

Get stuck-in Ed, no worries. :)
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Post by Mr B » Thu Nov 03, 2005 8:35 pm

Pedal box comes out in about 10 minutes, held in with 4 (I think) 11m/m bolts and 2 Allen bolts. The clutch cable is a bit of a pain to disconnect so you might as well replace it while its off, the brake cylinder stays in its place with the pedal box removed.
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